mike639

hey guys,
I just picked up this power buldge hood scoop for my 1973 satellite-roadrunner conversion project. I bought it from a guy for $175. He said it came from a 74 roadrunner. On the scoop it reads "440+6". I dont know if this is rare or if I got a good deal. Hopefully you mopar nuts can help me out here.

mike639

yea the decals look original and the hood is definitely from a 73-74 roadrunner. I had a feeling it was rare but didnt want to say anything to the seller.

78D200

Well that does it! Your going to have to throw in a 440 6 pack in place of that 318 that you've got. The hood says to do it and by the appearance of that hood, I'd do what it says. It looks MEAN!

Great find!

Polaradude

I'll give ya $180.00 for it right now....haha. That hood is worth a little more than 175, good score.

67 GTX

good buy

rr69half6bbl

Nice lookin hood. good price too . you did great. But the stickers for a 70 runner ,gtx hood. Thats the sticker that goes on the sides of the bulge hood for a 70. Someone just stuck them on there. But I agree with d78. leave them on and then put a 4406bbl under that hood. what a rush.

mike639

hahahaha yea i thought about about a big block but thats pretty far out of my price range. maybe a few years down the line after the 318 ***** out but im gonna try leavin the 440+6 on the hood. thanks guys

67 GTX

are you gonna redo the hood at all?

mike639

yea i was thinking about having it stripped and the rust repaired and having it primered ready for paint later this year. I want to keep the 440+6 but dont think thats gonna happen, its already pretty deteriorated.

mike639

i got a lead on an acid wash place that is pretty cheap

78D200

You could always have it cleaned up and install it, just don't pop the hood for anyone and install headers with some flowmaster 40 series mufflers to make it sound mean.

At least til you can build/find a 440 and install a 6 pack on it. Heck, even a 383 with a 6pack would be killer. The you can have a 383+6 sticker made for it.

mike639

well 78D you read my mind. next month I made plans to get some flowmasters put on. hell maybe i can get a 318 sticker made lol

johnthegoalie

its been a while - years back in hot rod, they profiled a company that made oem style graphics and stripes but changed them to reflect modifications. so they would make in the "440+6" style a "318+4" or something

67 GTX

that would look awsome

78D200

I think Edlebrock makes a 6 barrel intake for the LA small blocks.... *hint*hint*

mike639

really? ive never heard of that. ill keep my eyes and ears open. dont be suprised if you see a small block 6bbl intake wanted in the classifieds.

johnthegoalie

ive said earlier, i am really good at helping people spent their money
it is a gift and a curse, wives and girlfriends hate me for it...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

78D200

i remember a while back that Edlebrock use to make a small block "6 pack" intake. Guess they stopped.

You could always have it read "318+8"

https://moparforums.com/forums/f63/intake-2357/

johnthegoalie

dual quads - like showing up constipated to a pancake eating contest

Polaradude

Now thats funny..

rr69half6bbl

Mike, I wanted to let you know that I really recomend not acid washing or dipping it, I ve read several articles over the last 3 yrs. stating that people that have this done to body panels or whole cars, are having a great deal of trouble with this process. see, the acid all doesnt come or drain out of the pcs. or body panels and it eats the foamy like glue between them, if you look at your hood or any body panel youll see like a foam susbstance coming out from between the pcs. of metal. there are two skins the inner and outer layer, they are glued together by this foam., and the foam also acts as a deterent from the matel shaking while going down the road. with this foam gone, the metal pcs, seperate causing metal fatigue and pcs. coming apart. then you have to reglue the pcs. together again. On the second prob. the acid pools up in the botom recesses of the body or pcs. and doesnt evaporate, then when you redo the car and paint it, the acid starts to seep out of the area it pooled up at causing it too eat the paint and filler you reaply to the body. then you have to have that area redone. and it continues to do this over many yrs. I read an article in hot rod mag. where this happened to a guys really nice street rod. many kk`s worth of hot rod in fact, had a big name rod builder out west do the wole car. showed pics of where the acid had ran out at the front of the doors and onto the rocker area.Guy had to have the car redone several times. and in the process, they learned about the metal seperating. then had to take the panels off and reglue the int. the best they could, the matal was actually seperated and top skin was rippling while going down the road. really sucked, i felt bad for the guy. Just wanted to make you aware of the stuff that can happen. I would have the hood media blasted this isnt half as expensive and just as effective .

mike639

wow thanks rr69, this is why i joined this fabulous forum to get advice and multiple view points. i dont know half the things u guys do but im here to learn. speaking of media blasting i was thinking of investing in a small sand blaster for the garage. does anyone recommend a specific blaster? i would like to have one to do ssmall jobs myself and save money

78D200

I have a little no-name sprayer that works for what I need. Heck I even sand blasted an entire front radiator support out of my 85 D100 that I use to have. Took some time but it beat paying someone to do it for me.

johnthegoalie

i have a harbor freight hand-held gun, it looks like a paintball gun with a hopper for the blast media. when i use it, i will get a refrigerator box for a makeshift cabinet. for the price it does the job although i absolutely hate sandblasting.

rr69half6bbl

your welcome. on the blaster it depends on what you want to spend. keep in mind you have to have a good air compressor to do the job. I have a 6horse . 150 gal. tank for a scat blaster cabinet i bought. its big enough to hold 2 car rims. at ounce. I paid 500 for the comp. and 650 for the blast cabinet and vacume canister for it. it was sent to me ready to use minus the sand. youll need at least a 5 h.p. comp. w 150 lbs storage. to run this type of blaster. you can use a blow pot that you can get from har. freight . for aunder a hundred bucks. but youll still need a comp. to run it. the prob w. the pot blaster is that it runs through the sand so fast, and you have to do it outside so the sand doesnt desrtoy anything in the garage, it flys everywhere. If you look around you should bbe able to find a blst shop in the area. that can do what you need for a few bucks.

78D200

What is soda blasting?

When I can, I head over to a friends shop where he has a bead blaster. Works great and seems to leave a nice, smooth finish.

Polaradude

It's sodium bicarbonate aka baking soda that they use in the same way as sand, glass bead, nut shells etc etc. It won't distort metal, it's environmentally friendly, it wont etch glass, you don't get flash rust with it and you can make a pan of biscuits while you're at it.