And what will I need to replace the whole thing? It's off my 68 dodge coronet.

Here's a pic of the drums I have now. . . https://i.imgur.com/3dEyZ.jpg



I found some front 10x 2.5 drums on rock auto for $70. Lots cheaper than other places.

I know it comes without the center hub section, so are these the composite drums?

If I'm going to buy all new parts for the front drums, what all do I need to buy?

I've already got the pads, the fastener kit (shoe nails, etc), and the wheel cylinders, but what do I need to replace the entire drum assembly?

I'm trying to figure out how much more I'd need to do, as opposed to getting a disc swap kit.

Also, do they make a disc swap kit for the front end, that can be used with manual Master Cylinder, or will I have to get the power booster and vacuum can and all that?

If it does come out to too much, I'm going to have to bite the bullet and just do the disc brake conversion for the front end.

 

look at mitsbichu -97 japan, the faster cars.. (spell?) front weel brakes, they have 4.5 circle air-disk and 6 cylinder brembo..you get a fu***ng graet brakes.

 

To install the new drum on your existing hub.....

1) - Find a firm flat surface to work on. A driveway with a piece of cardboard would suffice.

2) - Use a punch and a hammer to knock the existing studs out of the hub and this will release the drum from the hub.

Note: It would not be a bad idea to purchase brand new studs and lug nuts at this time and while you're there, buy new inner wheel bearings with races, outer wheel bearings with races, inner wheel bearing seals and you may as well buy new cotter pins.

3) - Use a hammer and a punch to start the studs back into the drum/hub assembly and then use a lugnut (UPSIDE DOWN) and a proper socket or lug wrench to pull the studs back tight into the hub. You can look and see if you're all the way tight or not.

4) - Remove the existing wheel bearing races for the old inner and outer wheel bearings, install the new wheel bearing races, pack the new wheel bearings with some good grease and and install the inner wheel bearing and wheel seals.

5) - Install your totally fresh hubs/drums onto the vehicle and tighten the spindle nut until it's snug then, back it off a 1/4 turn, install your castle nut and cotter pin assembly and knock the cap back on.

6) - If you have wheels that you can see the drum when they're installed.... paint the face of the drum because, it will rust eventually.

Your total cost for the above is probably $60 or $70 (including the paint), over the cost of your new drums and you did it right!

If your wheel bearings are still good..... buy new inner seals regardless.

I came back to add:
That a 'new' drum, doesn't always mean a 'true' drum. More than not, you will get lucky but, sometimes the drum may arrive and not be perfectly round. If this is the case, you should have them surfaced.

I got a brand new American made truck a few years ago and the rear drums needed surfacing from the first day that I had it at 3 miles on the odometer.

Rick

 

Have you considered changing to front discs?

http://www.performanceonline.com/home.php

 

This looks reasonable.

 

I'm seriously considering changing front disks ..... however right now I have everything I need except the know how for the front drums..why I'm here talking to you guys!

Thanks for the advice.

So are these composite drums? And are these not the drums where the stud head is smooshed flat and ill have to grind the head off to punch it out?

 

Whoa, for $399, that looks pretty awesome!

Are those for mopar brake pads tho? A lot of kits change you over to ford or chevy parts....

Not that I mind if im saving the money, just curious.

 

what about power vs. non power? I guess that's the sticking point for me now. . .

I can totally afford 400 plus a new master cylinder, and be done with it, IF the setup works out ok.

What do you guys think? I've never driven a car with non boosted disc brakes, what is it like?

 

It's a necessity if you have a big cam. Otherwise it is just a personal preference.
I had manual disks on my last Coronet worked just fine.. I liked the pedal feel better.
The pedal will be higher and not as close to the floor

If your good at junk yard shopping you could convert to disks for less than $150

 

Im pretty good at junkyard shopping. . . I dont know how many A bodies in the right year my local yard is gonna have. I like going up to pick a part in the valley (Los Angeles area. . . ) Hmm. . . I might have to take a field trip. . . Which cars would I look at? Volares from the 70's ? It would have to be a non power disc car too, right ? unless I wanted to buy a booster. . .

 

Look up U pick, Pick a Part, and such type junk yards There are lots around the LA area
There is a very detailed parts list for conversion on The Mopar Action Mag web site Manual or power doesn't matter
I don't have the link..

Here it is !
http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/arch...arts_list.html

 

that is one thorough link. . . Awesome man, I'll start doing my homework.