Buying a welder
#2
For my general machine I have a Lincoln 180C Mig. Does small sheet to 3/8. Extremely durable and i am not easy on my tools.
I have taught folks to weld on this and it is no more difficult or easier than on a 110 machine IMO.
For shop work or mild fabrication I would stay in the 230v and up models. Almost all will take shielding gas and have a flux core option. And the 220v models will give you penetration needed when you start to do heavier work with less passes. Caution: making or buying a 230 extension cord and adding an outlet can be costly if you cant do your own electrical work. So factor that in to your budget and selection criteria.
Ive used Miller, Eastwood, Hobart and some old craftsmans. I liked them all, they were just different in their own ways... Eastwood has been advertising a lot lately and there price point is on the low side. I haven't used these newer one yet.
I send folks to the local tech school shop guy who will lets them burn metal for short money to learn..
You may want to pursue that first and see if it makes your decision to buy easier based on what you need to do..
I have taught folks to weld on this and it is no more difficult or easier than on a 110 machine IMO.
For shop work or mild fabrication I would stay in the 230v and up models. Almost all will take shielding gas and have a flux core option. And the 220v models will give you penetration needed when you start to do heavier work with less passes. Caution: making or buying a 230 extension cord and adding an outlet can be costly if you cant do your own electrical work. So factor that in to your budget and selection criteria.
Ive used Miller, Eastwood, Hobart and some old craftsmans. I liked them all, they were just different in their own ways... Eastwood has been advertising a lot lately and there price point is on the low side. I haven't used these newer one yet.
I send folks to the local tech school shop guy who will lets them burn metal for short money to learn..
You may want to pursue that first and see if it makes your decision to buy easier based on what you need to do..
#3
I would stay NOT ONLY with a solid recognized brand, but with one that is locally supported. Here, Miller and Lincoln are probably neck and neck on that account. I also have a 180 series Lincoln. Frankly, it was a toss up with Miller in my case. Eastwood? Are they really a "legit" brand?
I BELIEVE there has been some discussion that "big box" store sold units are not treated the same by the parent company so be aware of that possibility.
I BELIEVE there has been some discussion that "big box" store sold units are not treated the same by the parent company so be aware of that possibility.
#4
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
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From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Once again, Good Advice! Cost me nearly $100 to make a 30', 30 amp, 240 volt extension cord. Yes, it can be done cheaper, but as an electrician, I did it to code and did it right. Proper grounding saves lives. Would probably stay away from Eastwood for now, they look like Harbor Freight machines. It will most likely come down to price for you. For sheetmetal, get a gas rig. A 175 or 180 in most brands will probably set you for life. Hobart is a great machine, but it is now owned by Miller. Not bad, but they use alot of plastic in the wire feed system. Still good enough for hobby and non-production uses. Most new and used in the entry level price range [under $600] will have a 4 position current setting, which can do anything, but will take practice. Many new machines have infinite current settings, but they tend to be pricier. Handy, but great work has been done by millions with the older machines. Each of the manufacturers have welding forums like this http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/index.php Full of good folks that want to help. Dont forget to check Craigslist early on the weekends. I scored a Hobart 175 Handler, 240v, with cart, with gas, auto-dark helmet, gloves, for $350!
#5
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 4
From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Good advice 440! John Deere mowers sold at Home Depot are not considered John Deere mowers by the Deere store owners. They'd rather you just take them back to Home Depot!
#6
Good advice guys, thanks a lot!
I don't have a 220 line readily available in my backyard, so I guess I'll be sticking to something that runs on 120. Seems to me that most of those don't require the use of shielding gas? Is that right? What's the deal with the gas anyway?
I don't have a 220 line readily available in my backyard, so I guess I'll be sticking to something that runs on 120. Seems to me that most of those don't require the use of shielding gas? Is that right? What's the deal with the gas anyway?
#9
It is not all that expensive to add a 240V outlet, and as mentioned, you can make or have made, a 240V cord just for the welder
Most/ all these suitcase mig welders can be used with or converted to be used with gas. I HIGHLY recommend you get the gas setup. THIS IS what makes a wirefeed worthwhile.
the gas virtually eliminates slag, and gives you the advantage, such as when stitching up sheet metal, to just weld, quit, inspect and let cool, and hit it again, with no slag grinding in between. For the kind of welding I do, I use straight CO2 which is very cheap to buy.
Most/ all these suitcase mig welders can be used with or converted to be used with gas. I HIGHLY recommend you get the gas setup. THIS IS what makes a wirefeed worthwhile.
the gas virtually eliminates slag, and gives you the advantage, such as when stitching up sheet metal, to just weld, quit, inspect and let cool, and hit it again, with no slag grinding in between. For the kind of welding I do, I use straight CO2 which is very cheap to buy.
#11
My first was a "good buy" on a NIB Lincoln weldpak 100 with the gas kit, unused. It is 120V and I still occasionally use it for light work. But it was always "marginal."
(It does help to power it with an OVERSIZED cord, and use an outlet that is close to the box and wired with heavy wire)
Even so, very marginal on 1/4" material.
I say, DO WHATEVER it takes to "go 220" You won't be sorry, I promise.
Here's how far you can push a Lincoln 180 series: This is two 3/8" plates welded back to back to construct a new mount for my blade cylinders on my little Cletrac:
Ya, it's a morph. Oliver/ Cletrac chassis, Massey harris sheet metal, Toyota 20R engine, Falcan 1 bbl carb, HEI ign module, and governor is off a gas starter (pony) motor off a D2-D4 cat
(It does help to power it with an OVERSIZED cord, and use an outlet that is close to the box and wired with heavy wire)
Even so, very marginal on 1/4" material.
I say, DO WHATEVER it takes to "go 220" You won't be sorry, I promise.
Here's how far you can push a Lincoln 180 series: This is two 3/8" plates welded back to back to construct a new mount for my blade cylinders on my little Cletrac:
Ya, it's a morph. Oliver/ Cletrac chassis, Massey harris sheet metal, Toyota 20R engine, Falcan 1 bbl carb, HEI ign module, and governor is off a gas starter (pony) motor off a D2-D4 cat
#12
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 4
From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Brem, that Miller has a much more adjustable voltage control than I would have thought for an entry-level machine. Impressive! A big help for thinner metals.
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