67 GTX

oh, well, at least you fixed the problem now so it wont get you in the long run

Commando

Yeah definitely, still running into little issues. Got something accomplished today though, painted the block, timing cover and oil pan. It looks real nice black with a clear coat over top, a little hard to tell in the pic. Would have attached the heads but turns out I can't use the old bolts with the new heads. Also turns out I need adjustable rocker arms, so I am looking at what 440 source has to offer, looks like the whole kit will run about $330. Also just ordered a steel crank harmonic balancer on eBay for $37.

67 GTX

why cant you use the old head bolts?
your running a solid lifter cam, is that why you need the adjustable rocker shaft?
whats the casting date on the block?
Did mopar ever paint their blocks black?

Commando

The old head bolts need washers, otherwise the bolt would tear up the aluminum heads.

Edelbrock requires an adjustable rocker arm set. Also the rods go straight down, so I am not sure if the old setup will work properly.

The block is from 77.

No, they didn't, but they also didn't have all the aluminum I have on there, at least that's how I am justifying the paint color, as I had plenty of Mopar blue engine paint.

Commando

I should have mentioned that's not by original block, I pulled the original out and I am saving it, and getting all the stock parts together.

challenger

Did you get a good deal on them heads C and what are the specks on them, im wanting a set but i need to go big with the valves as much as i can

Commando

I still haven't paid for them, but they will be on the block later today. The cost was $1288 for the pair, I hope that's what I get charged, but I will probably pay $1400, which isn't bad, they retail at $1310 a piece.

These are the 84cc chamber, 210cc intake, 2.14 intake and 1.81 exhaust.

Here's another pic I took, will take one of the valves later today for you.

67 GTX

oh, wow. they look great.
sorry for all the questions before, by the way.

Commando

I had some more pics today, but left the camera in the shop. Also made another mistake, I went by memory as to the installation instructions and stripped the threads in the head when installing the intake. Still thinking about how to fix it, probably helicoil.

Also took pics for you Chally.

challenger

can you tap them out to the next size thread, there should be room but the heli will work also , did you over tighten the bolts ///// those should be just right for your engine and just think of the weight you are loosing with them and the flow WOW lets hear it run hehehehehe thanks for your input

Commando

I was also thinking about tapping to the next size, not sure if there is the room, I misread the directions last year, so I made the same mistake twice and used too much Gasgacinch (Edelbrock gasket sealer). So everything is nice and tight, so depending on what happens it won't be easy.

Commando

I did not get a chance to finish the intake today as the heater in the shop stopped working, but I did grab my camera. Chally, the first set of pictures are for you to see the valves, then I took some with the heads on the block.

challenger

That engine is going to look really sweet with all the aluminum look and thanks C for the pic's as now i can see there is little bit more room to go bigger with the valves thanks at least a 2.18 on the intake

Commando

Np, there is some space and they should do exactly what I want after it gets all bolted down.

67 GTX

did you figure out what to paint on the aluminum heads so they won't pit?

Commando

I am not sure, but I am thinking that I may use the clear coat Duplicolor engine enamel, I sprayed that over the color on the block. It does say something about primer, but that's what the regular engine enamel says too.

Does anyone know what the aluminum cleaner is, so I can clean the intake before coating it? I sprayed some brake cleaner on it, and all that did was clean the obvious dirt, but it really isn't too bad just in comparison to the heads.

Commando

Intake is all bolted down now, I ended up stripping the threads in two of the holes in the head, so there are now helicoils in there and it's all torqued and tight. The guy I was working with says that if he were to ever use Edelbrock Aluminum heads he is going to put helicoils in all the intake head holes, which they should have done in the factory to start with.

Commando

So I finally took some pics with the intake on, also installed oil pump and fuel pump. I clear coated the water pump and housing as well as the heads and intake, I think it makes the aluminum jump (if you scroll up and look at the other pics of the heads on the block I think there is a big difference). Forgot to take pics of the water pump but hopefully I get that and some other stuff done to the engine this weekend.

That glassy looking wet stuff in the pics is the clear coat, looks a lot better in person, but looks about the same on the aluminum.

67 GTX

when you put the crank in, did you find another seal behind the rear main seal?

Commando

I really didn't get a good picture of it, but on the right half cut out is the cap that has the seal go around the top (when the engine is upright) and the sides, other then that nothing else.

67 GTX

it is shown in your pic
all the way on the right
it is held in by two bolts
what did you use to seal it?

Commando

I didn't use these seals in the picture but used a similar seal in fabric.

67 GTX

they look like them
i was given sylicone, and was told to shoot it into both holes
then, wetten 2 things that looked like pipe cleaners, and insert them, one into each hole
i was told by my machine shop, and i found it out to be true, is that they leak
my leak has slowed up, but it is still there. it is kind of frustrating since every single gasket on my engine is brand new

Commando

I had the silicone ones as well, but were told that the other ones were much better.

67 GTX

yep
do you know what the old kind looked like?
i forgot
i didn't save things when i took them off. i wish i did now

Commando

I didn't actually put them in myself, but I will see if I can find what they looked like for you.

Commando

They are known as rope seals, and as the name suggests they look like pieces of rope, I assume that's what you had as some refer to them as pipe cleaners. Another suggestion I got was about makeing sure there is enough silicone on there after you insert the side seals and before the rear cap is bolted down.

What is yours made out of? If it's aluminum and you over torque it, there could be a small leak.

67 GTX

i just did silicone and the "pipe cleaners"
i must have messed up or something, not sure
i know that this is a new way of doing it
the old way was an asbestos cloth that completely sealed, but they were discontinued because they were harmful when the shreaded

Commando

That could be what was used, I have no idea, was just told that the silicone ones I had were no good.

67 GTX

what are you gonna do then?
just put the silicone ones in and hope for the best?