I have been searching for information on swapping out the k frame on my 73 challenger. Is there bushings on the k member that goes where the k frame meets the sub frame? If so where in the world can I find them? The help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone

 

On a Challenger No bushings Bolts directly to the frame If the motor is still in the car you can still change it Lots of padding on the fenders and a 4x4 & a chain

 

Why the swap?

 

I took my challenger to a shop because of some front end problems and found out my f frame was broke and my tortion bar sockets are wolered out. So I ordered one from dvap. I have tried to get info from so many places and I get it here I really like this place.

 

Thank you tvlynn.

 

I've changed several K members with the engine still in the car. The last time, I used a floor jack to support the engine. I put a block of wood between the jack pad and the oil pan. Other times i have used an engine hoist to support the engine. That way sucks though because the hoists legs make it hard to work under the car.
Mopar Action magazine did a K member swap on a 2 post car lift. They took a pair of steel tubes and spanned them across the engine from side to side. They ran long threaded rods into the intake and through the steel tubes with nuts and washers on top to hold the engine up.

 

I would like to have some expansion on this subject... I am doing a slant six to big block conversion on a '70 challenger and I am wondering what is the procedure for removing and re-installing the torsion bars? we plan to upgrade to heavier bars for the big V8 (of course) and are just wanting some info on getting them swapped out while the K-frame is out.

 

You can buy (ebay etc) aftermarket T bar tools. You can also make 'em. They are just smooth steel NO TEETH which clamp onto the T bars and give you a place to drive with a hammer. Important NOT to use any pipe wrenches, etc which will scratch and gouge the bars.

You have a shop manual?

Download one free here:

http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Mis...erv%20Man1.pdf


You can also download a 70 Plymouth manual for free from MyMopar. You have to argue with page numbers in this one:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Link:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/ser...ice_Manual.zip

Basically, pull the column and disconnect the steering box coupler. Decide where you want to split the front suspension, IE leave spindles on upper arms on car, etc

Pull the T bar retainer clips and drive them out. You can also remove the lower arm pivot nuts and pry on the LCA to move the T bar back. There was recent discussion that some have pulled the K forward OFF the T bars, leaving them in place, then driving them out the back after dropping the K.

When I "did" my Dart, I just used padding, blocking on the inner fender structure, a 4x4 across, and a chain and binder to hold the engine up

Even in my arthritic old age, it only took me a week in betwen snowstorms!!!! to accomplish it.

 

Motor is no issue... the whole car is basically stripped down to bare metal and ready to paint. We are thinking of upgrading the whole front suspension to an after market system we found that upgrades all the linkage, bushings and whatnot while maintaining the original torsion style suspension so this seems like the perfect two portions of this project to do at the same time. Thanks!

 

I'm trying to remember what the sight is called but you can get a tubeular k frame to help with weight if you are trying to keep it down I didn't see a price for it it looks good but it go yes away from the torsion setup. I'll look it up and post the link for you to check it out. The site is called magnumforce.com

 

For street The best thing is to remove the 1" wide lip on the K frame and re weld the seam. Then weld in reinforcements for the steering box Some good bushings and shocks along with some heaver torsion bars. With the tubular set ups where every thing is replaced and a coil over type shock is used you need a full roll cage