urethane or rubber?
 

im looking to replace my suspension busing and the like on my 86 5th ave has anybody ever used polyethylene kits what are your suggestions

Polyurethane bushings with grease.

Poly usually lasts longer than rubber, is more resistant to gas, road debris, oils, etc. so they don't break down. Downside is that you need to keep them greased as they can be noisy.

Rubber is cheap, grease it during install and forget about it. Downside is that it will breakdown faster than poly.

With all that being said, it really depends on the application and the use of the vehicle. Street only, I'd go with rubber. Strip/track/performance, poly.

i am defiantly looking for performance
with new addco front and rear sway bars heavy spring set torsion set
but the main reason the drivers front is failing and that has to be replaced so i might as well do all and do all for performance gain

are there any kits available that are fully sleeved it seems the only kits i can find need to recycle parts of the original bushing
if this is true how does that work do i clean out the center of the bushing ie press it out with the outer sleeve still in the suspension component and press in the new poly and the new center bushing how do you remove the upper bushings from the pivot im assuming they are pressed on do i need special die tool for the press :)

If it requires that you re use the outer shells ? DO not remove them. Heat with a torch to remove the rubber and inner shell Then clean up the shell USE a silicon water proof grease. I used an energy suspension years ago on my 67. The kit included a packet of grease

apparently there are no direct kits for the m chassis :doh:
the staff at energy suspension directed me to http://suspension.com
"fabricator builder page":think:
i will have to get the dimensions my self and order the parts this will be fun well at least when im done there will be a new parts list for like minded M chassis owners keep you posted :popcorn:

If you can find a way to get them to fit, I think it's a great idea. Really like the stuff over old-school rubber.

i do to looking for that performance feel
we are taking initial measurements assessing how to remove the old bushing s and sleeves im going to purchase a cheep set of oem replacements 2 upper 1 lower about 30 bucks if we dont have to destroy them i will return them no harm done we will get our micrometer out and get our size right
we are looking for a single barrel bushing and sleeve combo the cost is great 10 to 50 depending on size we are hoping to fall into the 10 to 15 range the install seems easy grease the sleeve push in the bushing grease the pivot grease the sleeve press the sleeve in done
the trick is removing the original bushing and sleeve running some ideas i have a heat gun and set of torches the torches for sure but the smoke and soot we are concerned about heat stressing the sleeves and too punch out the center on a press doesn't look like the engineer's designed that into the system the old school suspension is friendlier or at least the upper control arms photos will follow :D
keep u updated

ok i have been talking with Bruce at some ware house that specializes in custom orders he's got a set of bushings for me but ..... he has to order a 1000 but..........he's got sa set in stock for 65.00 bucks waiting on a reply for the dimensions then i will slap down my visa :)

Remember that your M body shares the same suspension as an F body. Try looking for those instead.

i did not no that i will check it out

I used poly in my entire suspension on my cuda EXCEPT on the lower control arms,several mopar guys here said that the poly tends to walk out and lead to a failure so i used rubber bushings in those [which were the worst ones to do]. Also use plenty of the supplied grease i suppose i did not pit enough on or missed one cause mine squeak a little [especilly when it's cold].

i will be sure to grease the Bojangles out of them if possible maybe install grease fittings see wat happens
on your lower control arms does the torsion bar goes through the lower bushing ?

The L.C.A. pivots on a pin/shaft type that attaches to the k frame, the other end of the LCA has the stopsign type recess that holds the torsion bar forward end. To remove the LCA first support on jack stands,remove wheels,loosen the bolt on the k frame [froward part of piviot],loosen the height adjusting bolt [it's in between the control arm sides] back it all the way off [do not remove it] the torsion bar should have no tension on it,remove the spindle. On the back of the torsion bar crossmember locate the spring clips remove them and remove the torsion bars [DO NOT USE VICEGRIPS OR ANYTHING THAT WILL SCRATCH THE TORSION BARS IN ANY WAY THEY WILL CRACK OR FAIL EVENTUALLY THERE]. Once you remove the torsions you can remove the nut from the front and remove the LCA. Now comes the difficult part they do make tools to do this but it can be done the back yard way [a press is needed for removal and assembly] this part is easier to show than to explain basicly your saving the outer shell and removing the rest [don't tearup the pivot shaft you'll reuse that] they can be replaced they make them [i reused mine] Here's a drawing excuse the crudity of my notes.

Gort's try this link [the L.C.A.s have been the same for years].
http://www.dippy.org/svcman/sm02.html#LOWERCONTROLARM

my torsion set up is different they come from the front and have a bend in them they don't go through the lower control arm i will try to locate a picture
they attach to the outside of the lower control arm near the lower ball joint

That is your sway bar for the front suspension.

the sway bar attaches next to it as well i just replaced it about 6 months ago with a 1 5/8 bar from addco at least i think its 15/8
the torsion bar is next to it the mount is big

wow found a new link SPRINGS AND THINGS they are closed now but i will call in the morning they claim to have poly kits for m bodies looks like my troubles are over :dance: