383 timing issue or carb?

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Old 04-16-2013 | 02:06 PM
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383 timing issue or carb?

The car is a 1964 Chrysler 300 with a 65 383 in it. Stock heads and cam. Only upgrade is an intake, 4 barrel carb, and it has an orange box and electronic ignition. I started the car this weekend and had the timeing set at 20 degrees. The car was backfiring flames out the carb while starting. After a few attempts i got it started after setting timing at 14 degrees. I was only able to set timing while car was off. The only way i was able to keep it running once started was setting the idle at around 1,500. It still was backfiring out the carb with flames. I am right in thinking its a timing issue? Or could it be the carb?

1) What should timing be set at?
2) I have an aftermarket harmonic balancer on the car. What is best way to mark the timing marks to help set timing while car is running?
3) Lastly what is best way to adjust the carb? Its a Carter AFB 500 cfm.
Old 04-16-2013 | 03:54 PM
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Did you pull the dist. out and change it, or did this just happen all at once. I have never set the timming with the car not running,, cant help you their
Old 04-16-2013 | 03:59 PM
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If you did pull the dist. out you have it 180 degrees out pull it out and turn it 180 and stick it back in
Old 04-16-2013 | 04:30 PM
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Yes i did have the distributor out of the car. But would it run with it 180? I kept it running at high idle for like 15 minutes and seemed to running a little rough but not bad. It just wouldnt stay running at a slower idle.
Old 04-16-2013 | 04:57 PM
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I think it's time for a deep breath and back to basics. Three things I would do first.

1-Check and recheck wire order at cap (firing order, proper rotation).

2-Number one plug out turn until it blows for compression stroke and set rotor at #1.

3-Turn crankshaft back and forth until resistance is felt when trying to push valve springs, this will tell how loose the chain is. Can be done with fan by the belt or with a wrench. Actually I would do this first.
Old 04-16-2013 | 05:37 PM
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I turned the crankshaft by hand back and forth and felt no resistance either way.
Old 04-16-2013 | 05:50 PM
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is that 64 a lettered 300, or a series 300?
Old 04-16-2013 | 05:56 PM
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it would be just a 300.

You said 4 barrel intake and carb. Original intake and carb or aftermarket?
Old 04-16-2013 | 05:58 PM
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I forgot to say that with the big block and cap off you should see the rotor move immediately as you turn back and forth, this will confirm no slack in chain. If your confident then move on to the basic timing.
Old 04-16-2013 | 06:08 PM
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Yeah I went out there again. Its tight.
Old 04-16-2013 | 08:18 PM
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I have seen a engine run on 180,, not to good,,, Its 180 out if its backfiring threw the carb and exhaust

Last edited by PURPLE HORONET; 04-16-2013 at 08:22 PM.
Old 04-17-2013 | 01:59 PM
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It is a non letter series. I understand the letter series had the 413. Mine is a 383 and has an aftermarket intake and 4 barrel on it. The previous owner had put it on. I do not know what the intake or carb was off of. Previous owner gave me original intake and 2 barrel carb but they are packed away.

I was able to double check the wires. They are in the correct order. I will pull the distributor tonight and spin it 180 and see what happens.
Old 04-17-2013 | 07:30 PM
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i spun it 180 and now its really backfiring in the carb and not starting at all. Its popping pretty bad in the carb. I will spend more time with it tomorrow.
Old 04-17-2013 | 11:12 PM
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Did all this happen after you changed the dist, and carb.. Is the carb new or a used one.
Old 04-18-2013 | 06:33 AM
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The car sat for 9 years. In the last year I started working on it again. So in the last year I rebuilt carb, had the valves resurfaced, replaced head gaskets and removed the distributor while doing all this. So I had carb off, intake and exhaust manifolds off, distributor out and heads off of engine. I have done a ton of work on the rest of the car too.
Old 04-19-2013 | 12:01 AM
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From: TurkeyFoot NC
Originally Posted by Sjzdx
The car sat for 9 years. In the last year I started working on it again. So in the last year I rebuilt carb, had the valves resurfaced, replaced head gaskets and removed the distributor while doing all this. So I had carb off, intake and exhaust manifolds off, distributor out and heads off of engine. I have done a ton of work on the rest of the car too.
Just fixed a old mopar tonight doing the same thing,, the coil was bad..
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Old 04-19-2013 | 05:29 PM
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I havnt had time to get back out there and work on it. I plan on putting some time in this weekend. The problem still exists
Old 04-19-2013 | 06:42 PM
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i had a 1963 300 J with a 500 max wedge . and a 1965 300L stock 413, 4200 lb, ran 15.xx sec in 1/4 mile.
Old 01-08-2022 | 05:24 PM
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I have a 75 318 2 barrel that’s back firing out carb.
installed new timing chain, coil, distributor, wires and plugs. All cylinders have compression.not 180 out truck ran fine then suddenly backfiring. The carb was purchased new in 2019 did not drive for two years. No vacuum leaks. The only thing I can see that’s left is to buy a new carb. If I’m missing anything please let me know. I’ll order a carb tomorrow hopefully it fixed it.could the ecu cause this?
Old 01-08-2022 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Icepickchris
I have a 75 318 2 barrel that’s back firing out carb.
installed new timing chain, coil, distributor, wires and plugs. All cylinders have compression.not 180 out truck ran fine then suddenly backfiring. The carb was purchased new in 2019 did not drive for two years. No vacuum leaks. The only thing I can see that’s left is to buy a new carb. If I’m missing anything please let me know. I’ll order a carb tomorrow hopefully it fixed it.could the ecu cause this?
your post needs it's own thread not one from the cemetery.
This ones been dead since 2013🙂
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Old 01-08-2022 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Iowan
your post needs it's own thread not one from the cemetery.
This ones been dead since 2013🙂
thanks

Last edited by Iowan; 01-09-2022 at 07:34 AM. Reason: This guys an idiot
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