issue with stroker engine and starting help
 

First off its a 550hp 408 stroker engine 13.1 compression:mad:. I remotely mount battery in truck with 2gauge wire. after putting this new engine in, it will barely turn over. So I went out and bought a battery that has 980ca. Still doing the same this. wtf. Do I need to run dual batterys? do I have a bad ground? I am using a mopar performance high torque mini starter. Could this be a timing issue? If so any one have a link of how to wire in a mopar performance (6al) to factory? I also need to know the Proper way to drop in distributor and the distributor firing order. Its a 70-84ish block. I need help. Or I will pay for help. I'm in michigan
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D-guy ... try moving the battery up front to see if that helps.

Ok babe, first, doc, moving the bat. to the front wont change anything.the distance the voltage travels wont affect the starting.It should get 12 volts from the battery when the key comes on. 360, on the msd, the wiring is as follows.the red lead from the left side of box is the battery pos. that has to go to the bat. terminal. the black wire next to it must also go right to the battery ground terminal. the ground cant be a chasis or body ground. there is a hole on the right side of the boxfor a spade conector. this is the lead that goes to the tach. then there is a 2 wire harnness, should be green and purple wires. theese go to the dist.if your using a electronic unit then cut the pig tail before the dist. and using spade connectors attatch the green wire to the black wire on dist, then purple wire to the remaining wire.it is important that the dist. wires run seperate from the rest of the harness. due to it will pick up interference from the voltage in the other wires and cause the spark to be weak to the dist. there are black and white wires coming from the box bundle, I think its the white wire goes to the pos. side of the coil and the black goes to the neg. side. the rest of the wires you dont need. if it doesnt run then just reverse them, but they both go to the coil. the firing order on a small block is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.and the dist, rotor will turn clock wise. big blocks are counter clock. remember this saying, small block like a clock, big block counter clock. make sure that when you put the oil pump drive shaft if the block that the slot for the dist tooth is running latterally with the cam towards the front of the enging.is not just use a large flat tip screw driver and turn it counter clockwise to raise it oss the cam then move it to where this will happen then just turn it back down to line the teeth up.bring the motor up to t.d.c. make sure the timing mark on the crank balancer is lined up w/ the 0 mark on the timing cover tab. and the number 1 piston is at the top of the cylinder. drivers side is 1-3-5-7-. the pas side from front to back is 2-4-6-8.then when the dist is in the rotor button should be pointing towards the pass, front of the motor, towards number 2 cyl. when you put the cap on, it should point to the wire right before the front dist. clamp next to vacume pot. It does sound like a timing issue.I set my motors at 14 degrees before tdc. when I run a strong cam. but I dont know what the componets of yuor engine is so I would say talk to whoever built the motor and see what they recomend for an initial timing setting. if you want to wing it the best thing i can tell you is to move the dist, a little at a time while someone else sits in the car trying to start it, when it starts cranking faster and hits thats where you need to s, ounce you have it running you can fine tune it with a timing light from there, good luck babe,

Hey rr .... I just suggested that maybe due to the major amp draw through all that cable. ................. BUT - I give-up-the-floor to Doug(rr) ... he is the electrical expert here - this is what he does for a living !!

that wire seems too small to me. i think the compression might be the issue. put a volt meter on it to see how low the voltage drops while cranking. also, being a new engine it is going to be tight. pull the plugs and see how it turns over without compression. as the voltage decreases the amp draw will increase and you can smoke the starter.

once you get the engine cranking at speed, you can worry about the ignition.

you can calculate the voltage drop here:
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

don't forget to follow the engine builders instructions for break in when first running that engine!

what have you found out? if its in time, then i would look at the cable. if its super hot when your trying to start it at the starter. then i would recomend a double strand welder cable. this offers the least amount of resistance for the current to run through. it may also be the mini starter, some of them just cant take that type of comp. They make a stock starter for a 360 industrial motor.from like 69-78, thats for a 3/4 or 1ton truck that has a shorter winding housing, the big round part . its about 3 inches shorter then a stock 1 for pass. cars, that may do the trick.

pulled all plugs but 2. turning over extremly slow. almost 2complete turns than it just clicks the solinod. i have a brand new battery and i also had a 50amp battery start charger on. I think that maybee a bad neutral safty switch? i pulled start and all cables. we will see

it's not a bad ns switch. the solenoid clicks when the voltage drops way down low. hook the 50A booster to the starter solenoid starter cable.

where is the battery grounded?

so, what is the voltage reading when cranking?

it sounds like either the starter or engine is binding. that engine should spin easily with the plugs out. i don't care if the battery is the size of a bus, it is limited by the size of the wire and distance from the starter. is that engine dry? you can try one or two squirts of motor oil in each spark plug hole to lubricate the rings after you prime the engine oil pump.

Do you have a decent size GROUND WIRE from the batttery -- to the engine?

just a ground in the back of the car by the battery. should i run another cable from back of the car to the head of the car? 1 is just to back of car ground. it just doesnt turn over fast enough to start engine. 13./1 compression. it might be out of timimg. please keep sending ides. any one local to walled lake mi, 48390? thx

no more ideas to send. you need to start doing the homework!

where are the voltage reading? you need the numbers to start fixing things instead of being a parts changer.

i'm guessing that you now have no ground from the engine to the frame. put a jumper cable from the alternator bracket to a clean spot on the frame and see if it cranks faster.

yes, a ground from the battery to the engine would be best but why do it if it doesn't need it?

electricity; you can't see it and it doesn't make a noise. that is why you need to do voltage readings.

where about are you around walled lake dust360 as im north of stockbridge