help! transmission not changing correctly
#1
help! transmission not changing correctly
Hi from Australia
I am running a 360 magnum and A518/46rh transmission in my Australian charger. I am using a kick down cable and a carby. (Not EFI)
The problem i am having is- as a daily driver i have set the cable to a happy medium. Under normal acceleration it changes from 1st to second a little too early but changes from 2nd to 3rd a little too late. If i adjust the cable to correct one change it makes the other much worse so i have just split the difference and found a happy medium.
So when i go to the track it is a real problem for me. Wether i drive it manually or leave it in auto, it holds in 2nd far too long until my 6000rpm rev limiter kicks in and i have to take the foot off the fuel to get it to change. When it goes into 3rd it occasionally decides to kick back down to second again at 100mph. If i back the cable off it wrecks the 1st to second change.
Last night at the track it was a little intermittent. A couple of times it would change too early but most of the time too late. I tried one run with the KD cable off and changed at perfect rpm but it slipped badly into 3rd.
At the last track meet i put it on the dyno and after several runs the dyno guy said it was losing power somewhere. He thought the trans as the graphs showed loss of power with the graph going up the page rapidly instead of up and across the page. (DO THEY DYNO IN 3RD GEAR OR IN 1ST)
I was told last night that if i install a trick kit it would fix all my problems. But will it? If i install a trick kit will it still be controlled by the kick down cable and hang in second too long?
cheers Maca
I am running a 360 magnum and A518/46rh transmission in my Australian charger. I am using a kick down cable and a carby. (Not EFI)
The problem i am having is- as a daily driver i have set the cable to a happy medium. Under normal acceleration it changes from 1st to second a little too early but changes from 2nd to 3rd a little too late. If i adjust the cable to correct one change it makes the other much worse so i have just split the difference and found a happy medium.
So when i go to the track it is a real problem for me. Wether i drive it manually or leave it in auto, it holds in 2nd far too long until my 6000rpm rev limiter kicks in and i have to take the foot off the fuel to get it to change. When it goes into 3rd it occasionally decides to kick back down to second again at 100mph. If i back the cable off it wrecks the 1st to second change.
Last night at the track it was a little intermittent. A couple of times it would change too early but most of the time too late. I tried one run with the KD cable off and changed at perfect rpm but it slipped badly into 3rd.
At the last track meet i put it on the dyno and after several runs the dyno guy said it was losing power somewhere. He thought the trans as the graphs showed loss of power with the graph going up the page rapidly instead of up and across the page. (DO THEY DYNO IN 3RD GEAR OR IN 1ST)
I was told last night that if i install a trick kit it would fix all my problems. But will it? If i install a trick kit will it still be controlled by the kick down cable and hang in second too long?
cheers Maca
Last edited by maca; 01-18-2013 at 03:55 PM.
#2
The only time you don't need a kick down is if you have a full manual shift valve body. Sounds like a "trick kit" is just stiffer shifting, so you still need kickdown.
DO YOU HAVE a shop manual? A FACTORY shop manual? If not there's a few places you can download one, post back.
Read that section over CAREFULLY. If your linkage does not match your intake/ carb installation, you should be able to lengthen/ shorten the link as needed. Another option is to buy a cable kick down aftermarket setup such as Lokar
You can cause internal transmission damage if you don't have this properly adjusted, so don't take the problem lightly.
DO YOU HAVE a shop manual? A FACTORY shop manual? If not there's a few places you can download one, post back.
Read that section over CAREFULLY. If your linkage does not match your intake/ carb installation, you should be able to lengthen/ shorten the link as needed. Another option is to buy a cable kick down aftermarket setup such as Lokar
You can cause internal transmission damage if you don't have this properly adjusted, so don't take the problem lightly.
#3
#4
Sorry 440roadrunner I should have mentioned I already have a lokar cable.
Hey coronet500 I didnt even think about the position of the cable. I wonder if i even have it on the right hole on the carby. Here is a pic of my set up.
Cheers Maca
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Hey coronet500 I didnt even think about the position of the cable. I wonder if i even have it on the right hole on the carby. Here is a pic of my set up.
Cheers Maca
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Last edited by maca; 01-03-2013 at 05:32 AM.
#5
#7
Try here or search there site for distributors in your country.
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...parts_s/61.htm
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...parts_s/61.htm
#9
Hey guys
Here are the readings the trans shop done. The TV cable was set fairly soft so 1-2 shift changed fairly low so we could get the 2-3 shift for the tests.
Accumulator port
In Drive at Idle 70 psi
In drive Drive at stall 90 psi
Run on the hoist
1st 80psi
2nd 80psi
3rd 80psi
Reverse
had slow to rise
120 psi idle
250 psi stall
Governor
10 psi @ 20kph
20 psi@40kph
30 psi@75kph
40 psi@80kph
50 psi@85kph
60 psi@100kph
I read the governor should rise at 1psi per 1 mph but because of my tyre size and diff gears my speedo is out due to this trans being in a charger with 14" rims and low diff gears. It reads 160kph at about 100kph. If the speed is important I can get my gps and go for a drive and get the convert the actual speed. Hope these pressures help. Cheers Greg,
Here are the readings the trans shop done. The TV cable was set fairly soft so 1-2 shift changed fairly low so we could get the 2-3 shift for the tests.
Accumulator port
In Drive at Idle 70 psi
In drive Drive at stall 90 psi
Run on the hoist
1st 80psi
2nd 80psi
3rd 80psi
Reverse
had slow to rise
120 psi idle
250 psi stall
Governor
10 psi @ 20kph
20 psi@40kph
30 psi@75kph
40 psi@80kph
50 psi@85kph
60 psi@100kph
I read the governor should rise at 1psi per 1 mph but because of my tyre size and diff gears my speedo is out due to this trans being in a charger with 14" rims and low diff gears. It reads 160kph at about 100kph. If the speed is important I can get my gps and go for a drive and get the convert the actual speed. Hope these pressures help. Cheers Greg,
Last edited by maca; 01-18-2013 at 03:56 PM.
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