Stereo set up
#3
I'm courious as to how you are going to install (mount) it. I wish to put a stereo in my polara but (through thought) I'm trying to figure a way so I dont drill any holes. I had a suggestion to put it into the glove box but I need it more accessible. Now I'm trying to make a bracket that would use existing holes in the under lip of the dash but not sure if thats gonna work. Sorry this probably dont help you at all.
#4
im mounting it in my glove box. i cut out sheet metal and made a box to slip into the glovebox. ill take pics later.
im worried about the hook up being difficult. im reading everywhere about wiring harnesses and such, sounding like it was going to be hard.
im worried about the hook up being difficult. im reading everywhere about wiring harnesses and such, sounding like it was going to be hard.
#5
I know paddockparts.com used to sell radio install kits for mopar glove boxes I dont think they will have on that is made for your polara but its worth some checking out to see if one fits your polara
#6
The snake pit of wires can be confussing no doubt, just remember ya need 1 constant live wire for clock / preset station memory or every time you shut the car off it will erase it all, a wire thats live with key on only which is the main feed, a ground wire, might have some for an amp hook up and all the rest are speakers, I always recomend running new wire from tune box to speakers since the factory wire could be in bad shape from old age ... like me lol
#10
i put a sony xplode system in my dakota i went right into the wiring harness i would assume you do not want to directly go into the harness but if you do and have a wiring diagram of your car its a snap and man do they sound good i also hooked up 2 6x9 300 watt xplode speakers 1 12" 800 watt sub and a 1000 watt amp
#11
i put a sony xplode system in my dakota i went right into the wiring harness i would assume you do not want to directly go into the harness but if you do and have a wiring diagram of your car its a snap and man do they sound good i also hooked up 2 6x9 300 watt xplode speakers 1 12" 800 watt sub and a 1000 watt amp
the holes in the back where i wanted to put the speakers are slightly to small, so that will have to be fixed when i can get some snips and just cut & pry the holes a little bigger.
is there any way to test if the whole set up works? i was thinking, just find a fuse on the fuse box i know works. then just connect the radios main feed wire to that. then ground the radio and hook up the speakers. then just use my ipod. will this work? i just want to test the stuff to see if it works.
EDIT: actually, could i just hook it up to my car battery?
Last edited by 64polara; 05-30-2010 at 01:03 PM.
#13
i hooked up everything to the battery, and it works and sounds pretty damn good!
speakers sounds nice, and the head unit has a lot of features.
this turned out to be a good buy. just wish i had a 12v source of power so i could play with it inside
speakers sounds nice, and the head unit has a lot of features.
this turned out to be a good buy. just wish i had a 12v source of power so i could play with it inside
#16
Hopefully you got the results you wanted (if you did it today)
And followed the directions...... who reads those?
JMO and the way I did it was:
The receiver is under the drivers seat. (I only drive this Mopar so, I don't have to worry about the seat moving.)
I can reach it without leaning over and opening the glove box.
It's hidden. The stock AM radio is still there and looks stock without a AM/FM/CD/MP3 player showing throwing off the stock look. AND not cutting into your dash!!
The wires are ran from the ACC and BAT terminals at the fuse box down the door plates, under the carpet and then under the seat where nobody knows it's there.
The AMP is in the trunk and the 2 12 inch subs are mounted to the back of the back seat.
Again you can't see the subs. The trunk is big enough to have the big bass sound and since I put sound deadening material down from the gas pedal floor to trunk, it sounds great. Acoustically.
And I checked to see if the license plate frame rattles like the import cars. It doesn't.
You can get real technical when it comes to sound systems but, since I like the stock look inside, I like new technology hidden.
And BTW, I'd never mount a Tom Tom nav system either
Have fun with your ride!!!
And followed the directions...... who reads those?
JMO and the way I did it was:
The receiver is under the drivers seat. (I only drive this Mopar so, I don't have to worry about the seat moving.)
I can reach it without leaning over and opening the glove box.
It's hidden. The stock AM radio is still there and looks stock without a AM/FM/CD/MP3 player showing throwing off the stock look. AND not cutting into your dash!!
The wires are ran from the ACC and BAT terminals at the fuse box down the door plates, under the carpet and then under the seat where nobody knows it's there.
The AMP is in the trunk and the 2 12 inch subs are mounted to the back of the back seat.
Again you can't see the subs. The trunk is big enough to have the big bass sound and since I put sound deadening material down from the gas pedal floor to trunk, it sounds great. Acoustically.
And I checked to see if the license plate frame rattles like the import cars. It doesn't.
You can get real technical when it comes to sound systems but, since I like the stock look inside, I like new technology hidden.
And BTW, I'd never mount a Tom Tom nav system either
Have fun with your ride!!!
#17
is there anyway to hook up tube powered speakers to my car?
my dad has always said that tubes are better than transistor amps. i personally have not had hands on experience weighing the pro's and con's of both, but ill take his word (and a couple online articles) for it.
i know it will be more work than a normal amp (if it can be done), but the way i look at it is like this. i like loud music (slightly ashamed), my car is from 1964, they didn't have transistor amps back then, so technically a tube amp would be more time period. so if im going to have loud music i might as well do it the way it would have been done in 64' especially if it supposedly sounds even better! plus it would be really unique to have.
so, has this been done? if so is there anything needed to be done special for tubes? like cooling, or someway to cushion because of frangibility?
EDIT: my plan is to make a box to mount speakers, amp, ect behind my backseat in the trunk. to keep stock look though im going to use grill cloth like on the front of old fender amps to cover the speakers and stuff. i want to get old looking gold cloth like this one. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ource=googleps
my dad has always said that tubes are better than transistor amps. i personally have not had hands on experience weighing the pro's and con's of both, but ill take his word (and a couple online articles) for it.
i know it will be more work than a normal amp (if it can be done), but the way i look at it is like this. i like loud music (slightly ashamed), my car is from 1964, they didn't have transistor amps back then, so technically a tube amp would be more time period. so if im going to have loud music i might as well do it the way it would have been done in 64' especially if it supposedly sounds even better! plus it would be really unique to have.
so, has this been done? if so is there anything needed to be done special for tubes? like cooling, or someway to cushion because of frangibility?
EDIT: my plan is to make a box to mount speakers, amp, ect behind my backseat in the trunk. to keep stock look though im going to use grill cloth like on the front of old fender amps to cover the speakers and stuff. i want to get old looking gold cloth like this one. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ource=googleps
Last edited by 64polara; 06-12-2010 at 04:22 PM.
#18
tubes do sound better than solid state, but in a car you wouldnt notice the differnce. tru technology, audison, and a couple of others make tube type amps for car audio.(at about $10 a watt) they are expensive!! also the biggest tube amp for car is 100 watts or slighly more .but the problem with tube amp they very unefficient compared too a class a/b amp. the cons of tube amps in car is expensive.. you wouldnt hear the quality difference in a car cuz of road noise/engine, cost, buy a nice class a/b amp for mids and highs,, and a class D for bass, stay away from rocford,sony, soundstream,.....mtx, crossfire,memphis,alpine are decent amps for the price
#20
hmm i see what your saying. i guess tubes is out. im just going to have to hide the amp then if i get one. they just look to new to be seen out in the open.
i still want to mount speakers in the back though with the grill cloth though. i found a turquoise cloth that matches my interior.
i still want to mount speakers in the back though with the grill cloth though. i found a turquoise cloth that matches my interior.
#21
64polara go to www.the12volt.com that is a awesome web site for car audio its a forum also. i used to be on that forum when i had a car audio biz, alot of installers on that site with great advice, wiring diagrams, how to hook up anything 12 volt.. or convert 110 volt to 12 volt.. be sure to check it out. and go to the members rides and look at the installs theyt may give you ideas.. most ppl there are just as friendly as on this forum,
#22
64polara go to www.the12volt.com that is a awesome web site for car audio its a forum also. i used to be on that forum when i had a car audio biz, alot of installers on that site with great advice, wiring diagrams, how to hook up anything 12 volt.. or convert 110 volt to 12 volt.. be sure to check it out. and go to the members rides and look at the installs theyt may give you ideas.. most ppl there are just as friendly as on this forum,
i defiantly want to read about that 110volt 12volt setup
#23
ok so the main hold back right now on the head unit is the glove box insert. how the hell do i get such an exact cut on the sheet metal to fit in the headunit perfectly? or do i need to buy/fabricate a piece that the unit slips into that is connected to the metal or something?
heres a pic of the metal soon to be cut out.
heres a pic of the metal soon to be cut out.
#24
what tools do you have access too? use a die grinder with a thin cut blade cut the hole out small then grind till it fits perfectly, or go down to you local car audio shop and buy a sheet of abs plastic its easier to cut and a good epoxy will hold it where you need it.. you add heat and it bends easy, a 12"X12" inch piece runs about 12 bucks. it come in any color you want as long as its black.
#25
110 to 12 volts is rather easy since most house hold items run on 12 volt dc.. its just 110 is the norm and it converted in the power supply, most things just go behind the powersupply. the big thing in the mid 90's was to run a alesis EQ . it was a pro audio 110 volt. ppl would pay good money to convert them to 12 volt dc.. what they didnt know was they were a 12 volt dc eq.
#27
#28
i do love the sound of an engine, and i would not bother with the radio, but the ladies like music, and if im going to have music, i might as well make it good music/sound that i can enjoy to.
#29
#30
my friend recently bought a 1998 dodge 1500. it had a cheap 90's looking Sony xplode head unit with a plastic sleeve thing around it. he took out that old radio and put in anew one. luckily that plastic fits my sony head unit, so now the hole will be 100% easier to cut
and my buddy said its to late now, but i can borrow his tin snips tomorrow so head unit and speakers should be in soon.
and my buddy said its to late now, but i can borrow his tin snips tomorrow so head unit and speakers should be in soon.