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Anyone here running a Kilduff Lightning Rod shifter?
Stumbled upon these while doing some shifter research
http://www.kilduffmachine.com/ Dude sounds like a bit of a nut, but the shifters look to be solid :cool: I'm curious about reverse/park lock-out though :confused: Doesn't look like there's a second action to put the main lever into reverse or park... Also, could you actually use that 3rd lever to go from 3rd to neutral at speed or would you have to slow down first since it will have to go through 2nd and 1st before hitting neutral with a reverse manual valve body :confused: |
The locking (padlock) feature might be nice ??
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well well well thats great BUT iam NOT racing any more. and iam to old to do that labor after all i AM retired. but ti looks like a great product.
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Originally Posted by moe7404
(Post 114902)
well well well thats great BUT iam NOT racing any more. and iam to old to do that labor after all i AM retired. but ti looks like a great product.
I'm already running a RMVB with a Hurst Promatic 2 ratchet shifter and I love rowing throw the gears all the time (never gets old to me). Sure, it's more work than a regular girlymatic, but it's actually far less work than a traditional manual trans with a clutch :cool: (which I would actually prefer for a daily driver) I don't really see this setup being any faster than my current ratchet shifter, but it does look cool :) |
Sorry I don't like the looks of that at all. I got a smokin' cheap deal on a "Pro stick" and used it for awhile. Then I bought a Cheetah. It think both are over--rated. I actually have two Cheetah shifters, both seem not very worn, I bought used. The cables have the same amount of play. the damn things don't go deep enough into park. I had to machine the gate deeper for park
(I also believe the Cheetah is nothing more than a slightly modified Winters "I think" with a lot higher price.) The big think I dislike about various ratchet designs is if something should go wrong. If you break a rear axle or U joint and get the driveshaft floppin' 'round, it'd be nice to be able to easily slam it into neutral and coast WITHOUT worrying about getting it hung up in 2 or worse 1 or of course far worse, grating on the park pawl. I watched some of your video. Seems to me you have a LOT of 2-3 flare. Mine does that once in awhile at part throttle, but only once in awhile, and not under WOT. Mine is a reverse body with no 1st gear compression. I was thinking of just "mildly" entering AutoX to see how bad I really am, and that 1st gear could be a real problem. You obviously cannot get in/ out of the throttle with one in 1st, and 2nd may be too high |
Originally Posted by 440roadrunner
(Post 114913)
I watched some of your video. Seems to me you have a LOT of 2-3 flare. Mine does that once in awhile at part throttle, but only once in awhile, and not under WOT.
The reason for the flare was this little sucker :puke: http://www.fuelslut.net/ihost/files/...torcupfack.jpg Feed restrictor for the 2-3 clutch :doh: Whoever put the Cheetah valve body in, didn't remove it :naughty: Not that I blame them cause the instructions from Turbo Action doesn't go into detail about removing it like other manufacturers do :confused: Did a complete overhaul last week using blue plate clutches and kolene steels She's shifting fine now :clap: I'll try to get another video up as soon as it stops raining |
This is the video I spoke of...
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