Skynyrd

Didn't get time today had to work on electric in garage along with some other stuff. But will try again tomorrow. Thanks guys

Skynyrd

Seems idle ok but when I start bringing it up in rpms around two it starts running rough higher I go the rougher. Could having to high octane do this? Or maybe I need to go ahead and run it on up and try to set again. Maybe it will calm down when I get it closer. Al

70newport

Hey Im not sure of all of the history and exactly how much this motor changed but just a thought: what spark plug is being ran and what gap are they at?

If its a higher compression ratio and has a cold plug with too large of gap for example could it be loosing spark as it climbs?

Just a thought.

Gary

Skynyrd

Skynyrd

Sorry Gary not sure how I did that. But yes it's a possibility for sure.

Iowan

RacerHog

Wow.... Did you find anything yet Al?
Did the Voltage check out OK?
AS for the Fuel Octane, Not sure what the compression ratio is of that combo?

What Ignition Coil are you running with MSD 6AL?

Skynyrd

Msd coil same one I've used all along. Well we set it at around 36. At 3500. With this combo it's not going to run smooth especially at low rpms the Dominator don't like it. It wants to run at wot or higher rpm's. It idles ok at around 1000 , starts easy expecally when warm just hit starter no extra gas needed. After warming and setting to 36 I reved a little higher around 4000 or a little better and it sounded good smoothed out some. I guess just set it as close as I can then make a pass and see what we have. I just wanted to be sure its close before reving much. It idles at about 20 degrees. The cam is the big variable I believe. Al

Skynyrd

My builder suggested 114 I'm thinking maybe to high we used to run 110. It's suppose to be around 12-1 compression. Thought maybe 114 may be a problem but when I snap reved it last night it sounded good. It always did run like crap around 2000 to 3000.

RacerHog

That sounds about rite....

RacerHog

Might be time to take it for a spin....

Iowan

Yep , I would if everything else is good to go.

Skynyrd

Have to take to alignment shop then as soon as we can we're planning on taking it to a place that's out of the way and big enough. Talk soon. Al

RacerHog

Sounds like a Plan...

Skynyrd

Good morning. I think I was making it a little more complicated than it is. Still more to learn on this subject as with most things. Wondering if locking out the distributor would help my setup and make the process any easier if it was? Whata you guys think ? Ever run a drag car that way?

Iowan

With a cam in the 280 @ .050 duration plus range you can think backwards a little. The only thing you need advance in the distributor for is to help start the thing, like I have said 5-10 degrees of advance as soon as possible. Just look at it backwards, locked with a 5-10 retard to help it start. You could try locking it at 36 total and if it starts easily, doesn't fight the starter it might work.

RacerHog

I agree....

Just FYI.. Lot of folks lock out the advance.. You then see them at some point move over to a MSD 7AL box. Or a box like that which has the 18* start retarder feature in it, just for the start help, as described by Iowan.
We found it allot of help on the higher compression ratio engines.

No Objections here on locking it out... As long as it starts and or kicks back.
Might have to get it spinning and then turn on the ignition while it's spinning..

Iowan

I think the 6AL2 has the start retard in it.

RacerHog

<img src="http://www.allsmileys.com/files/smiley-central-communicate/5260.gif" alt="" style="border:0px;vertical-align:middle">

Skynyrd

. What does Thread Starter mean ?

RacerHog

Hope all is looking good? Hope you are well also?

Iowan

You started the thread, its just for you.

RacerHog

You started it.....
Whats new?
All back together?

Skynyrd

Oh ok on thread st. Lol. I'm about the same , thanks. Still working on it. Been trying to figure this engine out. It fires right up then when warm just hit the button w/ no gas & fires right up & idles on its own so I figure it's not far off. 20 degrees initial now and total around 36 but it's hard to set the total because of the rough runnning. I took the rotor button off & inspected it , found rust on the shaft of dizzy on the cog like pick up ( reluctor). Maybe this is the problem. I uploaded the pic. But having trouble transferring to here. The pic is on your f/b messenger Bob. Let me know if you got it. I tried to put it on here.

RacerHog

Didn't come up on my phone... I'll look for it this evening when I get home, and get back to you...

Iowan

If you have rust in the distributer check the mechanical advance and make sure everything is moving freely.

RacerHog

Al.. That looks like it got moister in it. That rust on the pick up can cause problems. Might want to pull it apart and get it all cleaned up. Check the Reluctor to also make sure it has not lost its magnetic pull.
Iowan is also rite, Check to make sure the shaft is not stuck...

Iowan

Condensation in the distributer will scatter spark so this could be the problem!
If it is its an easy fix.

Skynyrd

You saying 112 instead of 114?

Skynyrd

I think there's a couple of ways to go here. I cleaned the reluctor edge seemed to run better ,not as rough. Thought you could get just the reluctor but msd says no it's welded. But you can get the pick/ up. Have a new cap & button. So I can order the advance adjustment kit with springs etc and go with lowering my initial or we can lock it out then see how it does as far as starting may need the starter saver retard. Guess we would just have to try and start to find out. Or could go ahead and purchase the retard and install before starting. Then maybe a crank trigger later. Anyways leaning toward locking it out. How do you set the timing if locked out for the first time?