timing help 383 1971 block
 

71 383.
Casting number g383

fittied with

MSD 6AL electonic ignition system with 7000 rpm chip
MSD blaster pack
Accel 9mm wires

Holley 3310 780 cfm four barrel & Large K&N airfilter

Weilend Team G intake Port size is 2.24" high by 1.15" wide. Manifold height is 4.69" in the front and 5.69" in the rear

Aftermarket Camshaft, connecting rods, pistons during rebuild. Not sure of what these components are. The Cam is lopey (sounds aggressive at idle)

Can somone wlak me through timing this beast. When I first bought the car it was a monster, but after playing with timing on another issue, I have lost that "sweet-spot" and the car doesnt feel the same.

I have tried to time it on my own, but not the results I desired.

Please any help would be great!

Where is it set now? deg of adv?

I have tried to time it, around 36+ but a) ticks dont go so far, b) I tuned it by ear at 2000 rpm after I tried and failed at 36.

Is your initial timing set? Say at idle, vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?

Ah, thats the biggest stopping block for me. I have no vac advance on my MSD ignition. Biggest reason why I have not tuned it myslef becasue all advice comes for vac advance etc. It is a mechanical advance that I am reasonably sure was set up right by the last owner.

MSD Part number: 8545
Chrysler 383,400 Pro-Billet Distributor

If assuming that mech advance is set proper, idle (initial) advance should be what>? 12 DTDC. I guess the real issue is the stock tab that shows the timing is hard to read. Should I just rev it to when the distributer stops advancing and try to set it at 36 degrees?

12 initial is a good starting point
if you have a lumpier cam though, push it more

I know what you mean about hard to read if you have a passenger side waterpump outlet. 12 deg is a great initial start. 36 is also good for "all in". You could try to rent or borrow a "dial-back" timing light. If you dial in 12deg, it will compensate and it will read as 0deg TDC, Dial in 36 deg, wind up the motor, and if you are right on it will read 0 deg TDC again. Got it? Clear as mud, huh? Or you could try a timing tape around the balancer. I did that, but I just used it as a reference to chisel in marks at 8-16 deg, 20, 30, 32-38, 90, 180, and 270 deg. Dabbed-in some white paint, wiped it off, and now I have a "Degreed" balancer!
http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_100_1427.jpg
https://moparforums.com/forums/%3Ca%...h_100_1427.jpg

Scott, I got a tape I bought but haven't installed it yet becasue I was unsure how to do it without removin the block... Its looked like a sonofa to get at. I am going to try to find a dial, I get it, don't worry I've been through the thought process and got it sorted out, no mud on me... nice pic. Thanks. I might do the same to my balancer like you did instead of trying to put tape on it....

The real question is what should it be... is 36 the right advance?

From what is the general consensus of all the sites I've seen, that 34-36 deg total timing seems to be the magic number for timing on Mopes once you reach your "all-in" rpm. That extra 22-24 deg above initial timing is called "centrifugal advance". That is the force that causes the weights inside the dizzy start to work against the springs as they want to fly outward as rpm increases, and increase the advance [initial+centrifugal=total]. Fuel burns at the same rate generally, thats just physics. So as engine speed increases, the ignition needs to start earlier. Depending on the springs, that rpm can vary. Now the all-in-by rpm depends on your build. Once again...clear as mud? Haha!

Yah, I'm on the level so far with what you said. I just wanted really to know how to get to the best timing. Ie. I do not have a a dyno. What indicator other than ear will help me get to the best spot on my timing.

so...How do I choose the right timing?

Is the heat of the block releavant? I advanced the timing once and took it for a drive and it got killer hot. I brought it back down by ear (at sons socer game....too late for tools) and ride home was fine...

Mechanically I understand the principles behind timing, but somewhere in my life I missed the leson on choosing the correct total timing. When I first drove the car (using my g-tech meter on open road, I ran a 13.5 1/4 mile... Now it feels sluggish and lacking in power... I lost my timing becasue I took the bracket off the distributer to detail the engine and bumped it out of place... it has been ever since then it didn't feel right.