Hello
I have a 1965 Dodge Polara with a 383 4 barrel. I have a issue with this engine running hot. The normal running temp should be 160 to 200 F for this engine. I am finding the temp for this engine to be anywhere from 200 to 240. I have replaced the radiator with an aluminum 4 core and still have this issue. Can anybody give me an idea of what this issue could be. I want to cruise in this car but am afraid of this over heating issue. I have been told it could be a number of things from the conversations I have had with people. Anywhere from timing, intake manifold, water pump, etc....
This car has been fully restored and now I want to drive it and enjoy it

 

65 -

Does it run hot at idle (or slow traffic) or at highway speed?
What size thermostat do you have?
What fan / shroud?

How is your engine timed/jetted?
Do you know if it's running lean or rich?

Sorry, there will be a lot more questions, since we can't see you/the car from here.

Archer

 

It doesn't matter whether it is sitting at idol, highway speeds, or slow traffic it always runs hot


My father seems to recall that the timing was turned up. If the timing was turned up that would cause the hot issue?


There is not a fan shroud. It has the fan from the engine as well as an electric fan that has to be turned on with a switch under the dash


According to my father he seem to recall that there is not a thermostat in the car. I attempted to remove the housing in which I could not break the bolts free. I am going to try again this weekend. One question for this issue. Will I lose all the antifreeze when I remove the thermostat housing?


I am not an engine guy as to why I am asking these questions. Thanks in advance for any help that you can give me

 

65 -

Generic answers:

Back off the timing a little. No more than 10 advanced initial/30 total to start with. See if it helps.

Do a google search on reading spark plugs to check for a lean/rich air fuel mix.

With the car (engine) cool, open the radiator cap, and start the car. DON'T REV THE ENGINE.
See if the water is moving and how fast (confirms the water pump is working).

Drain the coolant, flush the cooling system (just in case).
Check for a thermostat, 180 is "standard", but I prefer a 160. Either is fine.

Make sure the engine fan and electric fan are blowing in the same direction (towards the engine).

Consider getting/making a shroud.

If you had an IR thermometer, that might help figuring things out by looking for hot/cold spots.

If you're not sure how to do any/all of these things, there are tons of youtube videos to get you started.

Archer

 

Thank you sir for all the info you have provided. I will start looking at the things you have mentioned here. The electric fan is on the front of the radiator and the engine fan does blow towards the radiator as well. When I stick my hand in front of the rad I can fell the air from this fan. you are saying that this engine fan should be blowing towards the engine and not the rad.


I did use a IR thermometer when I tested for the temps this is what I found
200F at the thermostat housing
210F at the front of the intake manifold and 241F at the rear of the intake.


I will definitely drain and flush the antifreeze and place a new thermostat in the car. I think I start with this first and then work my way down the list

 

65 -

If the engine fan and electric fan are blowing in opposite directions, you're reducing, not increasing air flow. With the engine off, start the e-fan and see which way it blows.

Since the e-fan is "optional" (you said it had a switch,) at highway speed, there should be enough air flow to keep the system cool enough without it being turned on. If not, then you have to look at the other things I mentioned.

With the IR therm, check different parts of the radiator (it should get cooler as you go from inlet to outlet), areas of the block/heads, manifolds and look for "unexpected" hot or cold zones.

Archer