B body subframe connectors

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Old 06-29-2011 | 09:49 AM
  #1  
Archer's Avatar
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B body subframe connectors

Gents -

Been thinking about adding subframe connectors to my 74 Charger. I've seen them advertised from $90 - 350, for either bolt on or weld on versions (prefer weld on). Installation looked straight forward, until ...

After a little research, it seem that on the B bodies, you have to "notch" the floor pan to get a straight line from the front to rear frame rails. Probably not as big a deal as it sounds, but has me a little leery on doing it / having it done.

Anybody with experience on this please clime in. Also would like to know if there are any preferences to brands, etc.

Tks

Archer
Old 06-30-2011 | 06:48 AM
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Anybody???
Old 06-30-2011 | 05:54 PM
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Mine is a 1970, I've heard the 71-74 selection is not as plentiful. Stay away from bolt ins, no strength. The other types that fasten to the trans crossmember back to the spring mount should be welded to the floor in spots. The best I've seen are like a "C" channel notched along the lenth to follow the floor contour then continuously welded the full length. I don't know if they are available for yours. They can be made from rectangular tubing with patience and cutting to fit. If you have the tools and skill i think it's the strongest by far.
Old 06-30-2011 | 07:26 PM
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Coronet -

Most of the decent ones require "notching" of the floor pan. That's the part I'm worried about. Trying to figure out if any are made with the recessing in the connectors, instead of the pan.

Tks

Archer
Old 07-01-2011 | 08:07 AM
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I'm curious now, can you post a link of the ones your talking about. Mine are from 2x3x1/8" tube and pass through the rear pssenger footwell, up about one inch and don't look too bad. The passengers feet are on either side of it. I've never seen the floor pan of the 71 and up, that's why I ask.
Old 07-01-2011 | 08:27 AM
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Found this, looks promising. http://www.uscartool.com/img/71RR/index.html
Old 07-01-2011 | 08:28 AM
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Coronet -

Here you go:

http://www.competitionengineering.co...10054&pt=C3047

And instructions:

http://www.competitionengineering.co...c3047_inst.pdf

Probably cost an arm and a leg to have them custom made to fit the intact floor pan, and it wouldn't give as solid a framework.

Archer

Last edited by Archer; 01-18-2012 at 07:05 AM.
Old 01-18-2012 | 07:04 AM
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Guys -

Gonna try this again.

Has anyone installed sub-frame connectors on a 73 - 74 B-body and if so, how???

Local guys are asking in the $1000 range for a custom fabrication. Since the car probably won't be raced anytime soon, any real benefit to do it???

Thanks

Archer

Last edited by Archer; 01-18-2012 at 07:06 AM.
Old 05-31-2012 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Archer
Guys -

Gonna try this again.

Has anyone installed sub-frame connectors on a 73 - 74 B-body and if so, how???

Local guys are asking in the $1000 range for a custom fabrication. Since the car probably won't be raced anytime soon, any real benefit to do it???

Thanks

Archer
Arch, I HAVE NOT installed these particular connectors. With that out of the way the 1k price for custom fabrication sounds about right, IF they are NOT cutting the floor pan. Also 98% of the frame connectors made require cutting thru the floor pans, and do not in anyway take away from the structural integrity of the vehicle, but add to it. Some can stick up thru the floor as much as the tube size, some less. Benefits? Yes even tho it "won't be raced anytime soon" they help with the rigidity of the vehicle. And when the time comes to really stand on the skinny pedal your high torque, high hp beast wont be trying to twist the body into a pretzel.... I would def do it while building instead of trying to put them in after the car is all together with interior,carpets etc to deal with...
Old 05-31-2012 | 08:48 AM
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old -

The problem is the car IS already built and has been raced in the passed (without slicks or drag radials, just street tires). I'd really like to have them put it, just can't really justify the work right now.

As much as I love Mopars, the designers really dropped the ball on this one. (OK, my understanding was that the designers actually recommended connecting the frame, but the front office said no, for "cost" reasons.)

Thanks,

Archer
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