has anyone ever used an electric water pump for street use? I have a 65 sport fury with bored out 400 big cam . the car runs good it runs around the 190 to 200 deg. in normal traffic but temps climb at idle in heavy traffic wich i presume is normal for a big block I have 3 row rad fan shroud i took the flex fan off and went back to the 7 blade monster and installed an electric 16 inch pusher fan in front of rad when i finally break free of traffic she cools right back down and I was told because at idle or low rpm im not moving coolant so the electric fan is basically useless is there a remedy for this and can i use an electric pump and if i do will the electric fan be my only cooling car is being stored for now but i want to get her ready for spring.

 

I run a electric water pump and fan on my big block. It was bored .060 over and never reached over 210 degrees and never puked any antifreeze. I would stick with what you got and don't waste the money.

 

Do you have the big 26" radiator ?? 180 thermostat ? What is the compression ? Having the electric fan in addition to the 7 blade fan may work against you. You could try a water pump for an air cond car.
Or Make sure your WP has the 7 blade impeller, Stock WP housing ??

May need to verify that you have the correct size pulley on the WP

 

I am building a new block at .030 over and am going to try a high flow mechanical pump and a mechanical fan first. Then I will swap back to my electric pump and fan and see what the differance is. Should be interesting.

 

trk -

Make sure the water passages in the engine (and radiator) are clear. It may need a power flush. especially if it's an older engine that was recently rebuilt. Stuff collects.

Things like BIG aluminum radiators, BIG fans and a low (160*) thermostat are the way to go, IMHO, but if the water ain't getting through, it ain't gonna work.

Don't use an electric pusher fan and a flex puller fan at the same time, odds are they will fight each other. Pick one. For a street engine not needing every last HP, hard to beat a monster flex fan.

Archer

 

Just a thought for ya. Timing can greatly affect temp. I had the same type of issue with my 383. To improve the driveability I started playing with the timing. I had read that my cam liked a lot of initial timing so I tried bumping it up a little at a time. I went all the way to 24 degrees of initial with a 12 degree limiter in a Pertronix Billet distributor. Not only did I get much better driveability but I can sit in traffic all day long and it doesn't get hot at all. I know 24 degrees sounds like a lot but it still starts easy.
Like I said , just a thought.

 

I have the large rad , had it recored and a larger trans box done from scratch (cost a fotune,should have went alum) the motor was built from ground up. 73 400 hp block hot tanked magna checked I took out the cast crank used a 383 forged crank ,bored .030 ovr ,sealed power 10.5-1 flat top pistons,had rods beam polished resized rebalanced shot peened aar bolts,had the assembly (crank was reground .010 under) balanced ,906 heads with a fresh grind job and bronze guides, purple cam 509 lift all new push rods lifters and rockers and rocker shafts,and new oil pump timing chain etc etc. the only bummer is stock intake and thermoquad but had carb rebuilt so I dont think blokage is an issue im gonna get a new intake and carb set up this yr (i have an old offy dual quad manifold I got cheap at swap meet) it has the old 2/73 gear in back but thats going to 3/73 this summer just wanna keep her cool on cruise night

 

trk -

Great, you've done a lot of good stuff to the motor. Now go and have it flushed. Sorry, nothing you've done guarantees there's no crud in the water passages. Don't ask me know I know...

And go read the thread on dual quads...

Archer

 

I would say your compression ratio might also be heating you up some also.

 

Ok, went to mancinis on lunch talked to tech and im going to go with edlbrock water pump its hi flow and directs more coolant thru block at lower rpms than stock and ill keep all my original stuff cuz my water jacket has the lower hose on passenger side all the new alum housing are on drivers(dont wanna rebuy a rad) and wen I swap it I will giver a good flushing, I still have one of those old prestone kits you hook to garden hose

 

Make sure you come back and tell us the results. I will make sure I share mine. My new mechanical pump is the Mancini HV with six blades and an anti-cavitation plate.

 

First I would make sure you are not ultra lean..

And I know you said the heads got a new grind but did you check the valve to seat fit? I have seen heads ruined from heat when the valve sat in the edge of the seat and the heat stayed in the stem transferred thru the guide causing massive friction. It caused so much heat the hoses were popping off at idle.

 

Your on the right track about being lean.That would require some carb tuning.Have you ever done a plug reading to determine carb jet size??

 

Hey Bremereric, couple questions about your experience w/ the electric water pump.
How has that electric water pump served you? How long have you had it, both time and miles? Do you have it wired through a thermostat or constant on? What brand are you using? I have been thinking of going to one but haven't heard from anyone using one for a street cruiser. Thanks, Ken