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440roadrunner · 12-25-2007, 06:45 PM

So far as the blue and brown, my '70 book shows different. However, yours has electronic igniton.

My '70 book shows blue going to

one side of the ballast
one side of the alternator field
one terminal on the regulator

All these are tied together and end up back at the igniton switch

That splice must be buried somewhere in the harness before it gets to the firewall plug I don't remember how your harness is laid out, so all you can do is look at it and gently cut into the tape here and there. If you see several "blues" then you know you have to get closer to the firewall.

You still may have a problem. First thing to do is get a known good, fully charged, battery in the car, even if you have to "borrow" one out of another car, then check the charging voltage.

HOWEVER you might still have a problem. If the wireing in the regulator circuit has a poor connection, the regulator might try and compensate. Here's why. I'm speaking generally, here, not just of your car. Wherever a regulator gets it's "sensing" voltage from the battery, it will regulate voltage based on that sensing voltage. That means that if the wiring in the "sense" lead has a resistive connection, the voltage regulator will "see" lower voltage than what the battery "really" is, and because the regulator "thinks" the voltage is low, it will jack up the field to the alternator in an effort to "get the voltage up." I would go through ALL connections in that regulator circuit. Clean them with some sort of wire brush or sand paper.

You MAY also STILL HAVE a bad regulator, so:

1: Try a known good, charged battery

2: Clean the terminals and inspect the wiring

2a: Make SURE the battery main post is grounded to the
block, and that you have a sizeable jumper (no 10 or
bigger) from the block to the firewall near the
regulator.

3: If the voltage is still high (battery will probably gas
bubble, and smell. Replace the regulator.

I wish I could meet some of you guys. I'm getting old--nearing 60--and have some health problems. I've spent a lot of time "back in the day" with several of these cars. Other than body work, and precision work, like, rebuilting automatics or power steering pumps/ gears, I've done all my work. I used to know these cars inside and out. I could teach you a lot in just one afternoon.

12-25-2007, 06:45 PM	#6 (permalink)
440roadrunner Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 272	So far as the blue and brown, my '70 book shows different. However, yours has electronic igniton. My '70 book shows blue going to one side of the ballast one side of the alternator field one terminal on the regulator All these are tied together and end up back at the igniton switch That splice must be buried somewhere in the harness before it gets to the firewall plug I don't remember how your harness is laid out, so all you can do is look at it and gently cut into the tape here and there. If you see several "blues" then you know you have to get closer to the firewall. You still may have a problem. First thing to do is get a known good, fully charged, battery in the car, even if you have to "borrow" one out of another car, then check the charging voltage. HOWEVER you might still have a problem. If the wireing in the regulator circuit has a poor connection, the regulator might try and compensate. Here's why. I'm speaking generally, here, not just of your car. Wherever a regulator gets it's "sensing" voltage from the battery, it will regulate voltage based on that sensing voltage. That means that if the wiring in the "sense" lead has a resistive connection, the voltage regulator will "see" lower voltage than what the battery "really" is, and because the regulator "thinks" the voltage is low, it will jack up the field to the alternator in an effort to "get the voltage up." I would go through ALL connections in that regulator circuit. Clean them with some sort of wire brush or sand paper. You MAY also STILL HAVE a bad regulator, so: 1: Try a known good, charged battery 2: Clean the terminals and inspect the wiring 2a: Make SURE the battery main post is grounded to the block, and that you have a sizeable jumper (no 10 or bigger) from the block to the firewall near the regulator. 3: If the voltage is still high (battery will probably gas bubble, and smell. Replace the regulator. I wish I could meet some of you guys. I'm getting old--nearing 60--and have some health problems. I've spent a lot of time "back in the day" with several of these cars. Other than body work, and precision work, like, rebuilting automatics or power steering pumps/ gears, I've done all my work. I used to know these cars inside and out. I could teach you a lot in just one afternoon.