Charging Problem
04-07-2009, 08:56 PM
#32
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so, it has output on a bench but in the car you've bypassed the regulator and output wire and it won't put out for you. the only thing left to try is running a ground from the battery to the alternator. you can use a jumper cable set to do that.
if it still does not work, it's time to have it rechecked. ask the for the voltage and amperage output readings.
if it still does not work, it's time to have it rechecked. ask the for the voltage and amperage output readings.
04-08-2009, 03:43 AM
#33
Mopar Lover
[quote=SixtySevenDodge;16810]Would an electronic regulator just bolt right in place of the mechanical one using the same connections and everything? And the alternator isnt listed as a dual field and it doesnt have the second prong, just a screw where the second prong would be. Also I am trying to trem...
Well, the old regulator has one hot and one alt/sensor {that's only what i call em. dont know actual name} the green wire is the sensor wire, it goes to the field on the alt. of course the blue wire is hot going to the other side of your regulator. You've got the same wires on a newer elec. voltage regulator. The only difference is the extra wire going to the other field on the newer style alt. It is a hot wire[key on source]. It sounds like you havr the newer style alt. Make double sure its a new style alt by comparing it with another one.
The electronic regulator requires the dual field alt and vice versa.
Well, the old regulator has one hot and one alt/sensor {that's only what i call em. dont know actual name} the green wire is the sensor wire, it goes to the field on the alt. of course the blue wire is hot going to the other side of your regulator. You've got the same wires on a newer elec. voltage regulator. The only difference is the extra wire going to the other field on the newer style alt. It is a hot wire[key on source]. It sounds like you havr the newer style alt. Make double sure its a new style alt by comparing it with another one.
The electronic regulator requires the dual field alt and vice versa.
04-08-2009, 11:22 AM
#34
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well I dont wanna fry anything by grounding the alternator. Wouldnt that mess up the stator wiring? And I dont think its a dual field alt but the screw for the second prong is there so idk Ill have to take a picture of the backside. Its whatever Smyth Automotive has in stock for a '67 318 coronet. This is my dad's account. >.< Auto logged in as him oh well. But anyway yeah I want to make sure I dont blow up the current one.
04-09-2009, 08:15 PM
#35
Mopar Fan
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Ive cracked the mystery. It was a mix between high resistance in the bulkhead connector/ammeter and a bad regulator. I bought a new regulator today and stuck it on there. Im still trying to adjust the darn thing so its not cranking out 11v or 17v which is like a hair away from each other. Its so sensitive. Definitely putting money towards dual field alternator and electronic reg. Right now I have a fused 10 gauge wire running from the ign relay to the batt post on the alternator. I eliminated the fused link wire from the relay to the bulkhead, which also eliminated the ammeter. Eventually when I get a voltmeter Ill hook it back up but for now its good. When I first put the new regulator on the car would blow 30amp and even 40 amp fuses when accelerating which killed the entire car's electric lol. But it's getting close to midrange. I dont really trust it completely yet at night because of what Ive been through and I have to get used to it again. Im still afraid of it dying or blowing fuses even though it should be fine now. Headlights are nicely lit and they dont flicker like crazy. Every once in a while it will flicker just for a split second and its very miniscule so its probably a normal thing.
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