jedatide

Hello MOPAR fans,

My name is Jeff and I reside near Memphis, TN (Atoka). I am new to the MOPAR ownership and the whole restoration process. I am looking for your wisdom and experience. I recently purchased a 1968 Dodge Charger (383). The car is in really great condition and I am excited about restoring her. The previous owner had the motor rebuilt approximately 5 years ago (supposedly will all the right bells and whistles). He is still trying to locate the paperwork for the re-build. He said the last time the motor was run was over a year ago. I need guidance on what should I do before turning the motor over?
I have read several forums and this is what I believe I should do:
1. Disconnect the coil.
2. Remove the plugs.
3. Squirt marvel mystery oil into the cylinders.
4. Hand turn the crank to coat the cylinder walls. Then, wait 24hrs and hand turn the crank again.
5. Replace the plugs and reconnect the coil.
6. Attempt to start the motor.
Any advice is welcomed. I want to do this right the first time.
Thanks, Jeff

66coronet440

Hi there, when i bought my 66 coronet it wasnt started for 2 just sitting there, but it fired up right quick, didnt have to do a thing. If your set on doing some maintenance, i would advice you to change the oil and filter(prime it too), however when you go to fill it up again, make sure you pour the oil in from both valve covers so that your cylinder head are pre-oiled, to prevent it from damage when started with insufficient oil/pressure. Happy motorin'!

__________________________
1966 Coronet 440 318 poly

MReeves

I agree with 66Coronet on changing the oil and filter and double on priming the oil pump... That way no dry start...

Also, welcome to the forum... Keep us posted on your progress in getting her fired.....

67 GTX

welcome to the forum
I'd personally follow the above instructions

jedatide

Thanks for all the feedback. How do I prime the oil pump?

78D200

Welcome!

1966sportfury

yes prime the pump don't turn the crank over by hand. its still being turned dry, might as well use the key then. if you want to add some lubricant to the upper cylinders you can and it wouldn't hurt. by removing the plugs and putting oil,tranny fluid or marvel mystery oil.
too prime the pump you got to pull the distributor and the oil pump gear. but you will need a drill and a priming rod. stick the rod down in the hole where the dizzy pump gear was and use the drill to spin the oil pump same was as the dizzy turns. that will coat all the bearings. if you have a friend handy that person can turn the crank as you use the drill to make sure the top end and all the bearing surfaces get a good coat. just make sure to bring everything up to number 1 cyl, and put the dizzy in right.

jedatide

Thanks for the feedback. I just ordered a MOPAR oil pump primer from Summit Racing. With any luck; hopefully, I will have her running next weekend. I am really excited about hearing her run.

Buffalojoe426

Welcome to the forum!

jedatide

I should have my MOPAR oil priming rod tomorrow from Summit Racing.
1. Should I mark the distributor to return to proper alignment and
2. I assume when priming the oil pump with my drill, I want to turn clock wise - correct?
Thanks for the input.
Jeff

scotts74birds

#1 Nah, just put the dizzy in any ole way! Kidding. Yes, mark the base and the rotor orientation.
#2 Big block dizzys run CCW, and since they directly mesh with the oil pump drive, CCW is the way the pump should spin.

Also, I'm having a brain fart here, [too many mental images of different motors] but I believe the oil pump drive gear is slotted on the top where the dizzy meshes with it. You should note the position [clocking] of this before you remove it. Due to the bevel of the gears, the drive will rotate about 30deg when you remove it, and re-install it. Did I forget anything? I'm sure I will be corrected by others if I left something out.

challenger

Welcome Jeff glad to have ya' hear on the forums

jedatide

Thanks for all the support. With any luck I will have her running this Saturday. Of course, I may be asking for further direction. First, I have to install the MSD ignition module (the previous one was removed and wires cut). I have it, with directions, ready to go - I think I got it. Next, I have to install a Holley 670 carburetor (carburetor was removed). Purchased manifold bolts, gasket, and breather bolt. The only thing I am not sure of is finding the 12v connection for the electronic choke (Any suggestions?) I will keep you posted. Thanks for all the guidance.
Jeff

challenger

There should be a wire usually color of green that runs around the carb some where with a female connector which is usually the choke wire, if not you will have to find a suitable 12 volt wire that is only on when your key is turned on >>>>>>Electric choke draws current all the time the ignition is "on", which expands the bimetallic coil and keeps the choke open; when you shut the engine off, the coil cools down, contracts, and closes the choke.
Provide ignition-switched full 12 volts (don't use the coil + terminal, as it only gets 7-8 volts when running) and ground, and adjust the cover to get the choke operation that works best for you.
Just make sure you use a tester to find the 12 volt wire

lou3500

Welcome Jeff the above instructions are what you need to follow you may want to clean the fuel tank and change the fuel filter along with the coolent and flush the radiator.

jedatide

Alright, I took everyone's advice and I was ready to hear her run. Unfortunately, something is wrong with the starter. It attempts to start the motor (I can see the fan move a little), but then it sounds like the starter is spinning, or there is not enough power to turn the flywheel. I put the car on stands and attempted to remove the starter. I could not get the starter out because the headers were in the way. I removed the header (the engine is a 383 and has hooker competion headers on it) and I cannot figure out how to get the header or the starter out. I'M FRUSTRATED. Any advice? Thanks, Jeff

maddawg57

Welcome and good luck