So i bought a 69RR roller a few weeks that i plan on restoring, my 1st plymouth im excited! it needs alot of work though, but my uncle is gonna help me with the bodywork, so in the meantime im trying to buy parts for it. the goal is for it to be a high performance car, but still a street daily driver. anyway i have a bunch of questions, but only a couple right now, figure id make this thread instead of flooding the board with simple questions.

1)i was looking at alternators and the site i was on had 3 different types:single groove pulley,double groove, and 1 wire.i think the double groove is for trucks right? my uncle told me i should go with the single, but the site says..
"1969 & Earlier Vehicles Must Ground 1 Field Wire To Fit O.E. Harness
Perfect for Applications with Air Conditioning, Normal Stereo Systems,
and Most Any Other Normal Accessories"....so im guessing i need the "1 wire" then unless i change the wiring harness?

2)i wanted to get a chrome carburetor and so far the best one ive seen is the Edelbrock 1407 750cfm w/electric choke. would this be the best fit for my car? im putting a 440 magnum v8 in the RR and it has the air cleaner housing with the 2 spouts on it, would i have to take that off?

 

Single or dual pully depends on if you have air cond, also the apm output for air is higher. I believe the single wire has as even higher output.

 

Please post a link to "the site" where you were looking at alternators. In the last years "the waters have become muddied" with aftermarket adaptations

Here's the thing:

Original 69/ earlier alternators had ONE insulated field brush, and the other was grounded at the alternator. Many replacement alternators have the 70/ newer setup which has TWO insulated brushes, so you just ground either of them and hook your 69/ earlier regulator to the remaining one.

70/ later used to field connections properly known as "isolated field" and commonly (wrongly) called "dual field" and they used a different regulator which is solid state

If you get a 70/ later hookup, and you find you need a regulator, you can then adapt to the 70/ later regulator by simply adding one wire

A "one field wire" alternator IS NOT a "one wire" alternator. A so called "on wire" alternator is one (may be aftermarket modified) which has an internal regulator, or a regulator "hung off the rear" and is set up to ONLY need the big charging wire connected I don't care for 'em. The separate regulators are easier to troubleshoot, and you cannot get some of these aftermarket regulators locally if hte thing quits working

Pulleys: Many times, rebuilders will install dual groove pulleys to reduce inventory. You can NORMALLY use a dual groove pulley on a single groove application, you simply use the groove that "lines up" with the other pulleys.

 

http://bouchillonperformance.com/BPEalternators.asp
^thats the site i was looking at, there all 75/50 amp

PS:im not sure if my car is a AC car, i havent really looked at the dashboard carefully since part of it is missing, this car is gonna be built from the ground up, theres literally nothing in the engine compartment, so i need a new wiring harness anyway.

 

OK, what they are calling a "one wire" unit is an aftermarket modification. They have basically strapped a small, aftermarket regulator to the rear of the mopar alternator.

I really don't care for those, as you just cannot buy 'em at a local parts store. They are NOT used on an production cars, and I see no advantage at all to the factory setup, other than saving one or two wires in the harness.

Another thing to keep in mind is the "built in" problems with factory bulkhead connectors -- the thing that feeds power through the firewall. These are causing grief for lots of guys especially with larger alternators, and when adding accessories like big fuel pumps, electric fans, big stereo, and halogen lights, etc

Read this article which explains the problem. This refers to pickups specifically, but your RR is set up the same way

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

I used to LIKE ammeters over voltmeters, but even on my 67 Dart, I finally converted mine to a voltmeter and essentially bypassed the ammeter by removing it

 

@440
What alternator would you recommend then? I wanna go for the show car look so Im looking for a chrome finish.

As far as the electrical system, I'm not going all original. I wanna keep the original dash and gauge cluster but make it a lil modern with LED lights like most new cars.

Most of the dash is still there it's missing some parts though. The car is pretty much just a rolling shell with 50% of the interior. I'm pretty much buying everything for everything so Im open to different ideas.

 

if you use a chrome pulley be sure to rough up teh inside goove of teh pulley so your belt doesn't slip.

 

I know nothing of the reputation of the site you posted, but assuming they are OK quality, there's nothing wrong. It's just that I personally don't care for the so called "one wire" conversions. That site also shows "3 wire" alternators, which would use an external regulator as originally intended.

I always assume people are actually going to DRIVE these cars. Ask yourself, when I'm miles from home, and that specialty regulator quits where will I get one? Is that website going to be in business 2 5, 10 years from now? Maybe, maybe not.

 

Oh yea I'm def gonna drive it, I'm waiting for a Honda to line up next to me lol

 

looking at the alternators the one on the bottom looks like the on i am using on my car. i think what they are talking about is if your car has just the main bat wire and on field wire you have to ground on of the fiel wires to make it work with your factory wire set up. i think they ment 2 wire and not 1.

 

I actually did buy quit a few things from bouchillon performance, pulleys-to remove my a/c ect.. I gave them a call and they seemed to know exactly what I was looking for, I stuck with the 3 wire setup and am happy with the results-I wouldnt sweat the site your looking at-but if your nervous you can always go to summit and have piece of mind its just gonna cost you a few extra bucks. As far as the carb I hear alot of bad things about edelbrock but I have a 750 on my car and am very very happy with it-remember the carb is not easily seen with the air cleaner on so the chrome thing may not be worth the extra moola-maybe put that towards something else--Just my 2 Cents