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non-lockup 727 with lockup valve body
I have a 1973 challenger 727 tf. I built the engine and it's making 442 hp and 468 tq at the crankshaft . Put the engine in behind the old 727 and she was doing fine but wasn't keeping up with the new engine set up ( shifting alil late at wot). So I decided to pull her out and do a shift kit and put in new racing clutches in her. Now I know this is strange but when I took the valve body out and saw the tube running across the valve body I thought nothing of it but after doing alil research and reading on the valve body from My 727 rebuild book I saw that I had a lockup valve body. Now I'm sure (positive) that the transmission is a non lockup 727 from the shaft at the front of the trans being groved all the way to the end (the a518 being the lockup trans having at the end a smooth .
My trans was fine and didn't have any problem except the slow shifts at wot . At low speeds shifts are nice and smooth. How does this work? Should I keep this valve body on or get the non lockup? thanks ahead of time guys. |
As a side note, one of my Imperials has a lockup transmision. When I had it rebuilt, it had slow shift from 2 to 3. I had a shift kit on it, and now reverse engages slowly, but I can live with it. The transmission has survived my hard driving (this is a strong 440), but I am usually careful to back off when shifting.
On a side note, what did you do to that engine? What rpm is your peak power and torque, and how streetable is it? Thanks. |
i am NOT a trans expert. but with a modded valve body the band adjustment is more important. the few shift kits i have done had the bands set different than stock. i think mostly the band adjustment is closer than stock. here is something i came across. an EXTERNAL filter.
man o man i about forgot yes its a cut & past sorry. __________________ after you clean the trans. add this to your*chrysler*trans. an external fluid filter 1. go to auto-zone. get 2210, its called a power steering filter, but it is for transs to. it is for 3/8 tubing. by (magna-fine) be sure to use high pressure hose. Reff:http://www.magnafilter.com 2. for other sizes wix 58964 5/16 tube size |
I would bet you do not have the throttle kick down adjusted properly
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Originally Posted by demetri
(Post 116116)
As a side note, one of my Imperials has a lockup transmision. When I had it rebuilt, it had slow shift from 2 to 3. I had a shift kit on it, and now reverse engages slowly, but I can live with it. The transmission has survived my hard driving (this is a strong 440), but I am usually careful to back off when shifting.
On a side note, what did you do to that engine? What rpm is your peak power and torque, and how streetable is it? Thanks. |
Originally Posted by TVLynn
(Post 116150)
I would bet you do not have the throttle kick down adjusted properly
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Originally Posted by moe7404
(Post 116131)
i am NOT a trans expert. but with a modded valve body the band adjustment is more important. the few shift kits i have done had the bands set different than stock. i think mostly the band adjustment is closer than stock. here is something i came across. an EXTERNAL filter.
man o man i about forgot yes its a cut & past sorry. __________________ after you clean the trans. add this to your*chrysler*trans. an external fluid filter 1. go to auto-zone. get 2210, its called a power steering filter, but it is for transs to. it is for 3/8 tubing. by (magna-fine) be sure to use high pressure hose. Reff:http://www.magnafilter.com 2. for other sizes wix 58964 5/16 tube size |
Thanks for the help trans is back in and doing great love the valve body mods . Nice quick firm shifts
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Cool .... :)
Time to head out to SGMP.... :) |
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