Hello,

I can't seem to find a 2" Phenolic (the wood looking phenolic) cloverleaf spacer. I have found 1" phenolic (wood looking) spacer as well as 2" phenolic (but plastic composite looking) spacers. I heard that the plastic phenolic spacers can melt and warp with high heat and cause carb leaks.

Can anyone here direct me to a place that sells the wood looking phenolic 2" cloverleaf spacers?

I imagine they will cost more than $100.

Thank you in advance.

 

inri -

Why???

I'd go with a 2" aluminum spacer with either a single opening or a 4 bore, depending on what you need and be done with it. The ones you mentioned can all warp or leak. Yes, those might give a little more thermal protection, but a 2" aluminum should still give you more than 10*. (My 1" 4-bore, drops temp 6 - 7*, bottom to top.)

Archer

 

Thanks for the reply Archer.

I currently run a 2" aluminum open spacer. My motor is significantly built and I am getting vapor lock. I need to lower the temp around my carb and I'd like to increase my lower end a tad bit in the process too. Though, my main concern is heat and not being able to start the car after I drive it. It's embarrassing driving to a restaurant and having a lot of people give you thumbs up and chat with you about your car, only to have it not start! LOL

I've been told that the Wood looking phenolic greatly reduces heat going to the carb. Aluminium on the other hand is a great conductor of heat and transfers it quite well, which is not something I want to have next to my carb. I'm also going to wrap my stainless steel fuel lines with Thermo-tec tape. Got any more suggestions on how to eliminate vapor lock?

 

inri -

How hot is your engine getting, and do you have an infrared thermometer? That can really help with the diagnosis.

Vapor lock is more typical in the fuel lines than in the carb. Using the IR thermometer, I'd start poking around and try insulating the fuel line first.

To increase bottom end torque, you really want to go to a 4 hole spacer, instead of an open one. The open plenum spacer typically works for top end, and that's what I used when I was racing. Now, for the street, the 4 hole made a world of difference.

Archer

 

Archer,

The engine temperature according to my gauge reads about 180 when Im driving in 90+ degree weather. On the highway its slightly lower.

There is soooo much information on vapor lock, heat soak, and the like online, i'm starting to second guess what my problem might be?!. But I do know I don't like not being able to start my car when it's warm.

I literally just read a great article about the issue I'm having and how running a fuel return line can be the fix for vapor lock or heat soak by keeping the fuel cool and not bogged in the line. The electric pump feeds the fuel line that runs to the bottom inlet of the pressure regulator in the engine bay. I have one fuel line coming out on each side of the regulator (two fuel lines total) going directly to the Holley DP. The fuel lines are not near the head cover, as they sit at least 6 inches above going directly to the carb. The regulator runs just above 6 psi (6.25 psi at idle)

I'm not really sure what I must do to run a return line back to the stock 19 gallon tank to help with this issue? I think I might need to only use one of the outlets on the side of the regulator closest to the firewall to feed both pumps on the carb and then purchase a fuel line similar to the one in the link below:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3120-2

And then with the other outlet run a fuel return line to the tank?


Here's a picture of my current setup:



And yes those are quick disconnect fuel hoses LOL


Not sure why my picture isn't showing????

 

inri -

OK, I don't have any idea what's going on with your engine, so take this with a grain of salt.

Your engine isn't running hot enough to cause vapor lock, unless there's something really wrong going on.

I would pick up an IR thermometer and take some readings along the fuel line and carb base.

A simple test. When the engins is hot and won't start, pull the air cleaner and manually operate the throttle, see if anything comes out of the nozzles.

If there's fuel, quickly (before the engines cools), test for spark.

Again, can't see what's going on, but heat could be affecting your ignition system as well.

Right now, no bodies pictures are showing. Problem with the site and Tim is looking into it.

Archer

 

this is a great thread ...
i have issues also with heat soak and restarting
when hot the motor needs extra crank and some open throttle then she fires up but then...about 10-20 sec. she starts to run rough and try's to stall i have to keep the rpms up for a minute or so till she settles down when i look down the throttle bores she is dripping gas out of the venturies once the heat soak is cooled off she idles normal and no dripping gas
but check this out...when i get home after a long hot drive and shut her down the fuel tank starts boiling you can hear it roiling along in there and when i open the cap the release of pressure is quit noticeable i have the return line on the fuel system, it's the oem set up lot's to think about

 

Archer,

I'll pickup an IR thermometer today at Harbor Freight. I'll won't be able to test drive the car until the weekend as I'm waiting for a new speedometer cable, as the old one I threw out (got toasted from laying directly on a header)and the new one won't arrive till Saturday. I don't want to spill any transmission oil and don't have a plug for it.

How do I test for spark at that time?

Oh yeah, and I've also ready this issue I'm having could be the result of a bad coil!? Which may be caused by too much heat exposure.

 

inri -

Pull a plug wire and stick a screw driver in the plug boot, with the blade about 1/2" from something metal (don't YOU touch anything metal). Have some one crank the engine (or use a remote starter hooked up to the relay). You should see an arc.

If you have an MSD ignition, be careful and maybe this wouldn't be the safest way of testing. You don't want to be around the field when the thing discharges ...

I got my IR at HF too. It works great, but pick up an extra 9V battery...

Archer

 

Archer,

One thing I forgot to add is, even though when I'm driving around the streets @ 180 degrees when I shut the car off and grab a bite to eat for example, the temperature of the engine actually rises about as much as 20 degrees while sitting.

If I turn the car off and let it sit for 10 minutes or so and watch the temperature gauge it will climb to about 200-205. From there it will cool down.

Last time this happened I tried to start the car a number of times at different engine gauge temperatures: 200, 180, 160, 140 and it almost started to fire up at 120 degrees. It was too late in the evening to try again, but in the morning I fired the car right up.

I'm thinking my issue might be one of the following:

1. Bad coil (Replace with a new coil)
2. Vapor Lock ( Install phenolic spacer and wrap fuel lines with thermo-tec tape).
2A. Install a fuel return line to cool the fuel and allow it to be continually moving.

 

Gort,

I am by no means an expert on this but I believe you might want to keep reading this thread to hopefully learn a thing or two and even make a change or two to your car and that will cure your issue.

Hopefully others on the forum might chime in with helpful information.

 

Archer, I have an MSD 6AL mounted in the engine bay. You made me a bit nervous with your "be careful and maybe this wouldn't be the safest way of testing" commment, lol. Is there another, more safer way to test for spark?

 

inri -

It's normal for an engine (water temp) to rise when the car is shut off, since you've shut off the water flow and fan (unless both are electric and operated manually).

I'm sure there are inductive pick ups on the market (like what's on your timing light), I have one that 30+ years old and looks like a pen. It usually works... Just heard too many stories about people getting shocked, OK knocked on their butts from the MSD's discharge.

BTW - the gas tank does need venting of some sort, so you might want to check the return line.

Archer

 

Check the fuel pressure ? It could be flooding the motor when shut off, Fuel level could be too high also causing flooding too...

 

Archer,

I picked up the IR reader and a 90 degree inline spark plug ignition checker. I believe this tool will check for spark. I purchased both at harbor freight.

I will take a peek tonight at the gas tank return line (the other line on the back of the fuel tank right?? later tonight.