Its been a long time since I dont post

I had this question, last night with my brother and I we purchased 2 440's engines. I'm almost 100% sure that they are from the year 1978.. .
I told him not to buy them but any way he did.. I guess he did it becouse he's into Fords..
Anyway, im kind of stucked now with 2 engines..

Since I dont want 1000+ Hp under the hood of my Coronet, I wanted to ask you guys..

1) what's the most Hp that you can get from this 1978 engines?

I have lots of questions.. I guess I'll be asking them
later..

Thanks..

 

something decent.. let say 750 hp..

Can I get lots of power even with the rumors that the cylinder walls of this engine are ver thin??
I know that with a stroker kit I can get lot of power too, but the over-bore counts too, right? among other things..

 

i have 3 400,s and 5 440, and a couple of them are from 75-78 and none of them have a "thin wall". bored a few 400 .60 over and no problems at all. the440source.com has some info on the thin wall saga. check it out.

 

good thing I have 2 440 then..

what I dont have its lots of money..

I red that every mopar engine has a Demon inside.. you just have to let it come out..

 

well, i guess I cant afford to have one of this cars with this power for a daily driver..
wish I could..

I found some things on 440source that seems pretty good.. but you are right saying "big bucks"...

 

the 400 that you've bored, what year they were?

and by the way, thanks for the name of the web site..

 

well, thats what I knew.. but sportfury66 says that that its not true..

and also I found this.. Im still reading it so I dont know..

http://www.vtunnel.com/index.php/101...85278e40015270

 

why you dont recomend going 0.20+?

 

thats what I red in some magazines that I have. They say that mostly the 69's and 70's engines are the best for doing "what ever you want" with them if you know what I mean..
Theres a kit in 440source that says it would get your 440 to 512 and i'm not sure but I think it says you can get easily 750 Hp.
sorry for all the questioning, but do you think or if someone know's too, do you guys think this 78 440 that i have could handle that?
Im not planning to race in some international competition or something, but i also dont want something "too soft"..

 

Im almost leaving the office now, but for sure i'll get you the info for tomorrow. I dont want to say anything, I want to make sure of what i'm gonna say.
I want the car for both. Eventually I'd like to kick some A...
but also want to drive this car on the streets..
Thats why i was planning to get just some descent like heads, crank, cam, pistons.. try to get some real power from the inside of the engine and of course some "details" on the outside of the engine.

I'll get you the info for tomorrow..

 

here it is..

440 >> 512. (4.250" stroke/7.100" rod)
The 4.250" stroke version of our Platinum Series crank used in this kit has the smaller 2.200" (big block Chevy sized) journals to make block clearancing much easier. In fact block clearancing for the 4.250" stroke crank with smaller rod journals is nearly the same as the 4.150" crank with Chrysler sized rod journals, making this kit hassle free to install, and almost a bolt in deal, just like our 440>>500 kit. This is the largest kit which is still able to safely use a factory style internal oil pickup. Now available for this kit is our new Platinum Series pistons setup for PUMP GAS. These 17CC dished pistons with give a perfect pump gas compression ratio of 9.5 with factory style cast iron heads. Or, with the newer 75cc aluminum heads such as Indy and Edelbrock Victor, a perfect 10.5 to 1, which is ideal for pump gas with aluminum heads. We offer Clevite's "H" and/or "V" series champhered or narrowed bearings to help clear the larger radius on our cranks. See our Bearings page for details on bearing fit/function, etc.

Kit options:
Rings and Bearings package deal:
Add Clevite 77's top of the line performance chamfered rod AND main bearings (V series main bearings and H series rod bearings)
AND Childs & Albert or Total Seal ductile iron Plasma-Moly File Fit rings. All 3 items (rod bearings, main bearings and ring set) are just: $248!!

AND, get all these components PRECISION FINAL BALANCED together for just $150 bucks!

For some quick math, that makes the whole stroker kit with premium chamfered rod & main bearings and rings, all final balanced and ready to go, come to just $1897!! ($1499+$248+$150=$1897!!)

Additional Kit options:
Upgrade to ARP2000 rod bolts: $70
Upgrade to large thrust surface full groove main bearings (will fit 1974 and later engine blocks only): $31

We figure the ratios below with a standard .039" head gasket, which is the thickness of Felpro's popular #1009 Chrysler big block head gasket. All our pistons use the lighter and stronger .990" pins and 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 ring grooves. Low tension or standard tension rings can be used. Valve reliefs are generally good for about a .700" lift cam.

440 >> 512. (4.250" stroke/7.100" rod) Stroker Kits Available:

Bore Size: Dish (-) or Dome (+) CC's Compression Height: Distance Below Deck: 65CC 72CC 75CC 78CC 84CC 86CC 88CC Kit Part#:
4.350
(.030 over) -17
(Dish) 1.480" -.015" 11.85 11.11 10.82 10.55 10.05 9.89 9.74 440.512.5060
4.375
(.055 over) -17
(Dish) 1.480" -.015" 11.97 11.22 10.93 10.66 10.15 9.99 9.84 440.512.5070
4.350
(.030 over) -27
(Dish) 1.485" -.010" 10.97 10.34 10.09 9.86 9.43 9.29 9.16 440.512.5074
4.360
(.040 over) -27
(Dish) 1.485" -.010" 11.01 10.38 10.13 9.90 9.46 9.33 9.20 440.512.5075
4.375
(.055 over) -27
(Dish) 1.485" -.010" 11.08 10.44 10.19 9.96 9.52 9.38 9.25 440.512.5076
4.350
(.030 over) -4
(Flat-top) 1.485" -.010" 13.68 12.68 12.30 11.94 11.29 11.09 10.89 440.512.5071
4.360
(.040 over) -4
(Flat-top) 1.485" -.010" 13.75 12.74 12.36 12.00 11.34 11.14 10.94 440.512.5072
4.375
(.055 over) -4
(Flat-top) 1.485" -.010" 13.82 12.81 12.42 12.06 11.40 11.12 11.00 440.512.5073

 

I still have to search in othe web site the part were it says that it gives 700+ Hp...

I'm sure you guys wont have any problems understanding what I just pasted..

thanks, please let me know what you think guys..

 

joe the last 400 i bored .60 over was out of a 76-77 cordoba not sure i dont pay attention to the car that much but i get the enginesfor $150.00 if you are still uncertain go get them sonic checked thats your best bet. also those stroker kits are the best prices i can find. im going with the 512 kit but just going 30 over so i can re-bore it and get more than one bore out of the block. and gonna put it in a 95 dakota. all you get in the kit is crank, rods, forged pistions. rings, bearings, and all balanced. now $1900 bucks that aint all that bad since you dont have to hunt for all the parts.

 

Im back again, another day at the office..
but learning from you guys. Thanks.
About the sonic check, a friend of mine offer me to do it at no cost. He has been racing all kinds of cars all his life and I have a lot of confidence in him. He is like the father I never had.
About the kit that you are getting, how much power can you get going only 0.30 over...
and if you're planning on re-bored it again, why dont you go all you want from the first time? i think you'd be saving some money right?

and about the price, I think its a good price too.

what do you guys think of searching for some parts in craigslist?? this 2 440's i found them in there..

 

first of all thanks for the help, really appreciate that..
I've tried a couple of cars with 500 hp and they feel
my friend, the one doing the sonic check or something, has this off-road pre-runner and I think it has a LS..something in it with 525 hp and yeah! it feels really good. So now that I know what 525 hp can do, I want to try a little bit more but in the car I really like..

theres this guy in craiglist selling a 440 with the 727 attached for $300.. I think im gonna go for it..

 

thanks.. I will..

 

hey joe glad to hear from you again. the reason i only plan on going 30 over is so i dont waste the block. so when it comes time to re-bore i can with out having to do a whole different block. thats my reason for going .30 over instead of .60 over i may only lose 30 hp if that. theres no reason i cant get over 500 streetable horses. if you liked the way that 500 hp ls1 chevy felt wait till you get a chance to drive a mopar with 500 hp. hp is hp true. mopars are torque monsters!

 

well, i was thinking.. if you go 30 over now, that means you're planning something else for the near future. But is'nt that spending almost the same amount of money?

the second thing i'm noticing right now.. is, can you go 60 over in this blocks???

and the third question, with this 30 over you say you can get 500 streetable horses, right? but what else would you put in the engine?

and yes, I cant wait for my car to have some really nasty power on the street and track..

thanks

 

im not planning anything in the near future. but if i say break a ring or something else happens i can just bore it again and buy 40,55,60 over pistons and put it back together. pistons will run 600. thats better than 1900 again. if i bore it out to 60 now i will have to use one of my other blocks when i need to build the motor again. id rather just use one block as long as i can. cause they are getting harder and harder to find. yes you can go to .60 over with those blocks. i have a 318 poly block with .90 over slugs in it. like i mentioned before if youre not sure sonic test it. but i haven't had a problem so far with big blocks, ive never gone more than .60 over. had a problem only once but that was a 72, 318 small block. so it can happen i just never ran into the problem with big blocks and i built at least 15 big blocks and 7-8 small blocks. this is my first stroker for my self. second if you count putting one together for a friend. not a lot but more than some.... 500 streetable horses. well that all depends on what you want and what the engine is going in.. i dont know what you want to build your engine for? what year is your car corronet. me im going with a 3000 lb truck. the heads will be just stock 906s for now till i can afford the cnc stealth heads. the cam will just be a hydraulic flat tappet. since i wont push the engine past 6500. the profile will just be around 286/490 just for the reason to use it on the streets and some track also ignition will be / is all MSD, intake is edlebrock performer rpm, torque converter is a acc 2400 stall with balloon plate. gears are 354 street/456 track, water injection to keep the the pinging down at full throttle. and a 200 shot of no2 for the track. . the carb will be a 800 cfm proform Mechanical carb with annular boosters... im not the smartest guy but i will help you as much as possible

 

i'm back again. I red what you wrote last night but wasnt able to answer from my cel phone. I gave a thought on what you said about going 0.30 over just in case something happends and you need to do it again. It sounds very reasonable, not only for the work time but money too.

My friend, were im keeping the engines now, told me that he's almost sure that he can get me a 440 block.. the simple block. He has some clients or something that build this blocks somewhere in Tennessee I think. That way I could save some time in tearing down the one's I have. I red in some maganzine that this engines, the used ones, like the ones I already have, are better couse they're "seasoned" engines.. that they have been warming and cooling down, warming and cooling down, and that makes the block kind of harder, right?
Anyway, what do you think guys?
1) should I start with a new 440 block using parts from the old ones? Or...
2) should I start with a new 440 block with new parts too?
3) or should I keep the ones I already have and re-build them?

My friend already told that he wants one of my engines.. he wants to put it in a Dart or Fury or something and then sell it.

Thanks for your help man, thanks everyone...

and you can see the car that I have on the google link that I have were the signature goes..