1970 Superbee timing question
 

Hello all,
Please excuse any typo's as I've been beating my head against the wall.

I have a 1970 Dodge Superbee 4 sp. It has what I believe to be a 1968 (stamped) Stock 383 in it. Stock intake manifold, Edlebrock 650 4 barrell carb. It also has points type distibutor and ignition. EVERYTHING is new... motor, distr, points, condensor, coil,, plugs, wires, ballast resistor, Voltage regualtor even the wiring harness..

The car starts right up, first time without any gas pedal. After it warms a few minutes, I drive it down the road, it starts to "break up" around 2000+ rpms not matter water gear.
Points are gapped at .015. Firing order has been checked 20x by 3 sets of eyes, What should the timimg be set at? I've read lots of varying set points. I'm hoping its just the points gapped too much or the timing being screwy.

Please Help... I'm dying to drive ths thing.
Thanks

Mostly stock I would set it around 10 deg before as a starting point..

What do you have the timing set at now?
Do you have the vacuum advance connected?

The first thing that I would do is replace the condenser in the distributor. I have had them go bad and I have had brand new 'out of the box' condensers that were bad.

Years ago, my first Fury, 383, would start and idle just fine but, when I'd try to put a load on it, it would break up and cut out. Had me baffled as everything was new. I chased it down and it was the 'brand new' condenser.

The points are gapped at .015. Timing is about 15 deg btdc. A buddy timed it to this with vacuum advance plugged up. I may try the condenser since it's only a couple bucks.

If this is a single point dist. Take a GOOD look if possible with a scope or good dwell meter to look for dist. shaft/ bushing wear.

If not, wiggle the shaft when the points are open and see "what you can see."

The vacuum advance (if used) changes the dwell/ points gap, and so does RPM and bushing/ shaft wear. This means that at some point (no pun) the points gap may open or close enough that they do not open and close.

I agree, try a different condenser, don't discount the coil may be iffy, and CHECK THE SUPPLY VOLTAGE at the dark blue "run" wire which supplies the top side of the ballast resistor

More and more of these old girls are developing wiring problems, especially the bulkhead connector

Get rid of those points, Accel,Petronix,Mallory all make point elimination kits.It's not 1970 anymore.
just my .02 worth, john

I bought the electronic conversion kit. Distributor, ECU and harness. It's supposed to be plug and play. I'm hoping this corrects it Tuesday after work.... I can't wait. Ha