Hard brakes
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Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 106
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From: Laveen, AZ
Hard brakes
OK, while I am waiting for my new cylinder head to arrive, I can work on other things.
So here is a brake question.
I have a 1966 Dart 270 Wagon.
It has manual brakes. Single chamber master cylinder.
The brake pedal only seems to travel a very short distance and it is also really hard. In other words I step on the brakes, the pedal moves a little, then I have to really lean in to it to get stop the car.
The brakes work well, but I do not remember having to use that much muscle to stop a car before. I have had plenty with manual brakes.
Any ideas what could cause that? Would changing the brakes to a dual master cylinder help the car stop easier?
Thank you!
So here is a brake question.
I have a 1966 Dart 270 Wagon.
It has manual brakes. Single chamber master cylinder.
The brake pedal only seems to travel a very short distance and it is also really hard. In other words I step on the brakes, the pedal moves a little, then I have to really lean in to it to get stop the car.
The brakes work well, but I do not remember having to use that much muscle to stop a car before. I have had plenty with manual brakes.
Any ideas what could cause that? Would changing the brakes to a dual master cylinder help the car stop easier?
Thank you!
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 40
From: houston tx
change it to a dual circuit master cylinder and change the prop valve as well. i kn mine is a little stiff as well. i have changed the master cylinder next step is to clean the prop valve and flush the system.
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 388
66 Front and rear drums probably doesn't have a portioning valve Master could be corroded inside ? Frozen wheel cyl. Try bleeding the master first loosen the fitting and the pedel should go to the floor.. if the master is ok.. Jack the car up and rotate the wheel while someone steps on the brake, to see if each wheel is working.. Next I would flush the system I would also replace the rubber lines they mat be collapsed and blocking fluid flow
Dual master is a safety feature and a good idea. Make sure to get one for drums. Also if it is going to be a driver I would think about put disk brakes on it
Dual master is a safety feature and a good idea. Make sure to get one for drums. Also if it is going to be a driver I would think about put disk brakes on it
Last edited by TVLynn; Feb 23, 2013 at 05:08 PM.
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 40
From: houston tx
66 Front and rear drums probably doesn't have a portioning valve Master could be corroded inside ? Frozen wheel cyl. Try bleeding the master first loosen the fitting and the pedel should go to the floor.. if the master is ok.. Jack the car up and rotate the wheel while someone steps on the brake, to see if each wheel is working.. Next I would flush the system I would also replace the rubber lines they mat be collapsed and blocking fluid flow
Dual master is a safety feature and a good idea. Make sure to get one for drums. Also if it is going to be a driver I would think about put disk brakes on it
Dual master is a safety feature and a good idea. Make sure to get one for drums. Also if it is going to be a driver I would think about put disk brakes on it
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 356
Likes: 39
things to look for. Collapsed or kinked brake lines.
Chances are you got rust or crap into the system and it plugged a line somewheres. Open the bleeders on each wheel one at a time if the fluid goes out that line is good if nothing comes out that line has a problem.
A trick to bleeders is to heat them with a propane torch and cool instantly with an icecube. Repeat about 4 or 5 times then try to move the screw.
I have encountered this with the rear flexible line going to the rear axle being collapsed on the inside before. Change line and brakes work normally.
Chances are you got rust or crap into the system and it plugged a line somewheres. Open the bleeders on each wheel one at a time if the fluid goes out that line is good if nothing comes out that line has a problem.
A trick to bleeders is to heat them with a propane torch and cool instantly with an icecube. Repeat about 4 or 5 times then try to move the screw.
I have encountered this with the rear flexible line going to the rear axle being collapsed on the inside before. Change line and brakes work normally.
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