Breaking in a Cam

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Old 08-20-2013 | 08:47 AM
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Breaking in a Cam

When you break in a cam.... Comp cam recommends 30 min @ 2-2500 rpm...To me the car is gonna heat up pretty quick I would think....Is it o.k. to run it like 10 min let it cool then 10 min again and on ? Just to break it in then change the oil and what have you.
Old 08-20-2013 | 09:36 AM
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Nope. Whatever cam you put in you follow the break in EXACTLY

You are expected to have the engine "ready to run," and this means

proper fuel supply, so not some 10 year old tank of gummed up gas

proper timing, ready to go, so this means you have the timing set ready to fire

Coolant properly filled up and burped. If for some reason you suspect that your cooling system is a "little lame" I would highly recommend that you get a garden hose ready at fire-up with a "misting" nozzle so that you can spray a little water over the radiator.

READ the destructions!!! USE the proper oil break in additive, and if you have a flat tappet cam, you NEED to Google and read up on adding a small amount of cam additive to conventional oil WHICH NO LONGER CONTAINS these additives!!!! (phosphates) I'm speaking here of "after break in" running.

https://www.google.com/search?num=40...57.F-4pLM-D1BM
You can only run your car for 1/2 hour at a time before it overheats? Really? Ya know I used to DRIVE these cars in the 60's and 70's and I do NOT remember going down the highway and seeing a huge big row of parked cars with their hoods up, steam coming out, and the owners "resting" the cars after 1/2 hour of driving!!!!!
Old 08-20-2013 | 10:23 AM
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No I am not saying driving only 30 min what I was just thinking is having it @ 2-2500 rpms standing still with out driving it where air is not going through it. I know a friend of mine said down in Texas the other day it was 102 deg at 8:00 p.m. and his car was over heating just sitting their...with OUT running @ 2-2500 rpms.....
And I did get a bottle of zink Comp recommended and added to the oil and they said every time I chainge the oil add a bottle of it .
Old 08-20-2013 | 11:26 AM
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Put a box fan in front of the radiator.. Even spray water on it if needed
Old 08-20-2013 | 11:46 AM
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Read the directions closely I think it says a total of thirty minutes in whatever intervals you want. They want thirty minutes of run time at 2000-2500 rpms then chang the oil & filter.. Just make sure you run zinc additive even after it is broke in. Alot of the fleet oils already have the zinc in them...Bill
Old 08-20-2013 | 12:34 PM
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Well its 64 deg here today in wy..I got other problems with it now...the last person that owened the car stripped out the threads where the harmonic balancer goes only have 3 to 4 threads left so iam gonna have to run a heli coil 3/4 I was told...but I have to go back to work for 2 weeks so I gonna have to wait till I get home for my next 2 weeks off.
Old 08-20-2013 | 03:20 PM
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BB or SB ?? Does your balancer have a long bolt or short one ?
Old 08-20-2013 | 04:58 PM
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Box fan is it. Drilling the crank snout inside the car for a heli coil ain't going to happen. Take your crank to a machine shop.
Old 08-20-2013 | 06:01 PM
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hey

Originally Posted by TVLynn
BB or SB ?? Does your balancer have a long bolt or short one ?
The bolt is 1 3/4 (the tread part)

I was told by a mechanic that a 3/4 #16 Heli Coil would do it he had done 2 of them....
Old 08-20-2013 | 06:08 PM
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IF IT IS A SB you can use the longer bolt !!!! IF it is a BB you may be able to use the longer bolt and cut it down
it is a fine thread !
Old 08-20-2013 | 06:14 PM
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t

Originally Posted by TVLynn
IF IT IS A SB you can use the longer bolt !!!! IF it is a BB you may be able to use the longer bolt and cut it down
it is a fine thread !
What happen was the guy who had the car before I did put in the wrong bolt I think.I did get a longer bolt but the treads are flat and the bolt just turns and will not work...The guy I talk to said he had Heli Coil 2 of them in the past and worked well...So Iam thinking that might have to happen...I checked and I have room to get the drill in and all with out the radiator and what have you...I just hope I do not have to take the engine back out to get the crank out.
Old 08-20-2013 | 06:59 PM
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This type of thing happens when someone tries to pull the balancer on with only the bolt. This type of repair would be normal for a good mechanic to handle at any time without engine or crank removal. Don't just dive in, be prepared and have all the right tools and parts and you'll be fine.
Old 08-20-2013 | 07:09 PM
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t

Originally Posted by Coronet 500
This type of thing happens when someone tries to pull the balancer on with only the bolt. This type of repair would be normal for a good mechanic to handle at any time without engine or crank removal. Don't just dive in, be prepared and have all the right tools and parts and you'll be fine.
I used a puller when I took the balancer off and worked great.....Bit I tell you what being that this is my first time doing this I have learned a lot..I have a good friend that has been helping me as well and probable could not have done 1/2 of it with out him.
Old 08-20-2013 | 08:16 PM
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i use valvoline premium blue diesel 15W-40 it has LOTS of zinc. it is the Dodge Cummings factory fill. what else do you need to know? been using it in Wichita, KS we have cold weather, and HOT weather. in 4 years i have had NO trouble. in a 2001 dakota V6 stock. that IS driven hard. i have added ZDD-PLUS and or red line engine oil break-in additive, just one at a time. both have lots of zinc.
Old 08-21-2013 | 09:03 AM
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Some of the newer type heli-coil set have a tool that makes the hole bigger and threads it too for the new insert to go in...Bill
Old 08-21-2013 | 11:18 AM
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I have been looking at the new Heli Coils I am gonna call them because I also have to torque it up to 135 I think....I know its up in the 100s and I want to make sure it works.
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