what stall?
 

so my car is in the shop getting the rear main seal replaced. im not sure what converter is in it but depending on what it is what should i run. its a mild 340 with 727 and transpak installed. has 8 3/4 with sg 355 gears.

You have a cam, intake, carb, headers, etc all on the motor?

I would go with a 1500-2000 RPM stall convertor then. That is right around when the motor is starting to make power. Otherwise, I would just find myself a good stock convertor and go with that, especially if you have less performance parts.

any harm in going higher?
 

hey guys - any harm in going higher? I've got a 318 with 30 thou over. full ground up rebuild, crank grind, balance and line honed, new everything, pocketported heads with o/size valves, massive cam and mopar dual plane high rise performance manifold sitting under a new 600cfm Edlebrock rebuilt 904 shift kitted box and a set of Genie headers. I was thinking 2800 RPM stall? Having driven a mates '63 Fairlane Compact with an insane tunnel rammed SBF in front of a C4 trans who is running a 3500 high stall - I am sold on the "higher" high stall? car will be driven mostly on weekend only so not a daily driver with streetability concerns. Any advise....?

2500-2800 sounds about right for your set up Valcam.

A stall convertor can make or break how/when the vehicle start to move. You don't want it to be too high where you are running at 3000-5000 RPM just for cruising but you don't want it too low where you just get into the low end of your power band.

well its got headers with thermoquad carb. edelbrock performer intake bored .30 over . so its pretty built up but not radical you know.

2000 RPM stall rating would be a good choice. It will really help the vehicle to get going when it is in it's power band.

I';m no expert at converters, but I thought that the cam size is one of the primary factors in converter sizing. The whole match the powerband thing and what not. Just my 2 cents

The cam does play a part in the equation. With a motor that has been bored and has an intake/carb on it, I would imagine that you would match the cam and intake.

X2
Cam dictates converter is correct.

Your mods are only helping the stock motor breathe better. You haven't changed where the power band is, so no need or benefit to change the cam. You could only make driveability on the street worse. Don't forget, increasing the stall increases heat as well and could make for bad overheat issues. For your car stock is great. A good friend of mine has a Charger in the 10's with a stock converter. The engineers that designed these cars got paid a lot of money to put a good package together. IT'S A MOPAR!

it has a mild comp cam. cant remember specs they are at a friends house... but thanks for the info ...when i find out what it really has ill go from there.thanks again guys.