Got a 440 put a new aluminum high flow water pump and a aluminmum housing. Put in a new aluminmum radiator and added a Classic Air conditioning. Where do the heater hoses connect to the water pump housing. 440 Source said it didn't matter but I find that hard to understand. I am going to add a fan shroud as soon as I can. Is there anyway to tell if you have air in the system. Also I need to add a recirculating over flow. Just had a chance to get the other stuff on yet.

 

talking about the hoses that go to the heater core? if so they are right that wont cause over heating issues.
im not sure how to tell you have air in the system, does your stat have a hole or a air bleed valve in it? if not then its a good idea to drill a hole in the flange of the stat to keep air from being trapped.

 

Kevin -

The heater hoses shouldn't cause a problem, heck mine doesn't even have heater hoses.

Make sure your thermostat is opening and you have the right temp stat (I like 160s).

Make sure there isn't sludge in the block, not uncommon. It may need a flushing (or two). I had that problem a while back.

If you find a decent recirculating puke can, let me know. Most of the ones I've seen lately don't recirculate and I'd like to replace my old one. (All you need is to find one that feeds from the bottom.)

Archer

 

I don't currently have a hole in the thermostat. I'll add one. I believe I have seen most people put a 1/8" size hole. Running a 160 degree thermostat I guess on the heater hoses I keep thinking one would be pushing water into the heater core and would be sucking it back to the pump. There is sludge built up in the block as I replaced the freeze plugs when I had the engine out for painting and I pulled out what I could. But prior to painting the car and adding the ac, changing the radiator I couldn't hardly get this thing up to 185 degrees without running it real hard. The radiator is a aluminmum 2 core. It wasn't very expensive. I believe it was around $200.

 

Check your 440 Source Pump Housing. A guy on another forum had the same issue and it turned out to be the pump housing. The water passages were way smaller than stock which impeded the flow of the coolant causing the over-heating.

 

Kevin -

Aluminum dissipates heat better than the old style radiators, but not sure if a two row radiator was the way to go for even a mild 440. I'm running a 4 row Griffen, and except for that sludge problem ... seems to be doing the job with OR withOUT a tstat.

Also, shroud placement and distance of the fan (hope you have a big one, fan I mean) to the radiator surface matter.

Archer

 

The fan hasn't changed. But how do I check the water passages on the pump housing. Could I take a grinder to it and open it up. Maybe check it against the gaskets and see if the gasket has a bigger hole than the housing?

 

Do you have your original?

 

No I don't.

 

I suppose you could compare it to the gasket.

 

Put colder water in it ha

 

Rexus had a great point. I heard about that also, pump should be a gasket-match for the outlets, roughly. Fan shroud is your #1 issue right now!