update on the 66
11-10-2007 | 10:11 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
update on the 66
Well, I got the carb tuned... pretty decently, the best I could. I don't have a timing light so the timing is kind of set by ear. Its running and staying on, even in gear!! YAY!!! This is good! I drove it up and down my street and backed it into the garage, where it sits on jackstands now LOL.
poor car.
I'm still arguing with the motor mount, i know they put it in there, so it has to come out LOL I think my whole problem is i lack the proper tools, but thats an easy fix.
As far as adjusting the valves... I don't even want to think about it until i get the valve cover gaskets ordered. I did get detailed instructions on how to adjust them for my car though, so it shouldn't be too difficult i hope.
I would feel soooo much more comfortable doing things like the valves if I had someone watching over my shoulder to make sure I don't screw up. haha...my dad used to do me like that when he'd help me work on my cars in highschool.
Other than the valves and getting the carb tuned perfectly and the timing set perfectly, I just need little things like gaskets, filters, spark plugs and wires, tires, and oil and I'm pretty much good to go. She got insured yesterday, so maybe a test drive on a real road will happen soon.
The rear drums... later, when i have more patience or no choice but to take them apart HAHA.
poor car.
I'm still arguing with the motor mount, i know they put it in there, so it has to come out LOL I think my whole problem is i lack the proper tools, but thats an easy fix.
As far as adjusting the valves... I don't even want to think about it until i get the valve cover gaskets ordered. I did get detailed instructions on how to adjust them for my car though, so it shouldn't be too difficult i hope.
I would feel soooo much more comfortable doing things like the valves if I had someone watching over my shoulder to make sure I don't screw up. haha...my dad used to do me like that when he'd help me work on my cars in highschool.
Other than the valves and getting the carb tuned perfectly and the timing set perfectly, I just need little things like gaskets, filters, spark plugs and wires, tires, and oil and I'm pretty much good to go. She got insured yesterday, so maybe a test drive on a real road will happen soon.
The rear drums... later, when i have more patience or no choice but to take them apart HAHA.
11-10-2007 | 12:33 PM
#2
Mopar Lover
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 248
Did you see what I wrote in your other post concerning the drums?
So far as valves, remember this: If in doubt, you are better off looser than tighter. Not enough valve lash can cause burned valves
So far as timing without a light, if you can find an old VW mechanic, he or she probably knows how to set timing "by static"--with the engine off. What you do is this:
bump the engine to the timing mark you want, I.E. 5BTC or whatever it should be. If you have a wrench for the front crank nut, this is easy, if you have a stick, you can put the car in high gear and waggle the care fore and aft against the slack.
Once you have the timing "on the mark" then loosen the distributer and move the distributer to RETARD (on your car, CW) With the ignition ON, slowly move the distributor towards ADVANCE ( on your car, CCW) until you get a spark. You can take an old plug, and temporarily hook it from the coil HT lead (center lead) to ground. If you use a low voltage lamp, put the lamp on the neg. term of the coil to ground. When the points open the lamp will light.
This won't be entirely as accurate as a strobe timing light, but it's more accurate than you can hear.
So far as valves, remember this: If in doubt, you are better off looser than tighter. Not enough valve lash can cause burned valves
So far as timing without a light, if you can find an old VW mechanic, he or she probably knows how to set timing "by static"--with the engine off. What you do is this:
bump the engine to the timing mark you want, I.E. 5BTC or whatever it should be. If you have a wrench for the front crank nut, this is easy, if you have a stick, you can put the car in high gear and waggle the care fore and aft against the slack.
Once you have the timing "on the mark" then loosen the distributer and move the distributer to RETARD (on your car, CW) With the ignition ON, slowly move the distributor towards ADVANCE ( on your car, CCW) until you get a spark. You can take an old plug, and temporarily hook it from the coil HT lead (center lead) to ground. If you use a low voltage lamp, put the lamp on the neg. term of the coil to ground. When the points open the lamp will light.
This won't be entirely as accurate as a strobe timing light, but it's more accurate than you can hear.
11-13-2007 | 05:05 PM
#4
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Posts: n/a
right on
aren't you glad you didn't sell the car? i'm sure you'll do alright with it. if you could ever swing a trip to motown, i'd be glad to help you. i'm finally pulling my poly outta my dart right now (in between work, changing my boy's diapers, and a wallpaper project for my sister...) finding/collecting parts sucks the fat one but this car will be an earned pleasure, as they all end up being.
aren't you glad you didn't sell the car? i'm sure you'll do alright with it. if you could ever swing a trip to motown, i'd be glad to help you. i'm finally pulling my poly outta my dart right now (in between work, changing my boy's diapers, and a wallpaper project for my sister...) finding/collecting parts sucks the fat one but this car will be an earned pleasure, as they all end up being.
11-14-2007 | 09:32 AM
#5
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Posts: n/a
ok, one more quick question. I'm pretty much done with everything that I know it needs. Now I need to adjust the valves but this is where i'm running into a lot of different ideas. I was told to adjust them with the engine @ temperature, then I was told to adjust them cold, then I was told, if it's a 318... that they aren't adjustable at all.. just a certain torque spec. I have no idea. I do know that I got my new valve cover gaskets in and i'm ready to get this **** going so I can get tires today. All I lack is a clip and 3 screws for the heating unit ( i misplaced them, but i got the new heater core in! lol) the valves being adjusted (if they are adjustable) and tires and thats it. Everything else is done.
11-14-2007 | 10:01 AM
#6
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ohhh, one more thing. She needs a radiator. Price quotes are outrageous. New - $900, recore - $400. Custom - $550
or.. i can order one from Speeway Motors for $240, it's a s/b ford high efficiency aluminum radiator, but it has the bottom hose where i need it and i can just buy a longer hose for the top. I can't find one with the inlet and outlet on the drivers side. Does this radiator sound like something that I should go ahead and order? Think I can make it work?
It's $240 for the radiator, rubber pads and brackets. Its much cheaper, it won't match or look original but it will serve it's purpose I think. I just want a lil insight...what do you guys think, before i order it?
or.. i can order one from Speeway Motors for $240, it's a s/b ford high efficiency aluminum radiator, but it has the bottom hose where i need it and i can just buy a longer hose for the top. I can't find one with the inlet and outlet on the drivers side. Does this radiator sound like something that I should go ahead and order? Think I can make it work?
It's $240 for the radiator, rubber pads and brackets. Its much cheaper, it won't match or look original but it will serve it's purpose I think. I just want a lil insight...what do you guys think, before i order it?
11-14-2007 | 11:28 AM
#7
Mopar Lover
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 248
A couple of comments on the valve adjustment, since you sound inexperienced. Whoever told you these are not adjustable was thinking of the newer LA engines, which cannot be adjusted, normally
Get the hot lash spec from a reliable source, such as a Chrysler dealer --make them look it up in "the book" I don't remember for sure, but I think the "real" spec for these engines was "hot"
or the old "blue" Motor's manual
I don't remember if the 318's had the "self locking" adjustments--I.E. you just turn them--or whether it had locking jam nuts with slotted screws. These last type are the most secure, BUT they are a pain in the a@@ to get right because you MUST get the jam nut tight without moving the adjustment. Take your time and be careful
When you use your feeler, I like to take two feelers--set one up for the spec lash, and the other for maybe .002" or so larger. You want to be able to get the "spec" gauge in, but NOT the .002 larger.
FIRST, though, just check your lash without changing it. You'll want a "remote starter" switch so you can bump the engine over on the starter without having someone "on the key."
Something you'll probably want to do--you really should find a good factory manual, or at least one of the old Motors manuals--something you should do is draw out a diagram of one head so that you know which valves are intake, and which are exhaust Sorry, I no longer have these books after a house fire. Actually, on your "poly" engine, that part is easy--the exhaust's are "on the bottom" of the head, and the intake's are "on the top."
Here's a couple of pages, geared to (gasp, yuk) Chivvy engines, but the same applies to the 318
http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala...t_valves.shtml
The second is a "quick" method, and WILL NOT WORK with all engines, especially ones with huge cams. I'd try the first way, then go back and see if this first one checks out, and you'll know if you can use it in the future
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp
You want to be ABSOLUTELY SURE that you get the engine bumped over so that the lash is at it's "most" when you check it. You might want to call this a "practice session" and plan on rechecking things again. I'd think twice before changing a setting --until you are sure that the adjustment is indeed wrong to start with
I used to run one head first, front to back, then go to the other side of the engine
On your valve covers, here's what I used to do:
Clean up the covers real good, and carefully glue the covers to the new gaskets with your choice of Permatex. I used to use "aircraft" something, I've forgotten. Put a LIGHT film of oil on the HEAD side of the gasket, so, if you're lucky, you can get them off again. If the covers are "straight" (not warped) they won't leak. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Valve cover bolts are only a "few inch pounds" you can tighten them with a screwdriver handle like a nutdriver. That is, just light hand tight. Otherwise, you'll "dimple" the cover at the screw holes, warp them, and they leak.
Here's something to make you drool:
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/poly-graphics.htm
Get the hot lash spec from a reliable source, such as a Chrysler dealer --make them look it up in "the book" I don't remember for sure, but I think the "real" spec for these engines was "hot"
or the old "blue" Motor's manual
I don't remember if the 318's had the "self locking" adjustments--I.E. you just turn them--or whether it had locking jam nuts with slotted screws. These last type are the most secure, BUT they are a pain in the a@@ to get right because you MUST get the jam nut tight without moving the adjustment. Take your time and be careful
When you use your feeler, I like to take two feelers--set one up for the spec lash, and the other for maybe .002" or so larger. You want to be able to get the "spec" gauge in, but NOT the .002 larger.
FIRST, though, just check your lash without changing it. You'll want a "remote starter" switch so you can bump the engine over on the starter without having someone "on the key."
Something you'll probably want to do--you really should find a good factory manual, or at least one of the old Motors manuals--something you should do is draw out a diagram of one head so that you know which valves are intake, and which are exhaust Sorry, I no longer have these books after a house fire. Actually, on your "poly" engine, that part is easy--the exhaust's are "on the bottom" of the head, and the intake's are "on the top."
Here's a couple of pages, geared to (gasp, yuk) Chivvy engines, but the same applies to the 318
http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala...t_valves.shtml
The second is a "quick" method, and WILL NOT WORK with all engines, especially ones with huge cams. I'd try the first way, then go back and see if this first one checks out, and you'll know if you can use it in the future
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp
You want to be ABSOLUTELY SURE that you get the engine bumped over so that the lash is at it's "most" when you check it. You might want to call this a "practice session" and plan on rechecking things again. I'd think twice before changing a setting --until you are sure that the adjustment is indeed wrong to start with
I used to run one head first, front to back, then go to the other side of the engine
On your valve covers, here's what I used to do:
Clean up the covers real good, and carefully glue the covers to the new gaskets with your choice of Permatex. I used to use "aircraft" something, I've forgotten. Put a LIGHT film of oil on the HEAD side of the gasket, so, if you're lucky, you can get them off again. If the covers are "straight" (not warped) they won't leak. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Valve cover bolts are only a "few inch pounds" you can tighten them with a screwdriver handle like a nutdriver. That is, just light hand tight. Otherwise, you'll "dimple" the cover at the screw holes, warp them, and they leak.
Here's something to make you drool:
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/poly-graphics.htm
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