66' Fury regulator lead direction?
 

Once what I thought was a good idea wasn't.

I updated my 66' with all new MSD ignition 6AL box, coil, the whole nine yards.

Whilst removing parts, I removed my voltage regulator.

Now I am having a charging problem.

Once trying to install a new regulator, I ran a new wire to the FLD on the alternator all the way to the new regulator.

Now I am sitting with my problem... The new regulator does not specify where the other lead goes.

Can someone please help with this matter ASAP please.

Check this other thread
https://moparforums.com/forums/f84/v...gulator-11861/

It is not clear to me WHAT regulator you bought????

Did you buy a 70/ later regulator that looks like this?

http://www.bmcuda.com/prodimages/lar...50NOS469-1.jpg

If you did, you cannot use that with the older (69/earlier) alternator with only one field connection.

If you want to use that regulator, you must buy a 70/ later alternator which has TWO insulated field connections, known as "isolated field" and incorrectly referred to my many as "dual field." Looks like this, this is a later "square back". Isolated field units also came in the inferior "round back" which look almost exactly like the old 69/ earlier grounded field which was original on your car

Isolated field, 70/ later, "square back"

http://www.classicindustries.com/ima.../7/7024_v2.jpg


Now all of this has been FURTHER complicated by the REBUILDERS. When isolated field units first got popular, the rebuilders were short of cores, so they took 69/ earlier grounded field units and MODIFIED the case so that they could install an insulated brush holder. These are inferior, and in some cases had grounded brush holders ALSO mistakenly installed OR the aftermarket added brush BECAME grounded which caused problems. AVOID these like the plague. In addition, the SQUARE BACK design gives you superior low RPM charging.

ADDITIONALLY you can also use the later square back units on the 69/ earlier regulators by simply grounding either field connection, and hooking up as if it were an earlier alternator

Round back, 69/ earlier, but modified for isolated field, BAD:

You'll have to click this one:

At the very top, 12 o'clock, you can see the hole the rebuilder drilled for the isolated brush. The original grounded brush mount is at the bottom

http://www.hemmings.com/story_image/...00-0.jpg?rev=1

REGULATORS

You can use a 69/ earlier regulator with ANY Mopar alernator, as I said earlier, by grounding the extra field terminal on a 70/ later alternator.

Please buy a good one, and Echlin/ NAPA VR-1001 or Standard VR-128 are they. They are expensive, and don't look original, but they WORK

Regulator
 

I have the square back alternator pictured in your reply. I had already picked up a BWD brand VR-101 from Advance auto a few days ago.

/Users/ashleyruskavich/Desktop/$(KGrHqVHJDUE+Onb0rzvBP4kYR3zcQ~~60_12.JPG

On the right side of the regulator as you see, it has a FLD set screw that goes to the FLD on the alternator. The other end is where I am in mystery about on where it leads to.

Thank you so much for your help!

OK I STILL don't know what you have for a regulator Your part number is not a BWD number, and I'm not sure what brand VR-101 is as Advance sells several brands. The photo you tried to post "didnt'

1---Do you have the one I pictured earlier? The 70/ later type?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

2--Do you have one that replaces directly your old one, ie like this:

(Standard Motor Products VR101)

http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/ima...tail/VR101.jpg

or do you have one which appears similar to the two numbers I posted, IE Standard VR128/ NAPA/ Echlin VR1001?

Like this?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

If your answer is 1, (70/ later) you run one new wire to the 2nd field terminal, and use this diagram:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Dua...tor_Wiring.jpg

If your answer is 2 (original replacement) The screw terminal hooks to your original field (green) wire and there should be a blue pigtail with a "push on" connector which matches the IGN terminal, the spade terminal


If your answer is 3, (69 earlier solid state high quality replacement) you simply hook the stud to your green field wire, and hook your original IGN wire, which should already have a mating connector, to the pigtail.

ALL regulators must have a GOOD ground, so scrape/ sand the bolt hole area clean, as well as the back of the regulator, and use star washers.

Sorry its been a while since reply...

My answer is #2. Original replacement. Now I ran a whole new wire for the field wire, as for the other connecting wire... I have no idea where as to which direction to look where it goes. If it goes to the fire wall somewhere, I am sure it is still there. I will just need to find it. On the block to the left of the master cylender on the fire wall, there is a wire with a screw down connector at the end of it not connected to anything but, it is black or dark-green no stripe no telling.

I am going to say green comes out of the wiring harness and goes underneath the screw on the the right and the left connection goes to the alternator. That's how I remember my old system in my 68 Dart. The square back alternator with two field wire connections ain't going to work with #2.

Sorry, Brem, you have it backwards. The screw terminal goes to the (green) field, and the push on terminal goes to switched 12 "igntion run"

There is only one 12V switched wire coming out of the bulkhead, and it goes to the ballast resistor, and the regulator. There should be 4 wires at the ballast:

Two blues on one end, and this should be the 12V side, which is where you want to hook your regulator. That wire may be "floating around" there somewhere, taped up?

On the other end of the ballast, there should be a blue and a brown. Leave that end of the ballast alone. That blue should go directly to the coil +, and the brown comes out of the bulkhead, it is "IGN2" the resistor bypass circuit for starting.