727 Wont Shift
 

A mechanic rebuilt my 727 and we put it in and it wouldn't shift out of first. Not thinking about it, we moved it around the driveway a few times not even putting a mile on it and we ended up frying it. Well he rebuilt it again and put it back in and it still wont shift. It's stuck in one gear which I think is first. When you try to manually shift it, there is no change from it being in drive. The kick down linkage is hooked up. We just put a new governor valve in it but that didn't fix the problem. Any ideas?? Do I need to get a different valve body and stick in it or is it something else?? Thanks in advance!!

was any other work done at the same time?

When My transmission was rebuilt I swapped over to a holley carb at the same time and the shift linkage wouldnt work properly. I needed to go and by the locar shift linkage and get that in there for it to shift to third. mine would go first and second but that was it.

This may be totally non related but just a thought for you.

The engine and transmission are both new to the car. I think the linkage is hooked up correctly. At WOT, the lever on the transmission is all the way to the rear of the car. Sound right?

Yep, kick down is right, but sounds maybe like sticking valves in the valve body... ( I AM NOT a transmission guy)... Doubt it is a governor problem, Maybe in the band adjustments, FSM is a handy thing.. Just spitting out possibilities... Is your mechanic an actual trans guy or just a mechanic that has rebuilt a few chebby trannys? ( NO disrespect meant). You really have to be a stickler for cleanliness and pay attention to all the o-rings, and lip seals involved. I have only done 2 trans in my life both being turbo 350's and lucked thru them, I worked in a trans shop as an R&R guy, but the guts of an auto gives me a headache...lol M2C is all and it dang sure dont go far...

Yeah this guy just mechanic work on the side. He's an engineer for the railroad. He is very clean though. We stuck the new valve body in yesterday and it fixed it! I took it out for a spin and it seemed to shift into third really early and I didn't even notice it shifting into third half of the time. When I would lay into it, I couldn't get it to kick down. I know the kick down band is adjusted to factory specs. The linkage is hooked up so that when at WOT, the transmission lever is all the way to the rear of the car. I'm not sure what it needs, any ideas?

:popcorn:Similar problem here hopefully someone here can help-I might just order the Bouchillion cable setup to eliminate the stupid linkage

i had a similar problem chk your kick down bands adjusted right
and some valve body kits have a set of springs for pressure and shift timing chk these
i am assuming the pump is good poor pump pressure can affect the shift
cable will hlp i use a choke cable wrks fine

Depending on your setup ?? What carb are you using ? The belcrank on the intake manifold has a 1/8" hole for a pin/ allen wrench/ what ever will fit to align the bel crank . Adjust the carb rod & then adjust the trans rod.. It is important to have the CHRYSLER linkage on the carb to make it work properly

Take a look at the throttle valve lever, it should be adjusted about like this and freely move back and forth, not running.
http://i47.tinypic.com/j9xyjl.jpg

Making it longer raises the 2-3 upshift.....make 1/4" adjustments at a time, to see where it (the shiftpoint) goes. A 318 should shift around 25MPH with moderate acceleration.

To understand how a 727 works, get Carl's book. Pg #44 illustrates what is happening in the valve body at the 2-3 shift.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/torq...roe/1101076599

and watch a few vids by this guy.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Autotransmissions

An overhaul is not that complicated, if you take your time.

Red factory manuals from the seventies/eighties are also very good reading.