727 a>b tailhousing swap?'s
 

I have a torque flight from a winnebago that needs to go into a 69 dart on a 440.
the tailshaft is all wrong for this thing. I have a 727a tailshaft will work with the car... can I put this shaft on on the 727 b tranny? If not can someone give me some suggestions? thanks for any help.

the 727a is a 1969 and the b is a 1973

Where are the pictures ?? 727's are all the same length? Unless it is a HD truck trans Is it a loadflight with a different shaped pan ? Any change in length would require the main out put shaft to also be changed ??
The 4 speed A833 does have a different length between a A body and a B body mainly for the shifter
Putting a 440 in a Dart would require a shorter driveshaft

I thought the A-body 727 was shorter also...

727a is for small block 727b is for big block. different bell housings, same tranny. different tailshafts.

wat tvlynn says is true also my brother and i got ahold of a built trany out of a eveco box truck my buddy bought the truck for the motor gave us the trans after we pulled it apart we relized everything was massive larger splines on the in/out shafts beefy steel planetary sets so we couldnt just swap tail shafts our decision was to modify the vehicle to hold the trany
we never did and the trany sets in parts shed

The bell housings of course are different I believe the tail shaft s are the same

727 and 904/999 are different lengths

usually they are the only time they change them is for the odd application rv truck 4x4 other than that they stay the same

no, big difference in the T housing.

What is the difference in the tails you have?

http://image.carcraft.com/f/newlook/..._trans02_z.jpg

why do you want to swap the tail shafts if its the out put shaft yoke size you can have a drive shaft made custom :)

it has a locking yoke, not a slide on. and it has bigger universal and shaft for the yoke

can u unlock the yoke you can always have a new drive shaft made with the proper yoke or just have one made for the yoke yiu have and have the tail end made for you rear end:)

sure it's just a nut. but don't you need that play like the slip ons have for suspension travel?

besides by the time I do all that I'll be deeper than buying a new used tranny... lol
Basicaly the whole point of this thread was to see if I could use what I have on hand and get the job done with out spending much or too much of a headache. I think at this point the best bet is to find someone who wants this tranny and pony up the $275 for the used bb 727. thanks for all the responses. all very helpful In making this decision.

I put a long shaft 727 truck trans in my Duster for the reasons Gorts 5th mentions. The only really significant mods needed were a different mount and a shorter drive shaft. The truck trannies had a deeper 1st gear, bigger planetarys and the valve bodies ran higher line pressure stock. It's like getting a built trans without the extra cost and time of doing it yourself or having somebody else build it for you. Shorter drive shafts are stronger too, all other things being equal.

They are not real street friendly in an A-body, but then that's not what the car is for now, either. :thumbsup:

we all try to use what we have on hand at least most of us thats why we hash it out here we try to give good advise from experience you got a good trany there :dance:
for 275 its a steel :naughty:
this is the cheapest thing to do if possible the yoke should still be removable a competent drive line shop should be able to get you the proper yoke and mate it to you existing drive shaft with all parts freshly rebuilt / balanced and all that for around 200
my drive shaft mod will cost me 170+ tax:) shorten new joints balanced cleaned painted not bad

UPDATE ON THIS ONE
my brother chimes in on this and say s pull it apart and see if the swap is possible he s under the impression that the important internals will swap into the original trany or the out put shaft will swap into the new either way you got to fully dismantle the trany

Bolt on yoke=needing a slip joint somewhere else. It wont work as designed with-out a 2 piece driveshaft, which in a car isnt practical. Changing the output shaft is the only work around, and never having torn down a 727, am not for sure what is involved to do so....

You could use a stub shaft yoke, which is basically a slip joint that goes into the front of the driveshaft. Probably pick one up in a junkyard from a early 90's Dodge pickup for not much money, cut it to length, etc, etc...

But I'd go with the output shaft mod first, if possible.