Chrysler 318 Info Needed
 

I have a Chrysler 318 block that was cast in November of 84, I believe it was pulled from a 85 Dodge Diplomat. I currently have it in a 1982 Volvo Wagon, and I was talking to a friend of mine about it who knows a good bit about Mopars. And he was surprised when I told him it had roller lifters and cast #302 heads. Now I'm not 100% sure that the engine was out of a Diplomat. Could you give me some info about this model engine, And was it rare for the 318 to have roller lifters and cam for that year? It was a 2 barrel car and intake engine when I got it, And I know those were original with the engine. And what could I do to gain horsepower for kinda cheap for that 318, I already have a 4 barrel intake and Edelbrock 600 carb. I do not want to replace the cam or valve train. Because Mopar stuff is not cheap, and I am running on a budget.

According to this.......

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/LA-V8-en...ead-swaps.html

Factory roller cams were first put in LA blocks in 85 in cars

I'm not sure it matters what it was out of. There's "a joint" called Oregon cam regrinders who could carve out a little more cam for you

(What's strange, is, they are in WA, not OR, LOL)

http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/

If you don't want to replace the cam, you won't gain much, unless you don't have dual exhaust. Good manifolds will help, depending on what's on there now

I have stock manifolds, But one is badly cracked, I think I got it way too hot before I rebuilt the engine. I'm thinking about getting some block huggers, and there will be a dual exhaust.

you may not have cracked it your self. i had 84 ply with 318 that was cracked from the factory. with the mild cam an Edelbrock 600 carb. will not help a lot. except getting rid of the vac leak. my 84 ply block had some machining to use the roller lifters, but didnt have them. you might try to find a good stock 2 bbl and manifold. they should be cheap to free. but pay attention to the details chrysler changes things from time to time. some things to look out for is the size of the heater hoses. and use anti seize-compound on ALL threads in the manifold. and check the part of the manifold next to the distributor base that they dont hit each other, before you bolt it on for good.

I pulled the heads off, Found a wedge shaped combustion chamber. I think the 318 is an LA engine. I bought the engine for $200, and the car for another $200. I think I made out good on that deal. And I already have a 4 barrel to put on it, It had the stock 2 barrel when I got it. But the engine was starving. I figured a 4 barrel in intake would make it more lively.

It is very important to figure out "what you have." I assume you have checked the block casting numbers? This is what would have told you the date

I'm not sure how to tell an LA from a Magnum but "in general"

Since you have the heads off

Magnum will have stud type rocker mounts

LA will have rocker shafts

Most important, the major difference between an LA and Magnum block is that the Mag block has no oil passage to the heads as did the LA

If you have checked the block date and know it's in the mid eighties, then it MUST be an LA

The data was 10-27-84, so making it for a 85 car. The rockers are shaft mounted. Not sure about the oil passages, I will have to have another look.

If the engine has been running OK that is getting oil to the rockers, with shaft mount heads, then it has to be an LA. From what you've said already, that would have to be the case.

Sweet, Do you have any idea on how much they 318 LA would run for? I only bought it for $200

you will drond that motor with that induction set up
the motor doesnt have the heads or cam for that much cfm it was mentiond earlier headers and duals are your best bet
that block is the same as im using now and the cam im using is a non roller type
so thats not a issue .
head work ..if you can have some port work and stuff some valves in them ....pricy , or a set of 360 heads and a nice 268 duration cam .

You don't know "what" induction setup he has???????????

The induction system 4 bbl carb and 600 holly on a 85 roller cam lean burn 318 is overkill
he will double the cfm capability on top of a cam that will not alow that type of flow ..with out forced induction
his best bet for increased power is duals and headers

My point is you don't even know what "induction system" he's got. Could be anything from an old 273 factory Commando intake to a tunnel ram.

Well apparently he doesnt either
your point is taken he may have a 4 bbl intake from a police la ..thats great
and if he gets a tuner kit from eddi maybe he can get it to work nut as soon as the cam hits its max flo well ...
a proper tuned 2 bbl will pull as hard as a 4 bbl up to 70 80 mph so with that typed...
with all things being equal 2 bbl 4bbl his bigest performance gain would come from a set of headers and duals he will notice a differnce in his low mid and upper end power.
befor I moded my 86 roller, leanburn 318 pictured in avitar I swaped carb dizzy and installed headers w/ duals ...not all at once though 1st wk induction second exhuast.
thus my performance as above

Pfff, I ended up getting a mild RV cam, and cam kit. There went $1,100. I'm pretty sure it can handle 600cfm's, even if I never got the cam. I have seen up to 650's on plenty of 318's. With just after market Weiand 8007's ontop.

Glad you returned with an update. 600-650 cfm no problem. Do you know what cam specs, lift, duration and LSA (lobe separation angle).

The good thing about the roller is you won't have to use additives and can use synthetic oil if you want, plus any future cam change means same lifters and no cam break-in.

How far are you going with the engine rebuild?

Copied the specs from summit.

Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,500-6,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 242
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236 int./242 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 286
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 294
Advertised Duration: 286 int./294 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.544 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.541 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.544 int./0.541 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

As far as the rebuild, I have replaced just about everything besides rockers, shaft, connecting rods, pistons, and crank haha.