Go Back   Mopar Forums > GENERAL > General Technical Questions
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search

Reply
 
 
 
submit to reddit
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-10-2011, 08:29 AM   #1
Mopar Fan
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1970 Superbee timing question

Hello all,
Please excuse any typo's as I've been beating my head against the wall.

I have a 1970 Dodge Superbee 4 sp. It has what I believe to be a 1968 (stamped) Stock 383 in it. Stock intake manifold, Edlebrock 650 4 barrell carb. It also has points type distibutor and ignition. EVERYTHING is new... motor, distr, points, condensor, coil,, plugs, wires, ballast resistor, Voltage regualtor even the wiring harness..

The car starts right up, first time without any gas pedal. After it warms a few minutes, I drive it down the road, it starts to "break up" around 2000+ rpms not matter water gear.
Points are gapped at .015. Firing order has been checked 20x by 3 sets of eyes, What should the timimg be set at? I've read lots of varying set points. I'm hoping its just the points gapped too much or the timing being screwy.

Please Help... I'm dying to drive ths thing.
Thanks
__________________
69 Superbee - Hemi Orange, 383 4sp white stripe white interior (on a rotisserie, no rust looking for a body shop in or around MD)
Rustymopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 02:20 PM   #2
Mopar Lover
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,354
Thanks: 0
Thanked 317 Times in 312 Posts
Mostly stock I would set it around 10 deg before as a starting point..
TVLynn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 04:04 PM   #3
Mopar Lover
 
67 GTX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Posts: 6,198
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
What do you have the timing set at now?
Do you have the vacuum advance connected?
__________________
1967 Plymouth Belvedere GTX 440/4-Speed/Dana 60
67 GTX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2011, 08:24 PM   #4
Mopar Lover
 
Silverick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,171
Thanks: 4
Thanked 33 Times in 33 Posts
The first thing that I would do is replace the condenser in the distributor. I have had them go bad and I have had brand new 'out of the box' condensers that were bad.

Years ago, my first Fury, 383, would start and idle just fine but, when I'd try to put a load on it, it would break up and cut out. Had me baffled as everything was new. I chased it down and it was the 'brand new' condenser.
Silverick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2011, 08:16 AM   #5
Mopar Fan
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The points are gapped at .015. Timing is about 15 deg btdc. A buddy timed it to this with vacuum advance plugged up. I may try the condenser since it's only a couple bucks.
__________________
69 Superbee - Hemi Orange, 383 4sp white stripe white interior (on a rotisserie, no rust looking for a body shop in or around MD)
Rustymopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2011, 03:42 PM   #6
Mopar Lover
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,424
Thanks: 1
Thanked 246 Times in 240 Posts
If this is a single point dist. Take a GOOD look if possible with a scope or good dwell meter to look for dist. shaft/ bushing wear.

If not, wiggle the shaft when the points are open and see "what you can see."

The vacuum advance (if used) changes the dwell/ points gap, and so does RPM and bushing/ shaft wear. This means that at some point (no pun) the points gap may open or close enough that they do not open and close.

I agree, try a different condenser, don't discount the coil may be iffy, and CHECK THE SUPPLY VOLTAGE at the dark blue "run" wire which supplies the top side of the ballast resistor

More and more of these old girls are developing wiring problems, especially the bulkhead connector
440roadrunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2011, 05:20 PM   #7
Mopar Fanatic
 
John Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Rensselaer,New York
Posts: 424
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Get rid of those points, Accel,Petronix,Mallory all make point elimination kits.It's not 1970 anymore.
just my .02 worth, john
__________________
Beer is proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy- Ben Franklin


John Van is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2011, 06:38 AM   #8
Mopar Fan
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I bought the electronic conversion kit. Distributor, ECU and harness. It's supposed to be plug and play. I'm hoping this corrects it Tuesday after work.... I can't wait. Ha
__________________
69 Superbee - Hemi Orange, 383 4sp white stripe white interior (on a rotisserie, no rust looking for a body shop in or around MD)
Rustymopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2011, 06:38 AM
MoparForums
1970 Dodge Challenger




Paid Advertisement
 
 
 
submit to reddit
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1970 Dodge Superbee Rustymopar General Technical Questions 6 06-12-2011 08:10 AM
1970 Dodge Superbee real PLUMB CRAZY 383 car Rustymopar B-Body 0 06-07-2011 06:25 AM
timing question for V8's pipdog69 General Technical Questions 5 01-22-2009 04:20 PM
1970 383 points gap and timing? rick_wa General Discussion 1 07-13-2008 02:27 PM
BB/RB Timing Gear Question 62sportsweep B-Body 7 04-05-2008 08:03 PM


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:17 PM.


Advertising - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Jobs