my heater hose was a bit long and the alternater plade nicked the hose
So as i figure i got this truck about 3 months back its good time to go thru teh cooling system

i replaced both hoses and the hose at the bottom of the radiator

i also replaced the thermastate (195)
i drove it around the block and over heated it boiled

i figure around 250 it boiled i tryed to do little bit more than 50/50 with the water and coolent

both sides of the thermostate were hot i had the pellet looking side down the side with the springy down

what turns the water pump?

i have an electric fan that is turning controled by a thermostat

no fan on the water pump. Is there there a gear in the motor that turns the water pump?

when i start the truck it squeels for abit i thought it may be a belt

but today it sqeeled a bit longer than usual.
any thing i could check to determine the cause?

its never overheated before

i have the red 5 year coolent im thinking there all about the same- my personal opinion.

thanks in advance- auerdoan

 

Just a wild guess not knowing the configuration of your pulley's and belt, I would say that maybe just maybe you had an air 'pocket' in the cooling system. They will do that sometimes when you drain all the coolant and replace. By a 'pocket' i am talking about it had air in the motor jackets, and not coolant. After it cooled did you add anymore coolant?

 

 

try looking for images of mopar motors and you will get an idea of how they are supposed to be set up.

 

I'm assuming from your sig, it's a 440, is that correct. Not knowing what we are working on here makes it hard to help. The pump is usually turned by a belt.

You mentioned you replaced the bottom rad hose. Does that hose have a spring in it, did the old one? That bottom hose could be collapsing. If so you can make a spring for it with a wire coat hanger, just coil it around something and install it in the hose if that's the problem.

 

the water pump is turned by a belt, which at least on my car, is connected to the alternator too

is it possible that the thermostat siezed? to check, drop it in a pan with boiling water and see if it opens up

 

my heater hose was a bit long and the alternater plade nicked the hose
So as i figure i got this truck about 3 months back its good time to go thru the cooling system

i replaced both hoses and the hose at the bottom of the radiator

Is there a spring in the lower hose? They can collapse and cause over heating.

the previous did not have a spring i will double check for collapsing
i also replaced the thermastate (195)
i drove it around the block and over heated it boiled

i figure around 250 it boiled i tryed to do little bit more than 50/50 with the water and coolent

both sides of the thermostate were hot i had the pellet looking side down the side with the springy down

what turns the water pump?

really? A belt that runs the alternator and water pump from the main pulley.

The belt must of been in my blind spot
there is a belt to the water pump


i have an electric fan that is turning controled by a thermostat

no fan on the water pump. You need a fan here Is there there a gear in the motor that turns the water pump? No

Like i stated i have an electric fan that is turning controlled by a thermostat it is working and the vehicle did not overheat before

when i start the truck it squeels for abit i thought it may be a belt
find out what is squealing by listening under the hood when running. If it just happens when it is started you probably have a lose belt witch will cause overheating from slipping.
guess its time i go thru the belts and replace them.
they look ok but i do get a squeek when i start

but today it sqeeled a bit longer than usual.
any thing i could check to determine the cause?

its never overheated before

i have the red 5 year coolent im thinking there all about the same- my personal opinion.
Not needed get the cheap stuff



Another question would you recommend a performance water pump vs standard?

Thanks folks for the advice!!

 

if your not sure if the belts are making the noise. you can use bar soap on the belts to keep them from squealing. or you can buy belt dressing.
either the hose is pinched, air in the system. or a faulty thermostat. even new can fail.

 

I agree...you should always fill you system from the water inlet...small block is the intake manifold....big block is on top of the water pump housing....pour you coolent and water into the opening where the thermostat opening before installing the thermostat....this will eliminate the possibilty of air pockets in the block and head...after you fill to the top of the thermostat housing install your thermostart and fill the rest of the system from the radiator opening..

 

!-does your fan kick on when it gets to opperating temp:??
2-you said the spring on the thermostate is going towards the block right
3-if all fails and your not sure of the new thermostate take it out and see if it still over heats if not i would try another new one but go to a 180*
4-if your belts are squealing when they are tight it means to get new ones as they could be slipping to much and not turning the pump to speed
5-also check what badsport says about the lower hose with the spring in it.....other than that let us no if its still over heating k

 

Another question would you recommend a performance water pump vs standard?

Thanks folks for the advice!!

Standard should be fine, no sense in spending extra when stock works. Get one for air conditioning it will flow a little better and I think it has an anticavitation impeller.

 

Still over heating the electronic fan is rated at about 1000 CFM i looked up the p/n

and the thermostat is sitting outside waiting for air to push threw the radiator and hit it before it turns on.

im thinking of replacing the water pump

i see one at 440source.com

and im going to measure the radiator for a new electronic fan.

im curious; ive seen fans that draw 30-50 amps should i be concerned about the current ability of my alternator
sounds like i should measure the amps on the alternator too.

what are your thoughts on the amount of air flow (cfm) from the fan

any preferred but affordable fan suppliers out there i see them at 300 bucks
ouch..
going on a 8 cyl 440

 

Try what I did in my Dart...look up a 2006 Chevy HHR fan at RockAuto.com...it's 60 bucks...go to the electrical connector section and get the repair connector 29 bucks...good for 2300 cfm and only 14 amps it will cover a 26" radiator very good...don't go cheap on the 449 Source pump...get you a stock 8 blade one from auto parts store...they are used on the cars with a/c for extra cooling capacity

 

I was running a Afco 22" core aluminum radiator with a 2400 cfm flex-a-lite pusher fan ,and a 17" flex-a-lite 5 blade fan. With all that my car still ran to hot,and the 65 amp alternator was worked to its limits even with a relay.
I replaced the radiator with a Champion 26" core radiator that bolted like the factory one ,and accepted a factory fan shroud. Problem solved, I no longer need the pusher. I got the radiator from Reliable Radiator on ebay for $289 delivered. They have a 60 day back,lifetime warranty,
they make radiators for all applications ,2 to 4 core. Check them out I'm glad I did. Bob

 

That Champion really looks nice!
1. opened up the thermostat housing verified.
2. replaced the water pump.
3. took the thermostat from the puller fan and carefully pushed it into the radiator This should be better than just sitting next to the radiator.

before putting the thermostat back on i filled as much as i could of cooling fluid. .

after starting the engine i ran it for a while watched it closely luckily the fan had a adjustment pot when the engine was around 190 i turned the pot till the fan started.. ideally for me im thinking this is a low amperage fan under 15 amps i want the fan off when i turned it over but just after it can turn on. I dont think i want the extra amp when i starting it

it looks like at idle its about 210 and around 220-230 driving it around . im a little concerned
this was only stop and go traffic about 30mph, i didn't take it too far from the house. i think if i drove faster it would cool more.

i think the previous owner had the truck set up as a puller not a street rod not sure yet i want to get a dyno done.


i noticed that when parked i feel a little air actually blowing threw the radiator from the puller fan the majority i mean lots!! is to the engine .. i this usual?

i think i want to up grade the radiator in the near future. The Champions seem ok priced just ok with the fans not knowing if any electronics come with it.

Im not sure on the age of the current radiator it may have some clogged passages.
and if im right about the engine tranny set up as a puller i want a reliable cooling system

 

When it starts to warm up check the lower send hose from the radiator ive seen one just collapse and suck shut then soon after overheat if it collapses you can get another new hose with a spring inside to prevent that

 

[ Quote ] the fan had an adjustment pot when the engine was around 190 i turned the pot till the fan started..

Could this have been the original problem? Maybe set it to turn on sooner?

[ Quote ] its never overheated before

This makes me think you need to check that bottom hose for the spring. I didn't notice if this was done. Being as nothing else was touched why would you start throwing money at other parts? You do not need to fill the block before you put the thermostat in, just drill a small hole in it and the air will be able to escape. Now you can change the coolant with out touching the thermostat housing. Make sure the stat is in correct. That's all I can think of for now. Let us know how it goes.