So I have a 1993 Dodge 5.9l V8, I want to put a new cam in it and honestly I'm not to knowledgeable about them, I was wondering if this cam here, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...-size/5-9l-360, would be better than a stock cam that would be in that motor.
Much appreciated!

 

This will sound like a crappy answer, but to help you pick a cam, you will need to tell us what you plan to do with the car/truck.
Lots of info needed!
Type of vehicle
Transmission, torque converter size
Rear axle gearing and tire size
Engine specs. Rebuilt or totally stock?
Drag race or just fun on the street/daily driver vehicle.
Sorry if this comes across harsh. Its just that cam selection is not easy. It helps to have all this info to narrow down from ALL the cams out there.

 

Looks like you have searched out a LA flat tappet cam called a "magnum", your Magnum engine will require a roller style lifter which also changes the cam grind profile.

Look up Comp Cams Camquest6 computer program it can help with selection. They also have written tech articles about the basics and videos too.

If you answer some of the application or useage questions people here will gladly give recommendations from their experience.

 

Ok so its a 1974 dodge dart, 727 tranny, mostly stock, just want a cam for a little more power. So I would appreciate a link to a roller cam that would work.
Thanks

 

my experience is for a daily driver. keep the lift to .430-.450 inch at the valve. and 268 degrees advertised, not .050 lift. i think the chrysler used some with a little more in the last few years. but remember iam an old school guy. some of the newer guys may have better ideas. the specs is what i had on a 1965 300 L. that did great as a daily driver. it was 4200 lb car 3.23 rear 413 , 360 HP single AFB totally stock, 1/4 mile ET 15.45. got the same MPG as a new yorker with 340 HP. just dont over cam it of over carb it.

 

Comp has nothing on the shelf. You'll need it made. Ive cammed a bunch of those and these are the critical areas to watch so your weekend project doesn't become a monster.

1. The retainer will hit the guide at .525 ish depending on OE machining. Some more... some less... but the heads flow to .55 so you want to get up their to take advantage of the flow.

2. Stock magnum springs barely control the magnum stick. If the intake flowed past 5000 rpm they would float. You need a 1.44 OD spring. You can get the Hughes 1110 spring and retainer for the easiest swap without cutting. Any bigger in OD will hit the head bolt. Do NOT use stock springs with a cam swap.

3. The stock cams are cut for the computer back when we couldn't reprogram it well. Assuming you have a carb and hopefully headers you can have one made for only 25 bucks over off the shefl prices. Turn around is about two days.

Search "Maca" posts on here. We spec's a decent cam that idled well with an Auto and made 360HP when his shop dyno'd it. I may still have the cam card around somewhere if you want the lobe numbers. It was a variant of the XE265 computer grind cut on a 110LSA for the carb and we swapped the XE lobe for the 4x4 lobe which generates more area under the curve for those heads. So duration would be 216/224 with lift .506/.506 110LSA. Tell them to use the magnum core.

This will pull over 16 plus pounds of vacuum on that long block and idle easily at 780rpm. No problem with brakes or AC.

Yes, you'll need to check Push Rod length. Measure base circle of the old cam on the way out and new one too. This will give you a double check on you PR.