raycan2

After taking out the 440 and finding I did not put in the cap on the back where the cam is and leaking oil..I finally got the 440 back in and started up like a champ..But now its leaking again..What the H%*LL is going on could it be the rear main seal...It all looked dry and good when I took the engine out...Oh well I have to go to work tomorrow for 2 weeks,,,It will give me something to do for the 2 weeks I am home next time...What

PURPLE HORONET

From what I recall of your build, I remember you drilled your flex plate holes out because you said it would not line up with the converter. This said the flex plat will only bolt up one way. Maybe this threw it out of ballance

raycan2

No that was not me..I did not drill out any holes..and my flex plate before I unbolted it I spray painted a bit just to match it up when it come together.It has to be the rear main seal or the rear main Cap..
But I do remember reading somewhere that did drill out the Flex Plate

RacerHog

OH NO... That sucks....

raycan2

Racerhog just come over to my house and fix it...free food, free T.V. and all the beer you can drink..

Myraman

Only if I was just a bit closer, I'd volunteer!! Free beer is gooooood!

RacerHog

Trust me, when I say I would love to.... Then I could stop over in Minnesota and fix "newto440" Problems also...He is still fighting issues with his...
And If I could get Done with this 1964 Ford Mustang that we are doing a 4.6 Modular conversion, with od trans, with 4 wheel abs and traction control, and with full Calif. Emission legal. For some other dude. I would be happy as snot on a baby.
Ok...Enough about my Issues...

Can you get ahold of a Bore Scope? That is going to be the best way to check this at this point... Get a bore scope and take a look at wear the leak is coming from. Make sure you can find it this time.... pick one up at Harbor freight if you have to.
Keep us posted....

raycan2

Good idea..

pro-tech

Just a thought did you use a freeze out plug or a cam plug to seal the back of the cam???...Also what sealer did you use??...The reason I ask is a cam plug bites into the metal when installed and a frost plug does not...A frost plug works in the cooling system and doesnt exceed 15-20 psi and a cam plug has to exceed pressures of over 100psi...My guess is your plug is leaking again the plug you showed in your post didnt look like a cam plug it looked like a frost plug ...Just my $.02 and I may be wrong it wouldnt be the first time and surely not the last.... Bill

raycan2

I used a plug that looms like the ones on the side and used Ultra Black PX#B2180

pro-tech

Those are frost plugs you need a cam plug... They are different...And use what I posted in your last post...Silicone based sealer should not be used on press in plugs it makes them slippery and pop out most of the time...Bill

RacerHog

Here is the Napa #
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...084_0204521132

2-9/64"

raycan2

You think it would be easier to turn the car on and let it leak for a bit then unbolt the flex plate and take the transmission off then I could take a good look at the back of the engine?

RacerHog

I would still say a Bore scope... But if you cant come up with one... Looks like your pulling the trans or engine to find it back there....

I would make sure it's not a valve cover leak or a leak at the back or the engine.

raycan2

Racer:
That was one of the first things I checked but my luck don.t roll that way...I took the dust cover off the trany and you can see it running down...

raycan2

Let me ask you if I do take the transmission out I should be able to see behind the lock..Am I right..I wish their was a way to start the engine with out the starter so I can see where its leaking..

RacerHog

Worse yet... Hope you don't find the block has crack in one of the galley plug areas!!!!
Hope its just the cam plug.

raycan2

AH don't scare me ...It was not leaking before I rebuilt it so I don't think its that..WELL I SURE IS CRAPE HOPE NOT....I think its the rear Main seal because when I took the engine out their was no sign of any oil anywhere but where the plug goes..Then again it might be the plug that did not hold...

RacerHog

Well If if it is the rear main seal that would be much easier to do while in the car!!!
Did you get the newer Billet rear retainer?
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/rearmainbear.html

TVLynn

Pull the trans and use a drill to pressurizer the oil system. OR put some UV leak dector in the oil and run it for a few minutes Then remove the trans and check with a black light

raycan2

So what you are saying is take the Distributor off and use the drill like I did when I put the engine together and primed the oil? I had not thought of that....That is a good idea then I could see where the oil is spilling out of...

pro-tech

In my opinion it is easier to pull the transmisson then the engine but I also have lifts and a transmisson jack...Or find someone that does...I should start a new business RENT-A-BAY and tools are extra...I bet the insurance would kill me...Bill

raycan2

You are right the Transmission is quicker, I have 2 bolts on the headers that are hard to take out and takes a while....Transmission is coming out...I have to wait till I get home in 2 week...

raycan2

Hey TVLYNN using the drill do like you said is a good idea but being that the crank is not turning will that matter or pressure up enough?
I mean i am taking out the Transmission anyways I guess its worth a try.
I am back home for 2 weeks so car time again.