Breaking in a Cam
#1
Breaking in a Cam
When you break in a cam.... Comp cam recommends 30 min @ 2-2500 rpm...To me the car is gonna heat up pretty quick I would think....Is it o.k. to run it like 10 min let it cool then 10 min again and on ? Just to break it in then change the oil and what have you.
#2
Nope. Whatever cam you put in you follow the break in EXACTLY
You are expected to have the engine "ready to run," and this means
proper fuel supply, so not some 10 year old tank of gummed up gas
proper timing, ready to go, so this means you have the timing set ready to fire
Coolant properly filled up and burped. If for some reason you suspect that your cooling system is a "little lame" I would highly recommend that you get a garden hose ready at fire-up with a "misting" nozzle so that you can spray a little water over the radiator.
READ the destructions!!! USE the proper oil break in additive, and if you have a flat tappet cam, you NEED to Google and read up on adding a small amount of cam additive to conventional oil WHICH NO LONGER CONTAINS these additives!!!! (phosphates) I'm speaking here of "after break in" running.
https://www.google.com/search?num=40...57.F-4pLM-D1BM
You can only run your car for 1/2 hour at a time before it overheats? Really? Ya know I used to DRIVE these cars in the 60's and 70's and I do NOT remember going down the highway and seeing a huge big row of parked cars with their hoods up, steam coming out, and the owners "resting" the cars after 1/2 hour of driving!!!!!
You are expected to have the engine "ready to run," and this means
proper fuel supply, so not some 10 year old tank of gummed up gas
proper timing, ready to go, so this means you have the timing set ready to fire
Coolant properly filled up and burped. If for some reason you suspect that your cooling system is a "little lame" I would highly recommend that you get a garden hose ready at fire-up with a "misting" nozzle so that you can spray a little water over the radiator.
READ the destructions!!! USE the proper oil break in additive, and if you have a flat tappet cam, you NEED to Google and read up on adding a small amount of cam additive to conventional oil WHICH NO LONGER CONTAINS these additives!!!! (phosphates) I'm speaking here of "after break in" running.
https://www.google.com/search?num=40...57.F-4pLM-D1BM
You can only run your car for 1/2 hour at a time before it overheats? Really? Ya know I used to DRIVE these cars in the 60's and 70's and I do NOT remember going down the highway and seeing a huge big row of parked cars with their hoods up, steam coming out, and the owners "resting" the cars after 1/2 hour of driving!!!!!
#3
No I am not saying driving only 30 min what I was just thinking is having it @ 2-2500 rpms standing still with out driving it where air is not going through it. I know a friend of mine said down in Texas the other day it was 102 deg at 8:00 p.m. and his car was over heating just sitting their...with OUT running @ 2-2500 rpms.....
And I did get a bottle of zink Comp recommended and added to the oil and they said every time I chainge the oil add a bottle of it .
And I did get a bottle of zink Comp recommended and added to the oil and they said every time I chainge the oil add a bottle of it .
#5
Read the directions closely I think it says a total of thirty minutes in whatever intervals you want. They want thirty minutes of run time at 2000-2500 rpms then chang the oil & filter.. Just make sure you run zinc additive even after it is broke in. Alot of the fleet oils already have the zinc in them...Bill
#6
Well its 64 deg here today in wy..I got other problems with it now...the last person that owened the car stripped out the threads where the harmonic balancer goes only have 3 to 4 threads left so iam gonna have to run a heli coil 3/4 I was told...but I have to go back to work for 2 weeks so I gonna have to wait till I get home for my next 2 weeks off.
#9
#11
t
What happen was the guy who had the car before I did put in the wrong bolt I think.I did get a longer bolt but the treads are flat and the bolt just turns and will not work...The guy I talk to said he had Heli Coil 2 of them in the past and worked well...So Iam thinking that might have to happen...I checked and I have room to get the drill in and all with out the radiator and what have you...I just hope I do not have to take the engine back out to get the crank out.
#12
This type of thing happens when someone tries to pull the balancer on with only the bolt. This type of repair would be normal for a good mechanic to handle at any time without engine or crank removal. Don't just dive in, be prepared and have all the right tools and parts and you'll be fine.
#13
t
This type of thing happens when someone tries to pull the balancer on with only the bolt. This type of repair would be normal for a good mechanic to handle at any time without engine or crank removal. Don't just dive in, be prepared and have all the right tools and parts and you'll be fine.
#14
i use valvoline premium blue diesel 15W-40 it has LOTS of zinc. it is the Dodge Cummings factory fill. what else do you need to know? been using it in Wichita, KS we have cold weather, and HOT weather. in 4 years i have had NO trouble. in a 2001 dakota V6 stock. that IS driven hard. i have added ZDD-PLUS and or red line engine oil break-in additive, just one at a time. both have lots of zinc.
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