Mopar Forums - 2010 Dodge Avenger Rear suspension bushings

Here's a tip in case you need to replace the rear control arms and bushings on a 2010 or similar Dodge Avenger. I have been working on my grandson's car and noticed the RR wheel was cocked out about 10 degrees. I jacked it up and the wheel and tire would move in and out a good half inch or more. Found that the control arm bushings were completely shot. Not wanting to remove the entire spindle assembly, I decided to see if I could do it on the car. Thankfully, I have a plethora or air tools. Here's how I did it, I did not take any photos to share - sorry.
1. drill holes in the rubber part of the bushing, I used a 3/16" bit, Drill them as close together as possible.
2. once the inner bushing becomes sufficiently loose, work it out of the rubber, I used a pair of large vise grips
3. cut out as much of the remaining rubber as you can,
4. using a small pneumatic hack saw, available at Harbor Freight for about 20 bucks, make two cuts in the outer bushing case about a half inch or so apart. Be careful not to cut into the spindle assembly itself, if you do just a little bit, that's ok
5, use an air hammer with chisel bit to drive out the piece between the two cuts, the rest of the bushing will most likely come out with it
6. clean out any rust and burrs inside the bore with a dremel tool or straight air die grinder and drum sand paper
To Insall:
I tried several things before I came up with the best solution, so I'll share that one with you
1. find two large sockets - one that is the same diameter as the outer housing of the bushing and one that is slightly larger, or you can use a short piece of pipe, etc
2. get a long 7/16" bolt, some big washers and nut.
3. run the bolt through the smaller socket, the bushing, spindle, then the larger socket on the other side, install washer and nut.
4. make sure the smaller socket stays lined up with the outer housing of the bushing and tighten the nut, you will have to put a wrench on one end, butt it up against the body or frame so it doesn't turn, it will take some strong-arm to tighten the nut.
5. I also sprayed a little penetrating fluid inside the bore to relieve some friction and allow the bushing to move a little more freely.
About 15-20 minutes of tightening the nut drew the bushing into the bore until it was flush on both sides, always watch the small socket to make sure it stays aligned and is not pushing in on the rubber part of the bushing. All in all it took less than an hour for each bushing - 4 of them.
Note - the lower bushing is 42mm diam while the upper is 40.5mm make sure to get both sizes. I did both sides of the car even though the driver's side weren't as bad.
1. Installing the control arms can be a bit tricky, trying to line up the bolt holes.
2. Be sure to mark the cam position on the lower arm before removing, this is for the rear camber adjustment. I made two marks, one where the hole in the cam is and another about 1/4" away, just so I would have two points of reference. I used a permanent marker.
3. I used a small floor jack against the bottom of rotor center, (the part where the lug bolts come through) to raise the spindle into position, some gently twisting with a pipe wrench got the holes lined up so I could reinsert the bolts
You don't have to remove the brake line, caliper or anything by doing it this way.
In case you might think this is too time consuming I will tell you the other ways I tried
1. hammer it in place - not much room to swing, can smash your hand or fingers, messes up the end of the socket, and can damage or distort the bushing
2. c-clamp, I could not get enough torque, even with a bar over the handle, bent the handle.
Hope this helps any future control arm bushing installers.