Stalling Problem...???
 

Just bought a 66 Dart with a 318 with a mild cam, idles ok until I put it in gear or when I come to a stop and then it dies. Haven't messed with this stuff for a few years so I need some baseline starting help; what should I set the timing and idle to? Car has a Edelbrock Performer manifold and a Edelbrock 500cfm carb with a mild cam. :confused:

Anyone???

You could have too low of an idle. You'll need to play with the setting on the carb. There are two screws in the front that take care of the fuel mixture. You should set those 1.5turns out from being threaded in fully (that is a good starting point on Edlebrock carbs). Then you can set your idle screw on your linkage so that you are idling at ~1000 RPM. When you put it into gear, the idle should drop down to ~700 RPM. You can play around with the mixture screws from there to get the right fuel/air ratio for your motor and then adjust the idle accordingly. (That is what I have done to some of the vehicle I have owned and I never had any issues.)

As for your timing, I'm not 100% sure where that should be.

Thanx for the reply!!! Just put a tach in yesterday and it seemed to idle at about 750, I will try turning it up a bit and let you know.

Any vacuum leaks? I had a bad hose on my PCV valve creating a mild leak and when I would slow down approaching intersections the car would die.

Well I checked the Edelbrock website and downloaded the installation manual and discovered the PO had some of the lines hooked up wrong. He had the PCV hose running to the rear of the carb for power brakes so I plugged that off and hooked it up front on the carb where it's suppose to go. Also the vacuum advance was running to the side for smog cars so I corrected that as well. Set the idle a little higher and took her for a run.

Seemed the same off the bat but got a little better as I drove it, actually didn't have to shift into neutral a few times! Idle now seems to be a little to high so I am going to turn that down a bit. Also think I am going to try and set the mixture screws as suggested and see if that helps. I have a sneaking suspicion the car might have a more radical cam then I thought and I might not ever have a really smooth idle anyway

Gotta also fix a leaking valve cover gasket now too...

sounds like a vacumm leak to me also, a big cam shouldnt die when you stop.

Good to hear on the cam not causing the car to die, will double check the vacuum advance hose but it looked tight and is new, I also hose clamped the PCV hose to make sure it wasn't leaking.

Wonder if I have a bad vacuum advance on the distributer? When I go full throttle the car runs great!

do you have a rpm meter to set your carb with as thats the best way to do it and you might want to advance it about a degree or maybe even 2 and also how long was it sitting for as the carb could be gummied up a bit and or you might want to clean your pcv out with some carb cleaner
those are just a few easy fixes i would try for now

Just put a tach in the other day so now I can set the RPM; don't know what I should set the timing at though??? Did check today and saw that it still has points in the distributer so I might change that over to electronic as that has worked way better for me in the past. The motor was just rebuilt and the carb & the intake manifold are both new. Don't know if it actually has a PCV valve as it looks stock and more like a breather, was even thinking of unhooking it and seeing how the car runs...

After 20 years of borrowing them, I finally bought my own vacuum gauge this week! Its the best way to set idle mixture to me. Also can help diagnose many other engine issues. Here's some things you can do with it.
http://www.visn2.com/UsingVacumeGauge.html

Latest update...Found the vacuum advance line to the distributer had a kink so I replaced it but didn't seem to make any difference. Did some research and started playing with the step up springs on the carb, put in the blue ones and it seemed to smell a little leaner at idle but still stalled when put in gear. Also found that when adjusting the idle mixture screw on the passenger side closed it had no effect on the idle at all??? Think maybe the blue step up spring is too weak for the cam and it's staying in the down position on that side. Going to try the stiffer pink springs and see if that makes any difference...

Vacuum advance won't help idle issues. I would check and double check for a vacuum leak first to eliminate that. You can do so with a propane torch (unlit) by moving it to all areas where you could have a leak. You will hear a slight increase in idle if you locate one. Secondly, after verifying no leaks, use a vacuum gauge hooked to manifold vacuum to adjust you're air mixture. Hook the gauge to manifold vacuum and with the wheels chocked and e brake set or someone holding the brake put the car in drive and turn the screws out to attain the highest vacuum reading on your gauge and then 1/4 turn more. Set your idle between 8 and 9 hundred in park and it should be 650 or 7 in gear. Take it for a spin and see if that helps. Also make sure your timing is spot on BEFORE adjusting the carb. Hope this helps.

Have pretty much ruled out a vacuum leak at this point; replaced the line from the distributer to the carb with a new one and sprayed starting fluid all around with no change in RPM. What should I set the timing at?

With the vacuum advance line unhooked at the carb and the port capped, I would start at 12* btdc with a total of 34 to 38 all in by 2000 rpm's. It helps if you have a dial back timing light. Once you get past 10* btdc you can't see the mark on the balancer. You may have to limit the curve in the distributor to attain you're desired total. I don't know what dizzy you are running, if it's a stock mopar piece then the slots need to be plugged to limit travel. Once you have the initial and mechanical set hook up the vacuum advance and give her a whirl.

Ok here is the latest...Looks like the switch to the Pink step up springs is in the right direction as the car now doesn't die when put in gear, it actually drops about 250rpm and is slightly pulling so you need to put on the brake. Looks like the problem is with the passenger side of the carb not working correctly as there is still no change in idle RPM even when the idle mixture screw is all the way in or out. I even tried switching the step up metering rods left to right with no change. Also noted the engine is surging at idle and I don't think this is all mild cam related rough idling.

Anyone out here good at Edelbrock Carbs???

OK so I watched the Edlebrock video on blowing out the idle mixture screws with air and still have no change on the passenger side when screwed in or out???

I have a very similiar problem with a 68 Chevy Chevelle 383 stroker engine. It is stalling when I let off the gas peddle and am coasting to a stop light. Then when I restart the engine it will stall everytime I try to go from park to drive. I gotta somehow keep RPM's up while shifting from park to drive. All the usual things have been done to the cer. sensors, timing, carb,fuel filter etc. Now they are telling me that my problem is with the HEI Distributor problem with timing and I need an ignition upgrade (new distributor, MSD High power box, and ignition coil). They also recommend a installing a stall converter. All of this will cost me the ONLY $2150! What I am afraid of is I sink this money into the car AND THAT STILL DOESN'T solve my problem because maybe I just a NEW engine! IDK. Very confused on what to do. Please HELP ME!!!!

I forgot to mention that this problems after the car has been driven for a about 30 minutes - in other words - good and warmed up.

Talked to a guy the other day who said it might be a blocked main jet or a bad carb, will try and have another go at it this weekend before giving up.

Well took the carb apart for the 2nd time today and blew out all the passages with air and no change!!! Even took out the primary jet on the non working side, found a little dirt & sediment in the bowels and jet area which I cleaned out. Think I got a bad carb that needs to go back to Edelbrock at this point as I am baffled.

Any other suggestions...

vacuum leak.

Think we might be getting somewhere...talked with a Tech from Edelbrock today who said to look for fuel running out of the Primary Venturi Booster while the car is running. Just had a look and sure enough on the bad side of the carb fuel was doing this!!! Can't wait until I call him tomorrow and ask what the next step is to fix the problem.

Talked to the Edelbrock tech guy today and I tried a fuel pressure regulator as he suggested and...

Ok now this is getting beyond ridiculous! The fuel pressure regulator had no affect on the problem, even tried adjusting it down to 4psi. Fuel keeps dribbling out of the brass primary venturi booster. Will be calling the tech guy back again tomorrow...

ANYBODY???

Took the carb apart for the 3rd time today, checked both floats for leaks and they are fine, set both float levels to 7/16' & 15/16' per factory specs and no change. Just got off the phone with the tech at Edelbrock and he said to put an actual fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line to check the pressure as he doesn't like the ones without the gauge on them. Other than that he is as completely stumped as I am. :eek:

HELP???

Just a thought man, Had the carb been sitting for awhile ? perhaps a circuit has been blocked with shellac ?
maybe take the carb apart again..sorry... and soak it submerged in lacquer thinner for a day and then blow it out and re-assemble.

No, carb & mani are new. All the passages are clear and I blew them all out again and there were no obstructions. Car is running less rich now that I adjusted the floats to factory specs and less fuel seems to be coming out of the venturi boosters. Still has a terrible idle from the dribbling fuel though and I find it hard to believe I got a bad fuel pressure regulator as the Edelbrock Tech is suggesting...

I've never played with an Eddy carb. If a float seat leaks and doesn't seal, float setting doesn't matter. Where would an Eddy carb overflow to?

Well this might be crazy but at this point I am going to through it out there... Is there anyway this could be related to leaking valve cover gaskets causing a vacuum situation in the carb??? Just noticed they are leaking and looking at everything at this point.

Man, you are reaching now.