69Ronrunner

I have a question thats going to sound diffrent. The radiator in my roadrunner is shot, part # 2949053. When i look this # up it comes to a radiator for a 363 ??? is this a type-o ??? The replacements i see have the bottom hose outlet on the oppisite side ??? whrer there 2 diffrent options for the radiators or am i looking at the wrong #

moe7404

find a shop that repairs radiators. so you can keep the org. rad. buying aftermarket parts for a colectter car, for some parts, is not a good idea.

blue 68 gts

Worst idea ive ever heard concerning radiator replacement.

Buy a 3core aluminum radiator and BE DONE. Tons more cooling, no need for extra fans, no need to worry about over heating.

Stock radiators are GARBAGE.

Moparod

Different radiators for different applications- a/c or non a/c, auto vs manual trans, different engines, etc. Aluminum is a fine alternative, that's what I have in my '36 but that may not be what you want if your shooting for originality. If you want to keep it original, any good radiator shop should be able to put your tanks on a new core and get you going...

TVLynn

On the big block the lower outlet can be on either side depending on year of the water pump housing. same with early small blocks

PURPLE HORONET

Had nothing but cooling problems at idle with the cheaper aluminum radiators running clutch fan or electric. I would take a good clean factory rad any day.

blue 68 gts

Then you didn't get one that fit your application. I blew up two stock A body radiators in my car.

Put a 3 core aluminum radiator in 3 years ago and have ZERO over heating issues with it. And thats sitting in traffic on a hot day or hot lapping at the track. Highest it's ever seen is 210. Fair driving its always 190. Only running a 7 blade fan. No electric fan.


Factory radiators are garbage, unless you have a recored C body radiator. Which wont fit in alot of cars.

PURPLE HORONET

Never had a problem with a re-core in a A-body. I have never stuck a aluminum one in a A-body either.

Bone stock 71 Charger 400 with a Mopar clutch fan aluminum rad with stroud. Ran 180 all day going down the road at idle 210.

70 Chevelle 454 BB2 heads 5spd all roller aluminum rad with dual electric fans in shroud. 180 all day going down the road 210-220 sitting still not very long after driving. Was scarded to sit in any major traffic.

69 Camaro 383 small cam 4spd single big electric fan with shroud.. 180 all day driving hits 210-215 plus at idle.

2 of the 3 rads were Notherens cant remeber what the other was. I guess thats why some aluminum rads cost 800 and others are under 400. You get what you pay for.

Moparod

That's really strange, I've never ever had a cooling issue with a stock radiator, in big block or small block cars. I had a '68 Charger with a '69 .060 over 440 six pack that would turn high 12's all day long and never once overheated it, with a stone stock radiator, same with my '70 Cuda 340, 11.0's and never had a cooling problem using its original radiator, street or strip.

pro-tech

I never had a problem either with a stock radiator with 50/50 mix. One thing I will note alot of people run with no thermostat,Do not do that it makes the coolant flow to fast throught the radiator and doesn't get cooled. Just run a cold stat and you should be fine with a stock radiator