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Have a question on the carb. My carb has the 2 screws side by side but I was looking online for a video showing the adjustments being done. I know there is all kinds of information on this subject at but is there a video showing how to adjust the carb and both the screws??, A video would be a lot easier for me to follow. My carb seems to be running rich can smell the gas and the rpm's seem off as well. Also my accelerator pedal seems pretty soft as well when pushing on it with foot there seems like there is no resistance at all just goes flat to the floor Seems like when I had the trans rebuilt in the vehicle it is acting weird now things are off. Ruff idle. Carb running rich and the pedal pretty much just flats out. But the trans is doing
great shifts very smooth now in all gears. I was able to find this. Thank You.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sw4B4AAYAnQ
Looks like the left one is Curb Idle
And the one on the right is Choke fast Idle...
Sound like the return spring my have left town on you?
I have owned the Aspen a few years now but have never really messed with the carb at all, It has pretty much always ran a little rich out the pipes, When messing with it I always pull it out of the garage because the gas fumes will knock you out. I bought the car like this I didn't take anything off of it. I figured some pictures would help others to explain to me how I should properly adjust the carb or what I am missing on the intake or carb so that I can make the proper adjustments. These pictures are the current setup. Carb is in need of adjustments badly looks like. There is also ports capped off in the front as well as in the back instead of having the correct hose lines routed which I have no idea where they even go.. I think the return springs are there though?? Are they in the right place?? Because of the current carb setup now I always also half to pump on the accel several times to get it to start of course I assume because of the choke not being adjusted properly. Maybe others have pictures of the same carb that I can compare with to fix and adjust mine. Thank You
I am still needing help with the accelerator pedal it still just goes to the floor without much pressure being applied by my foot. I have looked everywhere everything appears to be there and hooked up. The vehicle shifts in all gears easy and the vehicle shifts smoothly when driving it, The transmission is doing a good job with that as far as I can tell. In the first picture that I have posted there is a metal bead cable, Should I try to remove the slack out of it ?? Does that have anything to do with the accelerator pedal itself?? I am pretty sure the pedal needs to
be a little stiff not completely loose. My plan one day is to rebuild the carb or get another one, But till then I am just trying to keep the vehicle running as smooth as possible. I have more time then money, My Doctor Bills are killing me. Pedal worked better before I had the Transmission rebuilt but trying to avoid taking it back to them, My speedo works good and the transmission shifts good it is just the pedal needs to be adjusted, I looked online trying to find a video on it, I did not see anything. I have never messed are adjusted a linkage so I have no clue how to adjust it and I am worried if I try to adjust it I will screw it up not knowing what I am doing. Any advice would be appreciated.
Man ole Man. Took the Aspen for a road trip today looks like my carb is about shot. Had to adjust the curb idle screw all the way in just to keep the vehicle running just at idle,. It would always stall when applying the brake at a complete stop today, Had to restart and feather the throttle a little to keep the vehicle running without stalling on me. When I back the curb idle screw all the way out and just give it 2 complete turns back in it sounds great but the carb wont run this way at all, 3 turns in is my max setting to the stop looks like. I know in one of the pics there is a missing rod and spring ( Choke Thermostat ) that operates the choke I assume this is why the previous owner has the choke all the way open because the thermostat is missing. Need advice on it folks since I am not a carb guy. Not many Mopar mechanics where I live makes owning a old dodge challenging these days just for tuning anything. Thank You
The brown Carb return Spring is in the rite place... Only thing you can do to make the pedal stiffer is to replace the spring wit a more tighter one.... Dose not look like anything the trans shop messed up.
Not sure why your carb Idle went away?
My guess," beside what you said about the carb just giving up the ghost" would be that there is a Vacuum lea that developed from a gasket, loose or cracked vacuum hose or if the car has power brakes the booster diaphragm may be leaking?
Not sure why your carb Idle went away?
My guess," beside what you said about the carb just giving up the ghost" would be that there is a Vacuum lea that developed from a gasket, loose or cracked vacuum hose or if the car has power brakes the booster diaphragm may be leaking?
Adjust, Stall, More Adjust, More Stall, Adjusted:
Looks like I am back in business finally.. I adjusted the Air and Fuel fixture I turned them all the way back in not to tight and then backed them out 3 turns with the engine warm and idling engine did not stall and is idling much better then it was no obvious smoke are strong gas fumes as far as I can tell from the pipes. Backed the curb idle screw out all the way then turned it back in 2 turns only resting on the stop, Idle sounds good its purring. I don't own a gauge so made the best adjustment by ear only. Took it out it did pretty good, Did not stall at
all, It feels like I have a small cam in there now at a stop or at a stop light lol This will half to work for now till I can either rebuild the one I have or buy a new one down the road. I will watch my gas millage and vehicle performance over the next few days driving it and see what happens. Where is a diagram where all the hoses attach to the carb and the location where they should all be hooked up to online?? The ones that are capped off on my carb by the previous owner really need to be hooked up too. Hopefully the idle stays this way. Not sure what factory calls for are the manual but is the best adjustment and sweet spot I could find by ear and it took awhile for me to find it on this carb. Thank You
Check the Auto Zone Site... I think they have some.
So the Problem was The Idle Air fuel adjustment? Wow why did that go all caddy-whamp'us on you? You didn't touch it as far as I remember?
Maybe the Gremlins did it... LOL
I still think your maybe fighting a vacuum leak, the adjustment you made to the carb my just be compinstating?
Check the Auto Zone Site... I think they have some.
So the Problem was The Idle Air fuel adjustment? Wow why did that go all caddy-whamp'us on you? You didn't touch it as far as I remember?
Maybe the Gremlins did it... LOL
I still think your maybe fighting a vacuum leak, the adjustment you made to the carb my just be compinstating?
Before I got sick I was in the process of making plans to have the 225 and trans both rebuilt and was going to prep and paint the engine bay and replace all old parts on the 225 Slant with all new parts, Well I got sick and the hospital bills came so that dream never happen, But at least I was able to have the transmission rebuilt, So I guess something is always better then nothing at all, Is how I look at it anyways.
Carb Air and fuel mixture and Idle:
Well I assume every carb will have a different Air and fuel mixture setting based on what is missing on the carb. I may be wrong but it is my understanding that Air and fuel mixture mainly work for idle and when your driving say under 40 mph and affects your gas mileage mainly I could be wrong I think I read this somewhere if I recall. Yes I turned the Air and fuel mixture screws all the way in and set both of them at 3 out far as I can tell I smell no gas from the pipes anymore and when I put my foot on the brake now and shift the trans into say Reverse or Neutral or Drive there is no stall and it idles good. I am not sure how many turns your Air and fuel mixtures should be adjusted to on a carter 2BBL or 225 but it seems like these settings worked on this old carb for me. What should the Air and fuel mixtures be on a carter carb?? I Assume it varies based on many factors?? Oh I am sure there are leaks for one is the carb base gasket it looks dried up. There are ports on the carb that are plugged and capped off that should be routed to there proper place as well. I also need the carb thermostat that is missing from the intake that attaches to the carb choke, I am not sure but even the EGR may be defective as well. The choke currently is open all the way. Manual is different that is for sure, Every time I want to start the vehicle I always half to pump the pedal several times to get it to start, Yeah I know why don't I have a electric choke on there that's a good question. I also need to check the timing but have not I don't own a timing light presently.
Acceleration Pedal:
There is one thing that I am concerned about on the accelerating part though and I could be wrong but it feels like my kickdown linkage is not adjusted properly, The reason I say that the trans shifts 1 2 and 3 perfectly and right on the money on the gauge I see it in the dash and feel it in the pedal with my foot but if I floor the pedal there seems to be no power for passing. I took the vehicle out on the interstate today first time ever since owning the vehicle and man I thought I was going to get ran over everyone was passing me and the vehicle felt like it had no power even with the pedal floored. What are signs that the kickdown linkage is not working correctly or as it should?? Or is that another story in itself. I use to know and remember things a lot better then I do these days, I find myself asking more questions all the time because things slip off my mind all the time now and they have since being sick. I just try to relearn myself and listen to others these days since I cant always remember. Thank You
The throttle cable my have starched? You can take up some of the adjustment out under the hood. Just loosen the cable mount and pull it downward and retighten the fastener and see if that helps.
The check to see if it is getting full throttle.
The throttle cable my have starched? You can take up some of the adjustment out under the hood. Just loosen the cable mount and pull it downward and retighten the fastener and see if that helps.
The check to see if it is getting full throttle.
Haven't been very well, I have been wearing a heart monitor to read my heart now, Go figure. Anyways with the Aspen pulled out of my garage in open air I messed with the carb adjustments a little more today. Seated lightly both the 2 Air and Fuel mixture screws and backed them out 1 1/2 turns and started the vehicle, Why the vehicle was idling I was listening for the highest vacuum that I could hear by ear on both mixture screws both seemed to pair up at a adjustment of just 2 1/2 turns out only, after that I rev the throttle a few times. Took the Aspen down the road for a test drive. I know the idle mixture screws really have nothing to do with performance they are pretty much used for idling purposes, I had to adjust them again because the day before I started the vehicle in my garage and there were obvious signs of to much of a fuel smell out the pipes. Anyways not sure if 2 1/2 is really good enough
but by ear was the best I could get. Here soon I will adjust them better with a vacuum Gauge to be more precise with the highest vacuum I can get. I assume with this 225 being the original engine in this vehicle I am looking for readings anywhere from 14 to 20 Is considered a healthy engine of course depending on the vacuum gauge and what the timing is set at of course and other things. I have not checked the timing so really have no clue on that yet. I don't own a meter to see what my idle is setting on I assume it should be around 750-800 I just adjust it by how it feels when I put the vehicle in gear. If it jerks then I assume the idle is to much. If it CLUNKS smoothly into gear then I assume idle is good, Is how I test it anyways. Yeah I know I am old fashion and a back woods mechanic. Hey lets be honest aren't we all really lol
I think I will just get a carb kit and just rebuild it I am sure it could use a rebuild, The carb base gasket is pretty dry rotted and I am sure the other carb gaskets are just as bad. Would it be better just to buy a new one??. If I can find a new carter I will buy one, Not interested in changing anything that is not original myself, I know there are better carbs then a carter but would like to keep it a stock carb myself. Would like to find a stock bolt on.
Hope you get to feeling better...
2-1/2 turn should be ok. Todays fuels require more fuel at idle than we where use too in the past for our rule of thumbs..
At least your keeping busy doing something each day.... Good on you man !!!! Cheers
Hope it is okay to ask this here. As we know I have a 1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe 225/3.7. When I bought this vehicle years ago many of the rubber vacuum line were disconnected from the vehicle such as the carb and in the engines bay. I am trying to find the correct routing of the lines and where they all go on this vehicle from factory specs?? The breather has ports where there should be vacuum hoses and there are none hooked up to the breather at all If anyone has a Aspen and knows the correct routing diagram for this vehicle please post a picture for me so that I can try and route the hoses. Thought I would ask this instead of posting many pictures of my engine bay instead.
Carbs plugged with rubber hoses with screws in them simply doesn't work for me, Everything should always be kept original and factory unless it has been modified and my vehicle has not been. My carb being rigged up doesn't work for me, As far as I can tell it is a carter 2 barrel. In advance. Thank You
Hope you get to feeling better...
2-1/2 turn should be ok. Todays fuels require more fuel at idle than we where use too in the past for our rule of thumbs..
At least your keeping busy doing something each day.... Good on you man !!!! Cheers
It has been very difficult for me to do much of anything these days. They have placed me on 100% disability because of my health. I am living the best that I can, I am always in a lot of pain these days. Sometimes I just sit in the garage in a chair sometimes wondering how am I suppose to do all these things that I need to do, You know the honey dos and chores. I just do what I can one day at a time. I appreciate you being thoughtful it means more then you know sir.
Have that carb Air and Fuel mixture screws still at 2 1/2 turns out and the idle screw set at 3 turns, I smell a little rich at the pipes and the vehicle has a little shake to it at idle but when I put it in gear it doesn't stall so guess best I can get by ear without a vacuum gauge. Will see if I can get the highest vacuum again when I have a gauge. The thing that concerns me though when I accel the pedal seems like I have no vehicle power but the trans shifts good, Pedal seems like it has a little hesitation in it from the start?? I know its a slant and not a V8 but I am pretty sure there should be more get up and go from the engine then what I have now. Any ideas or advices?? Thank You
Today I had to adjust the Air and Fuel fixture screws to 3 turns out instead of 2 1/2 it ran a lot better, I could feel the throttle response in the pedal a lot better. Yeah I will half to check the timing just to make sure cause there feels like a little vibration. I am so use to owning V8's rather then a 6 its amazing what a difference just to cylinders can make. Yeah pretty sure there should be a little more power in the pedal then what I have now, I have never set timing on a slant six but will figure it out, Not a lot of room there to turn but will check it. I will also check the plugs and see how they look since I have been tinkering with the rich and lean. Thank You
I finally got a vacuum gauge and set the Air and Fuel mixture screws correctly for the highest vacuum I could get on the gauge at the manifold port, Ended up with both screws set at 2 complete turns out only. The question I have now how do I set the timing on this 225 Slant Six with just the vacuum gauge too?? What should the timing be?? I forgot how to set timing. I don't have a timing light at the moment a friend borrowed it and still has not returned it. I know the timing is off a little I can just feel it if you know what I mean. Other then that the vehicle is running pretty good for a complete stock 225 3.7. My health is still not great but hey trying to do a little in the man cave today you know Always appreciate the advice guys. Thank You
Update:
Found this article below online, Here is a picture of the gauge I have presently. When I set those Air and Fuel mixture screws I had a steady needle of vacuum at the bottom the line before number 30. That would be 28 looks like, Does that even sound right?? I loosen the bolt to the distributor and turned the distributor as far as it would go to the left which was not much I could hear the rpm go up a little and if I turn it to the right engine almost stalls out, I could only turn each way what felt like by hand maybe 1 inch either way when I turned the distributor. I am getting the same reading as the Air and Fuel mixture screws which is 28 looks like with this vacuum gauge. Is this gauge even working correctly??
Ignition Timing:
After the carb mixture is set, you can proceed with the ignition timing. Slacken the distributor clamp bolt, and with the engine still at idle, advance or retard the ignition until the highest steady vacuum reading is obtained. Then retard the timing until the vacuum gauge reading drops slightly, approximately one half to one inch. In some cases, you may need to retard the timing up to two inches to prevent pre-igniton (pinging).
Note: If you can't get the reading into the "normal" zone by adjusting the distributor then valve timing is the problem. Timing with a vacuum gauge will normally result in timing that is more advanced than what specifications call for, so you need to be alert for any pre-ignition (pinging) in the engine and adjust accordingly (retard the timing if needed).
Your engine should now be tuned to perfection. Vacuum Gauge Needle Readings - Explained Steady needle: Normal reading (usually 17-22" Hg. in stock engines). Race engines vary "a lot" and in most cases will be considerably less. Intermittent fluctuation at idle: Ignition miss, sticking valves, hyd lifter bleeding off, or just a BIG camshaft. Low, but steady reading: Late timing, incorrect valve timing, low compression, sticking throttle valve, carb or manifold vacuum leak. Drifting needle: Improper carb setting or minor vacuum leak (adjust carb). Fluctuating needle, as RPM increases: Ignition miss, blown head gasket, leaking valve or weak or broken valve spring. Steady, but needle drops regularly: Burnt or leaking valve, or incorrect valve setting. (needle will fall when bad valve operates). Gradual drop at idle: Clogged exhaust, excessive back-pressureing with Vacuum (in extreme cases the engine will die at idle). Excessive vibration that steadies as RPM increases: Worn valve guides.
You should be reading the inner scale of the gauge.... 0-20"
If you are reading 11". then that means the timing is late / retarded, or the engine has another underlined issue.
From the sounds of what I read (Providing i understood it correctly) you would need to advance the timing more. and see what you come up with?
Most of those on the timing side with a timing light would be somewhere between 0-6* BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) Approximately.
I reconnected the vacuum gauge today to one of the tit ports connected to the manifold, Blimp the throttle a few times after reconnecting and connecting the vacuum for the possible highest vacuum I could get and Yeppers Mr. Bob looks like there is in fact " late ignition timing " according to both pictures today, This would explain why the vehicle has limited performance when driving it for so long now. So again today I loosen the bolt just enough to try to turn the distributor either way, and disconnected the hose to the vacuum advance and plugged it with a screw, turning the distributor toward the radiator the engine seems to stall, if I turn it toward the firewall the rpm feathers out and the vehicle idles well, But it is still showing as you said in the previous post just at 11 at idle for highest vacuum. With the distributor bolt loosen I can only seem to turn the distributor just a little either way still. I need the proper procedure for trying to set and fix this timing, I have looked online but to be honest it is so confusing to me guys,
Some post on the internet say use a vacuum gauge and then some post say use a timing gun. I do not have a advance timing gun on hand all I have is this vacuum gauge at the moment and to be honest I have forgot how to set timing on any kind of vehicle including my motor cycles and mowers and my trucks for that matter, I have severe memory loss on how to do most things these days guys, Tumors will do that to you, I am sure it is obvious and shows, I am sorry for that but I refuse to let me being sick stop me from trying anything and doing and or learning it, If I don't do anything in the man cave I will simply die, I cant sit in a chair for the rest of my life it is not who I am, so is there no way to fix this timing by just using the vacuum gauge??, I do remember in the old days my old man use to only use a gauge for highest vacuum and it always worked just find for him. I am just trying to fix this timing on the vehicle before I burn up the valves or mess something else up in it and as always Thank You Guys.
First: I think I would try a better hose. Looks like that hose may be collapsing? and giving a false reading?
A timing light is always a good way to check your timing. I would leave it at the max and see how it starts and drives at this point....
Reclocking the distributor may be a quit a task at this point?
The vacuum gauge hose is okay it is just a thinner hose. Today used a timing gun to check the timing, the timing was way off. Best I could get out of the vehicle with the current carb on it that isn't great I was able to get the timing at 14-14 1/2 @ 1200 RPM at idle and when I put it in gear foot on brake it drops at idle 10-11 @ 600 RPM, Took it for a spin in town for a little while still acts like it wants to stall at a stop but it hasn't, I assume this isn't the best setting and I know it isn't factory for the timing but is the best setting I can get out of it presently seems like even though that is a little to much at idle for the RPM still, But then again the carb needs to either be rebuilt or replaced with another one badly. Vehicle seems to run fair in its current state better then it has in a long time now, Maybe she will be
okay like this, Maybe I will change the plugs and wires here soon to I am sure it needs it and the oil too, The vehicle is completely stocked and as far as I can tell seems to be mostly all old original parts wise. There is a lot I want to do to this aspen god willing but you know how it goes those darn Doctor Bills just keep getting in the way, Oh and we cant forget about Uncle Sam too, He seems to always love picking at our pockets one way or the other. I have looked online I cant seem to find a diagram that shows where all the carb hoses should go. My carb has several ports just plugged without any lines going to them, Was like this way back when I bought the vehicle, Sure wish I would of had a son when I was younger to do all this work for me
What did the time light say? How many degrees? When you adjusted it as far advanced as you could? You need to get that set in order to complete any of the other adjustments.
That Vacuum read may not be all that bad for an old worn out engine !!! Lets try to get a tune on it before we deem it junk....
I half to order another timing light. I disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it, Was able to get the vacuum to 17 Hg and left it at that. Got the Air and Fuel mixture screws at highest vacuum which was 2 1/2 turns out from being lightly seated. Well check everything when have a timing light and go from there.
Sounds like a plan.... Give it a drive and see how it feels now?
Getting closer and looks better...
Well took it for a drive, Seems to run fair considering the carb does need to be either rebuilt or need to buy a new one down the road. Doesn't feel like a V-8 are anything but I did not hear or notice anything wrong worse at idle or when driving it, It ran decent. With the way gas prices are getting gonna watch my gauge and see how the gas does in it in regards to the Air and Fuel mixture screws being out 2 1/2 also but was the best vacuum I could seem obtain with just a vacuum gauge, If I tried 1 1/2 or 2 turns out vacuum would drop so like I said
left those screws at 2 1/2.
Starts good, Idles good and vacuum timing at 17 Hg and the screws at 2 1/2 out. I assume a vacuum of 17 Hg is decent for a vehicle that is stock and
all of the engine being at 44 years old??,Think I read anywhere from 17-22 Hg is good vacuum. I am at 17 Hg so gonna leave it at that for awhile and observe it closely, Think before it was at 13 or 14 Hg, This time I just kept going back and fourth, start it, check it, and adjust it over and over again to obtain this reading, The accel does seem better then before. Had a few beers before hand so that my patience would be a little better this time with tuning lol, It may not be perfect still by any means. but it is better then it was. When timing light gets here will check the timing and see where it is at
What is your idle RPM?
It should be around 600 or so.
It was a little higher then that, Am at about 600 RPM now. Checked that timing again with vacuum gauge still at 17 Hg, Was out there tweaking to see if I could get a little more out of it with just this gauge. Disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it, Turned the distributor as far as it would go, Checked vacuum gauge was able to get a little more vacuum out of it at 18 Hg now. Tighten distributor back down, Turned the Air and Fuel mixture screws out another half turn now at 3 turns out and vacuum holding at 18 Hg highest vacuum. Rechecked timing still at 18 Hg. Took it for a spin what a difference just a little more vacuum can do, May be just a little bit but wow, Runs pretty good, Throttle response seems better. I am still waiting on timing light to go from there. Stopped at Wally World Murphy's dropped $10 bucks in it drove home which is about 15 miles gas needle still seems alright.
09-04-2021, 06:35 PM
