Carburetor on 72 Charger with a 318
 

I need to replace my carburetor on my 72 Charger SE, automatic, with a 318.
She currently has a 2 barrel Carter AFB which we tried to have rebuilt. The mechanic said it had been modified and is leaking fuel. Since the carburetor was rebuilt the car sputters and the carb puts out puffs of smoke and leaks fuel. We are considering replacing with a Street 500 cfm 2-bbl Carburetor Holley 2300 Series. Is this an appropriate replacement for my engine? Will it fit or require an adapter plate? If it requires an adapter plate, which one? Is there a better option for a 2 barrel carburetor. I'm new at this and my mechanic isn't a Mopar expert so any help/ suggestions will be greatly appreciated.:o

Charlie -

Unless you're looking for a factory, numbers matching car, why stay with a 2V? The right size 4V might even give you better mileage, if you don't have a heavy foot, since most of the time you'll be running off of the smaller primaries.

While you can use an adapter plate to get the 4V carb to fit on the 2V manifold, but good dual plane aluminum manifolds aren't that expensive, and it's a pretty simple swap. There are choices from Edlebrock and Holley for both the carb and manifold.

and welcome to the forum!

Archer

Carburetor
 

Matching numbers is something I would like to keep as much as possible. However, I also need to the least expensive route right now and try to improve gas mileage if possible. She is a daily driver. You can use a 4 barrel with an adapter plate without changing the intake? Will a Holley 2 barrel fit without an adapter plate?

The Carter and Holly 2bbl carbs have different mounting so an adapter would be necessary.
Your current carb is a BBD? series?/ You should be able to purchase a rebuilt outright from many of the vendors
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php 119.99 +30 core

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Thank you for the link. It is very helpful. The Carter 2bbl, bbd matches mine. I added an image of the stamp. I like the price. My mechanic was pushing for a Holley. Would that be a better move to help improve my gas mileage? If I go with the Holley, which adapter plate do I need. Its not clear which one is appropriate for the dodge engine. The distance between the mounting bolts is 3.5 inches and 2 inches.

https://moparforums.com/forums/membe...s-replaced.jpg

Holley carb is not a fix all... An adapter & linkage adapter will cost $25 ? plus the cost of the Holley $300

who modified the carb was it you was it the previous owner how do you know it was modified maybe the mechanic cant rebuild carbs or he ordered the wrong rebuild kit these carbs are to easy to rebuild you got like 3 main gaskets
base to bowl bowl to top and accelerator pump nozzle plate other than that nothing else maybe he has the float wrong or he never replaced the float or the air fuel screws are not adjusted right maybe he lost the jets or the enrichment/power valve springs did he put the rods back in i've seen allot of screw ups such as this you know he will make more money if he sells you a new holly and all the parts to make it work than a simple rebuild on a simple carb like the 2bbl AFB i would be suspicious :naughty:

The Holley mounting plate is much bigger and a hassle to adapt, I honestly think it is a bad idea. I have 2 BDD's here I would give you one if you were close. If you were set on the holley 2 barrel best would be 4 barrel manifold and adapter.

If you go on any Mopar forum and ask you'll get one very easily, most any guy who has one will give it to help a fellow Mopar lover. Where are you?

I used a Holley 500 cfm on a slant 6 with the alum 2 bbl intake , best move I could have made , the Holley is tunable as all the tuning parts are still available & the same as the 4bbl , it will take some modification to make it work but works well

I'm located in Florida. We bought the car a couple of years ago in Texas for my son. All the modifications had been done by a previous owner. I have my suspicions but I am also aware that the wiring was seriously jacked up by someone before we purchased it so it's not unrealistic for the carburetor to be modified. However, I'm also thinking along the lines of more work means more expense. The mechanic called me and said the company that makes the adapters said they don't make one for my engine for a Holley 2 bbl. He found me a used Edelbrock intake for $120 and a new 4 bbl Edelbrock carburetor. It is a very heavy car and this is supposed to help improve my gas mileage. I wish I would have sought out the Mopar forums before I started this project. I really appreciate all the input.

I am a member of other forums and this one will suit your needs with the car you have and what direction it sounds like your going. If your having electrical problems ask any questions and I promise you'll get the answers here.

An edelbrock carb and intake would be a great addition. If you are going for mileage ? a 500 cfm carb or 600 cfm max Make sure it is a dual plane intake manifold. Use the 2bbl intake gaskets to match the heads.

Places like Year One you can get new wiring harnesses

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This is the intake we are going to install. The carburetor is a 4bbl 600 cfm Edelbrock. After I recover from this upgrade, new tires, wiring harness, headliner and carpet are on my wish list. I'm also looking for a replacement fender for the front driver's side. It was damaged when my son ran over a tree that had fallen across the road during a storm one night. She's a 72 and I was told that was the only year her fender was made. Any leads on a quality replacement will also be appreciated. I'll pose that question on another thread. I just want to make the right moves concerning the engine.

The sap should work ok , you will need a linkage adapter for the eddy carb so the throttle cable & kickdown hook up properly , the carb is about my least favorite from a tuning standpoint it will work .
They are no reproduced 72 fenders availabel & yes the 72 is 1 year only , the 71 fits but has a different side light . 73 & 74 the glass is taller & the body line is lower

Thanks for the tip on the difference in the fenders. That will be very helpful. Will post some pics of the new carb after its installed.

My saga continues. We replaced the intake and the carburetor as above. Now the distributor isn't working. A previous owner had replaced the stock distributor with a Pertronix. The halls effect switch shorted out. What are the best/ most cost effective options.

get a mopar performance p3690426. best deal in town.

Or do an HEI ignition.

pertronix are crap, i went through three of em. :smash:
i use Mallory, now no problems.:clap:

[QUOTE=Chryco Psycho;93723]The sap should work ok , you will need a linkage adapter for the eddy carb so the throttle cable & kickdown hook up properly , the carb is about my least favorite from a tuning standpoint it will work .



What don't you like about them? is it because you don' have to drain the float bowls every time you want a jet change or power valve change or if the temp. drops and u want to richen it up you got to drain the fuel bowl?
i use to run holly for years. not any more.
The edelbrock avs is too simple to tune once the jets are set i carry two sets of rods one richer one leaner and i can do a rod change +or- in a minute. don't have to drain the fuel if i want to change the power valve, i don't have to drain the fuel bowl, and if i want to change jets, i don't have to drain the fuel bowl. no power valve to replace just springs under the rods what a easy carb to tune! oh and vac secondary verses AVS secondary no comparison!
just food for thought.
charlie72 check out my thread tuning my avs.

Where to start , there is almost nothing to tune , the throttle sensitivity is poor , if you want to change squirters to try to eliminate the bog you have to buy 3 squirters small medium already in the carb & large & only 3 positions for the pump arm .BY comparison you have 7 cam with 2 positions each & 12 different squirters available . Float levels can be adjusted with the engine running on holly type carbs , fuel pressure affect float level so you could be too high or low with eddy & no adjustment available while running . There are air bleeds in the Eddy for the idle & jet circuit but no accessabilty to change or access to adjust for varying vacuum at idle & running settings where all the new carbs have replacable air bleeds now . Yes you can change sprngs under the metering rods to adjust to engine vacuum but you cannot go down to 1" like you can with the Holley PV , also you cannot block the PV for racing in the Eddy .
The list goes on but there really is limited adjustment if you desire to tune the carb as far as possible to make it work 100%

if we are racing for tenths here ok maybe, but..tuning is still more involved than the eddy like i said i owned and still have all my hollies,
for the street i find im having greater and faster results with it. If i where racing for tenths maybe, but the ease of accessing what is needed quickly is more important on the street than at the strip and charlie72 has a great street carb quickly tune able.
down here in Florida today it can be 87 at 3pm. and at 6pm it can be 50 with 80 to 90 percent humidity and let me tell you. you will want to rich-en up you mix quickly!, or i might go to SUNOCO and tank up and have to lean her out just to end up at the end of the evening after tanking up with citgo having to rich-en her up all over again manual fuel injection eh,
or i need to drive her in traffic all day in 102 heat wave/ 90 percent humidly day after day. but at the end of the night head over to grudge match at the local 1/4 mile and need more fuel.
and as far as throttle sensitivity she is very smooth through traffic i can putts with the rest of the 4ord cylinder's
and the accel pump is more than enough on the street when im in traffic on that 102 heat wave i move it to a leaner point and at the strip i move it up a point or two
and we have all enlarged our nozzles with out purchasing new having desired results, i still got my machinists set of wire bits, so increments of three are just fine.
and the enrichment circuit power springs i found one step down and no problems.
this carb is tun-able for the street
if im going to run a 3000rpm idling pro-stock then i'm going to have to tune the holly and we know what that means
And we still know to use your...combo to its fullest true Bushido.
We have all modified our hollies!

a 2 bbl CANT be a AFB. AFB stands for Aluminum FOUR Barrel, and is used by Carter only. if the engine is close to stock, use the chrysler STOCK carb. why is that hard to under stand?

Ok i stand corrected.
what is the two bbl carb called i have em and i know what it takes to rebuild them.
maybe the name i'm looking for is rochester.

2BBL Carter designated as BBD for years,,
Both carbs, Holley and Edelbrock have there own advantages !!!!
Even the Thermoquad was a good carb you could tune the 800 CFM to pur like a kitten on a 318. The factory Holleys were always a problem because of engine heat, no insulator was used. Back in the day it was popular to use the Carter AVS carb as a replacement. If you use a Holley today USE a heat insulator gasket !!
Either one Depends on the end use as to which is better

On the road again!
 

We went the Edelbrock Performance Intake (purchased used), an Edelbrock 4bbl 600 cfm carburetor, a Mallory Unilite distributor, and Spectre Air Cleaner Assembly. Charlie is back on the road and sounding awesome. May tweak the carburetor a little more.

i have done some BBD, and found that the stock float setting is the only setting to use, 1/4. inch. allso the two bolts in the back do NOT over tighten them, get them just snug, else you get warped castings. of course you did make sure the castings are flat, didnt you?