This is the rebuild of a '67 440, and also just so happens to be my first engine rebuild. I'm building it for my Engine Specialist class and any help/input or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated.

Engine block after disassembly and before cleaning.
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After wire-wheeling.

Cleaned up the heads and ground out a chunk of iron in one of the combustion chambers left from casting. And don't worry about that menacing looking wire drill bit, I didn't use it anywhere near the valve seats.





This engine has already been rebuilt once before, apparent from shims on the back of the main cap bearings. This did a pretty good number on the crank with std. mains, granted the rod journals were turned .010 from the factory.






The engine also had .040 over pistons installed when the cylinder bores were only about .035 over, and this thing was worn when I got it. Good news is I can hone it and stay at .040.




That rod bearing is a Clevite 77 series from '79 if I remember correctly, so I'm going to assume that's when it was rebuilt the first time. Which brings me to my next question, why would someone shim the main bearings which are standard bearings on a standard main journal? The bearing housings are all within spec, barely but still are none the less. I'd also like some information on these heads, I'm fairly certain the casting number is 2406516, which at first I had mistaken for 2406518 due to sloppy casting. This engine is going to see mostly high rpm use throughout it's life, that being said I know those valve seats will not like that kind of abuse. I have the option to re-seat the heads I have access to the machine to do it and would only be doing the exhaust seats and putting all new valves in. Is it worth it financially to do that kind of work to these heads? Or would I be farther ahead just to buy new.
Thanks in advance.

 

Welcome. Can't get your pictures, click on, down load, agony, not for me.

 

In the process of posting them as attachments, although I did get them to open in a new tab.

 

That's better.

Those are 383 small exhaust valve heads. I would strongly suggest buying one of the big block performance books, if your thinking high rpm's you'll get your answers there.

With being your first performance build and not knowing how familiar your instructors are with Mopar, you should know that the Chryslers have a few tricks much different from the GM and Ford engines.

Dan.

http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

 

I can't claim to recognize heads from the pictures, but the 915 heads were for the 440 but with the smaller exhaust valves. I don't know of 516, but may be that was a typo.


I think that the better 906 heads can be found cheaply. If these are indeed the 915's, I think hot rodders like them because when modified may be they can be better than the 906's.


What exactly do you mean "high rpm"? What is the application? Sounds interesting!

 

Some answers here: http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html

 

One of my instructors is pretty much a guru of all things chrysler/mopar and actually referred me to 440source, that's a great site. I also asked him about the heads and brought up the poor casing #. My contradiction was with the last number in the series, at first I thought it was an 8 leading me to believe they were max wedge heads(I know now they're not after a little more research). I feel more comfortable calling them 383 heads. I haven't measured the exh. valves yet but they should be 1.60". This build is definitely on a budget and sadly I don't think new heads will make their way in this time around, which is why I was kind of hoping for positive news on hardened exh. seats. On more of a side note, anyone have any idea what this engine would have been in originally? I'd like to know all I can.

 

I would spend my money and do my best work on the short block and think seriously about pistons with compression height to match my future plans and quench/compression ratio. Even if no new pistons the idea is do a basic rebuild on the heads as they can be easily changed in the future.

When it comes to increasing performance levels it basically comes down to heads, manifold and camshaft all bolt on parts without going into the short block.

With a good foundation you could improve this engine for years when funds become available while documenting hp/e.t. gains which gives a great feeling of accomplishment and pride.

Dan.

 

I think I've got the short block down, just ordered a kit with forged aluminum flattop pistons and moly rings. The stock LY rods are in beautiful condition, high volume oil pump, and a mopar performance cam. 272/272 duration .455/.455 lift.

 

What is the application?


That cam seems to have a lot of duration for moderate lift. I have a cam on my 440 with 0.477 intake, 0.480 exhaust, and only 268-280 duration. There is plenty of low end torque to move the heavy Imperial at low speeds, and plenty of upper end (helped with the ported heads) to accelerate the car very well at high rpm. Not finished tuning it, but I expect it would be a very good speed car.

 

It's gonna be used in a mud truck, not mine, but the guy offered the engine and parts as it's my first rebuild.