UNDER HOOD HEAT
 

Other than header wrap and a hood scoop, are there any more tricks that you guys use to reduce the temperature under the hood ? ----- I realize the proper radiator, coolant, thermostat, fan(s), shroud, water pump, pulleys, timing etc. is also a factor. ----- What about raising the rear of the hood by adjusting the bolts that hold the hood to the hinges ? It seems that this would let, at least, a little heat out.

Have at it , it works about 1/2 inch up, let some trapped air move.

Magoo -

That's going to look pretty silly and the cowl induction thing is limited at best.

What's the real problem?

Archer

Heat Under The Hood
 

-- As far as looks, it's just a hot rod. -- Still searching for the "real problem". -- Have dealt with all of the items mentioned, plus there was a head gasket leak ( no water got to the oil) and I had .007" taken off from both head surfaces - used Cometic head gaskets, when we put it back together, and solved that problem -- With the TTI headers there is a tremendous amount of heat under the hood. -- After driving a few miles, it's like a blast furnace, when I open the hood. -- I'm thinking that is a problem, possibly one of others, when sitting in traffic. -- . Thanks

Magoo -

First thing I'd do is get some numbers. An IR thermometer from Harbor Freight might cost you about $30 - 40. It's a neat tool. Get some readings on how hot things are under the hood. My headers are over 800 at the exhaust port, so things getting warm isn't odd. The "real question" I was referring to was what damage was it causing or what are you concerned about?

However, you're initial thoughts were correct. If your engine isn't overheating (not going over 200* for example in a worse case scenario), then a scoop and header wraps are your first lines of defense.

Archer

Run with hood off
 

---- In the discussion regarding pulleys, you suggested to try running with the hood off. Now weather wise, here in the N.E. it's to late to test that, however next year when the weather heats up, I'll try that. - I believe that will be a good test to determine if engine compartment heat is my problem in stop & go traffic. --Thanks for the idea.

205 and beyond
 

---- Not sure about damage, but when it goes beyond 205+, I get nervous and shut it down, hopefully before any damage is done. ---- See info in the post below re taking the hood off. That should be a real good test. -- Thanks for the input.

COLD WEATHER CAR
 

---- - Just thinking, perhaps I've got myself a cool weather car. - Maybe I should get another one for warm weather. -- Ha Ha -- Wife doesn't think that's funny.

Magoo -

If it's going much beyond 205*, you don't have an under hood heat problem, you have an engine cooling problem.

Basic stuff, does it get hotter when stuck in traffic and respond, even slightly to increasing rpm (air flow) or does it get hot regardless of speed (heat dissipation/radiator, or coolant flow/water pump/thermostat.

I tried that with the wife too - didn't fly.

Archer

Cooling in traffic
 

-- Seems like when moving on the highway the under hood heat would be less than in slow traffic, due to more air movement, therefore hotter at multiple red lites etc ??? ---- It runs around 175 - 180 on the highway.

Magoo -

Then (assuming you have a decent radiator), you're just not getting enough air through it. While a GOOD set of electrical fans, set up as pullers is optimal, a BIG flex fan properly distanced inside the shroud can work. I'm using the latter with decent results, but will probably go electric sooner or later.

Lastly, there are a number of "wet water" solutions on the market. I've used Purple Ice with decent, but not spectacular results. It couldn't hurt, and should help protect the cooling system is nothing else.

Archer

WATER WETTER
 

Lastly, there are a number of "wet water" solutions on the market. I've used Purple Ice with decent, but not spectacular results. It couldn't hurt, and should help protect the cooling system is nothing else.

Archer[/QUOTE] --- My best results was with tap water and a solution called No-Rosion, which is a water wetter type solution. -- That was actually livable. ---- Now I have 50 - 50 water and anti freeze. -- I'll go back to the water and some type of water wetter, in the spring. -- Soon off to Florida, for the winter & car will stay comfy, in the garage, in Pa.

NEW INFO
 

Possibly a solution -- see my other post, under Pulley diameters.

Magoo -

Not a bad solution, but maybe not a great one either. Under driving the fan pulley, makes the fan and water pump go faster (good for cooling). It also creates more parasitic drag, robbing HP, that may or may be a problem for you. Depending on the fan and pump and your driving/rpm habits you may also go beyond the safety limits of said fan and water pump at higher rpm.

Again, not a terrible idea, but proceed with caution.

Archer

UNDER VS OVER
 

-- You mean Over Driving makes it go faster, don't you ? -- Actually, I won't be Over Driving it, I'll be 1 to 1 (WP 6-1/2" and Crank 6-1/2"). --- At my age, loss of HP is not a problem, I have some extra to spare. --- I'll keep an eye on things. --- Thanks --- Dick

Dick -

Actually you're under driving it to make it go faster. Think over-drive as in a transmission.
Kinda why I haven't gone to the electric fans yet either - but still thinking about it.
Where I live, utilizing the extra HP (and is can be as much as 10 - 15) by going electric is a seldom to none proposition. Live to far from a track, and too many cops/traffic on the highways.

You're welcome. :)

Archer

Under vs. Over
 

-- See attached. -- Dick

Dick -

You want to drive the water pump/fan slower???
Or am I misreading something?

For increased cooling you'd want the use a smaller pulley on the water pump, to make it go faster than the crank.

Archer

SEE POST RE PULLEY DIAMETERS
 

--- Archer -- I thought that you followed from the other post. -- Sorry -- Dick

Just to clear matters up, "over driving a fan is when the driven pulley is reduced in size from original and the driving pulley remains the same or larger". This has nothing to do with transmission ratios. Overdrive in a transmission means that the 1:1 ratio of the final gear has been reduced to where the output is less than 1.

-- Thanks ---- Dick

Magoo -

Look up under driving / over driving from a physical perspective. Sorry, the Physics don't change based on the machinery. But you have the idea anyway.

Archer

Under driving vs. Over driving a car fan
 

[QUOTE=Archer;130766]Magoo -

Under driving the fan pulley, makes the fan and water pump go faster (good for cooling)

Archer[/QUOTE] -- Nope ! -- In The Automotive World, here's how it works. -- See attached. -- Thanks for all of the exchanges, now let's put it to bed. -- Dick