Help Needed - 1971 Challenger R/T
11-29-2009 | 07:53 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Help Needed - 1971 Challenger R/T
Hello all. I am new to the group and in need of a little advice/direction. I am a girl who has just bought her first muscle car and all the men (mechanics) I meet give me contradicting advice on how to fix my car. If anyone could tell me their experiences on the below issues and provide advice for the best products to use for the E-Body - I would really appreciate it.
1. Ignition systems: Accel, MSD, or Mallory? I currently have Accel but when people look under the hood they all shake their heads. One guy says that Mallory is best as long as you have more than one ground.
2. Converting manual front drum brakes to Power Disk with a booster - Which kit to buy? Don't want parts from China (which is a risk if you order from Summit) One mechanic says to piece it together...One mechanic advises a $1,300 kit from PST and then wants to charge me $1,000 to install. Ceramic or semi-metallic pads? One guy recommends "Brembo" with a minimum of slotted braked.
3. Is it ok to replace one window? Someone must have done some interior work to the car and there is a sandblast/pitted residue that won't come off the passenger side window. Windows are $200 a piece - even the back triangles. But it is only the passenger window that is bad.
4. Carburetors - A tricked out Holly 750 HP-S (no vacuum) or 770 Avenger Series (w/vacuum).
5. Headers - TTI Ceramic coated or normal Hooker Headers?
6. Spark plugs - Is it true that you cannot use Platinum plugs in these cars?
7. Oil - One mechanic convinced me to switch out to Royal Purple Synthetic Blend, but other guys are telling me Mobile One is the way to go.
I know that everyone has their own way of doing things and that opinions are very subjective - I am hoping that the members of this website have gone through similar problems and that I can benefit from their experiences. Money is not the issue - I just want it done right - the first time - so that I can enjoy the car now instead of spending all my weekends at a mechanics shop funding their retirement! Being a girl has it's disadvantages.
Thanks in advance.
1. Ignition systems: Accel, MSD, or Mallory? I currently have Accel but when people look under the hood they all shake their heads. One guy says that Mallory is best as long as you have more than one ground.
2. Converting manual front drum brakes to Power Disk with a booster - Which kit to buy? Don't want parts from China (which is a risk if you order from Summit) One mechanic says to piece it together...One mechanic advises a $1,300 kit from PST and then wants to charge me $1,000 to install. Ceramic or semi-metallic pads? One guy recommends "Brembo" with a minimum of slotted braked.
3. Is it ok to replace one window? Someone must have done some interior work to the car and there is a sandblast/pitted residue that won't come off the passenger side window. Windows are $200 a piece - even the back triangles. But it is only the passenger window that is bad.
4. Carburetors - A tricked out Holly 750 HP-S (no vacuum) or 770 Avenger Series (w/vacuum).
5. Headers - TTI Ceramic coated or normal Hooker Headers?
6. Spark plugs - Is it true that you cannot use Platinum plugs in these cars?
7. Oil - One mechanic convinced me to switch out to Royal Purple Synthetic Blend, but other guys are telling me Mobile One is the way to go.
I know that everyone has their own way of doing things and that opinions are very subjective - I am hoping that the members of this website have gone through similar problems and that I can benefit from their experiences. Money is not the issue - I just want it done right - the first time - so that I can enjoy the car now instead of spending all my weekends at a mechanics shop funding their retirement! Being a girl has it's disadvantages.
Thanks in advance.
11-29-2009 | 11:43 PM
#2
Mopar Lover
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 837
Likes: 2
From: Springfield NE
Wow that is a lot of questions! But that is ok, that is what we live for here.
Ignition. I like tha MSD's or just the stock electronic mopar stuff.
Brakes. Master power brakes makes a conversion that is just like the 74 Dart disc brake setup which would work good on the chally and be interchangeable with stock parts. You could even upgrade it to 11.75 rotors. If you could find a 73 to 76 dart/duster etc. disc setup , it would bolt up to your chally with minor mods. {check into the "MOPAR ACTION" disc brake articles(google)} Only other cheap way to go would be the "scarebird" set up. (google again)
Window: swap it out if it has the same tint as the other side. Other than that, you could try to polish it out. {E body stuff is expensive}. (hey you cant see both sides at the same time anyway).
Carb: 770 holley with vacuum. (or edelbrock AVS style carb good also)
Hedders; TTI ceramics but they are high $$$. Hooker good alternitive. (you can get them coated yourself).
Spark plugs: just use the appropriate Champions or 2nd choice, Autolites
Set gap wider for electronic ignition.
OIL: Use valvoline 10W 30 AND (important) add some comp cams additive (the kind they sell for breaking in an engine, it has zinc-phosphate in it. Very important for the older engines) synthetic oil is ok if your engine doesn't leak at all. (think $$$) synthetic is good if you are trying to wring out every last bit of HP out of a fresh motor. On a older motor, its not gonna matter that much. (just my opinion, the guys on here will argue with me on this I bet.... oh well..... most importantly.......ENJOY!!!!
Ignition. I like tha MSD's or just the stock electronic mopar stuff.
Brakes. Master power brakes makes a conversion that is just like the 74 Dart disc brake setup which would work good on the chally and be interchangeable with stock parts. You could even upgrade it to 11.75 rotors. If you could find a 73 to 76 dart/duster etc. disc setup , it would bolt up to your chally with minor mods. {check into the "MOPAR ACTION" disc brake articles(google)} Only other cheap way to go would be the "scarebird" set up. (google again)
Window: swap it out if it has the same tint as the other side. Other than that, you could try to polish it out. {E body stuff is expensive}. (hey you cant see both sides at the same time anyway).
Carb: 770 holley with vacuum. (or edelbrock AVS style carb good also)
Hedders; TTI ceramics but they are high $$$. Hooker good alternitive. (you can get them coated yourself).
Spark plugs: just use the appropriate Champions or 2nd choice, Autolites
Set gap wider for electronic ignition.
OIL: Use valvoline 10W 30 AND (important) add some comp cams additive (the kind they sell for breaking in an engine, it has zinc-phosphate in it. Very important for the older engines) synthetic oil is ok if your engine doesn't leak at all. (think $$$) synthetic is good if you are trying to wring out every last bit of HP out of a fresh motor. On a older motor, its not gonna matter that much. (just my opinion, the guys on here will argue with me on this I bet.... oh well..... most importantly.......ENJOY!!!!
11-30-2009 | 12:36 AM
#4
Mopar Lover
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 528
Likes: 11
Hello, I also have a challenger but mine is a 73. I love the E bodies. But anyways your questions. First off on the ignition system I would stay away form accel myself, I have heard alot of bad about it. But MSD is a good way to go. Also you could go through Mopar performance and just get a hotter ignition box, which my be the best way to go I dont know I havent tried it. But mopar performance is usually the best. As far as Mallory goes I have never used it nor have I heard good nor bad about it, your guess is as good as mine.
On your brake question, I went through this on mine a while back. But I ended up just leaving it manual though. It turned out I just needed to change out the master cylinder, they work alot better now. But instead of buying some expensive *** kit you should look into just getting a master cylinder and booster setup that was meant for a dart or duster or demon. I forget which it was but one of them was small enough to work for the chally's. I tried getting a stock challenger booster for mine but ended up being too big in diameter and would not fit. But like I said check around in some other model mopars and find a smaller one that will fit, buy some new brake lines to run. And BOOM! you saved your self an easy grand lol.
On the window thing my advice would be the same as theomahamoparguy's.
On the carburetor if you ask me I would say it really just depends on what size your motor is, but be warned it is possible to go too big with a carb. I had a 74 camaro with a small block 350. But it had a 750 holley on it, I had 3 different mechanics try to get it set right. All three said the same thing, its too big! Its pumping way too much gas in it and in return just flooding the crap out of it. I changed it out and put an edelbrock 600 cfm carb on it and holy crap did it have alot more power than I ever imagined it would have! lol
Headers well its really your preference there but like theomahamoparguy said the TTI ceramics are good but very expensive. If I were you I would definately make sure to get some shorties! The guy that had mine before me didnt use shorties and now the headers are about 3 inches from the ground. You hit a slight dip in the road, and sssscrrrreeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaacccccccccccccccchhh hhhhh!!!!! lol so yeah I'm changing mine out. Also your probably thinking ride hiegh is probably too low. Well its not its actually a bit on the high side. But take my advice and go with shorties for the E - Body.
And spark plugs again go with what theomahamoparguy says. And I sold parts for a quite a long time at Oreilly's, I have never heard of not using platinums in an old motor. Just cuz shes old don't mean you can treat her like shes young!
Oil is really your preference, I am a fan of Mobil 1 synthetic. It will get you a tad more HP. Royal purple is racing oil and is supposed to be really good stuff but I am a poor boy lol and that stuff is about 8 - 10 bucks a quart. Just make sure you stay away from pennzoil. That is unless you prefer to have your lifters sticking and your motor literally seizing itself up the more it burns it.
Hope it helps!
On your brake question, I went through this on mine a while back. But I ended up just leaving it manual though. It turned out I just needed to change out the master cylinder, they work alot better now. But instead of buying some expensive *** kit you should look into just getting a master cylinder and booster setup that was meant for a dart or duster or demon. I forget which it was but one of them was small enough to work for the chally's. I tried getting a stock challenger booster for mine but ended up being too big in diameter and would not fit. But like I said check around in some other model mopars and find a smaller one that will fit, buy some new brake lines to run. And BOOM! you saved your self an easy grand lol.
On the window thing my advice would be the same as theomahamoparguy's.
On the carburetor if you ask me I would say it really just depends on what size your motor is, but be warned it is possible to go too big with a carb. I had a 74 camaro with a small block 350. But it had a 750 holley on it, I had 3 different mechanics try to get it set right. All three said the same thing, its too big! Its pumping way too much gas in it and in return just flooding the crap out of it. I changed it out and put an edelbrock 600 cfm carb on it and holy crap did it have alot more power than I ever imagined it would have! lol
Headers well its really your preference there but like theomahamoparguy said the TTI ceramics are good but very expensive. If I were you I would definately make sure to get some shorties! The guy that had mine before me didnt use shorties and now the headers are about 3 inches from the ground. You hit a slight dip in the road, and sssscrrrreeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaacccccccccccccccchhh hhhhh!!!!! lol so yeah I'm changing mine out. Also your probably thinking ride hiegh is probably too low. Well its not its actually a bit on the high side. But take my advice and go with shorties for the E - Body.
And spark plugs again go with what theomahamoparguy says. And I sold parts for a quite a long time at Oreilly's, I have never heard of not using platinums in an old motor. Just cuz shes old don't mean you can treat her like shes young!
Oil is really your preference, I am a fan of Mobil 1 synthetic. It will get you a tad more HP. Royal purple is racing oil and is supposed to be really good stuff but I am a poor boy lol and that stuff is about 8 - 10 bucks a quart. Just make sure you stay away from pennzoil. That is unless you prefer to have your lifters sticking and your motor literally seizing itself up the more it burns it.
Hope it helps!
Last edited by rcknrolfender79; 11-30-2009 at 12:40 AM.
12-12-2009 | 09:56 PM
#5
Mopar Fan
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Northern California, USA
Hey 77406,
Is your motor a small or big block? I had a 71 Challenger small block.
My 72 Satellite is also a small block and had good success with these componets.
1. Use a summit racing Part Number: DCC-3690426 igintion.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690426/
It looks like Mopar and runs like a Mopar. Not like a Chevy or Ford.
2. Why Chrysler put manual drums on is just a mind blower.
If you are going to convert to power disc, for a good conversion you will have to pay.
There are some good places like PST. I bought a conversion for my manual to disk but the booster
was to powerful every time stepped on the brakes, I thought I was going to go through the windshield.
The best bet is to find a factory doner car. Either a E or B body car that has factory power disk brakes and take the componets.
3. Yeah.... Replace the window if you have already tried to scrape the residue off.
Again, Welcome to MOPAR!!
4. Again.. Since we don't know the motor size, it's hard to make a option.
If it's a small block, both of those carbs are too big.
If it's a big block, we need to know if you want vacuum advance or not.
Are you running this on the street or the track?
5. TTI ceramic coated.
6. The platinum plugs are not a problem.
7. Oil.... is pretty much on how you drive, how much you change it and where you live.
No matter what you put in your crankcase, change it every 3000 miles or 3 months.
Good luck with your Mopar
Is your motor a small or big block? I had a 71 Challenger small block.
My 72 Satellite is also a small block and had good success with these componets.
1. Use a summit racing Part Number: DCC-3690426 igintion.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690426/
It looks like Mopar and runs like a Mopar. Not like a Chevy or Ford.
2. Why Chrysler put manual drums on is just a mind blower.
If you are going to convert to power disc, for a good conversion you will have to pay.
There are some good places like PST. I bought a conversion for my manual to disk but the booster
was to powerful every time stepped on the brakes, I thought I was going to go through the windshield.
The best bet is to find a factory doner car. Either a E or B body car that has factory power disk brakes and take the componets.
3. Yeah.... Replace the window if you have already tried to scrape the residue off.
Again, Welcome to MOPAR!!
4. Again.. Since we don't know the motor size, it's hard to make a option.
If it's a small block, both of those carbs are too big.
If it's a big block, we need to know if you want vacuum advance or not.
Are you running this on the street or the track?
5. TTI ceramic coated.
6. The platinum plugs are not a problem.
7. Oil.... is pretty much on how you drive, how much you change it and where you live.
No matter what you put in your crankcase, change it every 3000 miles or 3 months.
Good luck with your Mopar
12-12-2009 | 10:27 PM
#6
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 4
From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
RE: brakes The rubber flex lines at the front wheels break down over the years, and they will bulge very slightly. After almost 40 years you replace them with new or the SS braided ones and you should feel a difference. It doesnt take much to give it a spongy feeling. This applies to everyone. I recently had a clamp on the flex line of my 99 Cirrus rust and crimp the line down. With the high pressure it would let the fluid apply the brakes, but not let it return to the master cylinder. Made it look like a bad caliper. These lines are overlooked.
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