64Imperial

thanks for the information i think ill keep with the stock gears and 3.55s would be too much for this much torque i think anyways. so basically these suckers short shift thats why the 0-60 sucks? im not wanting 0-60 in like 4 seconds i just want to feel the car pull when i get on it is all. my current 413 doesnt do that at all i barley feel it when i stomp it. this engine might be in worse shape then i thought if your supposed to feel anything when you put your foot to it with a stock 413

I will admit anywhere i drive this car i get everyone looking at it. most people dont even know what it is. people ask all the time, one guy thought it was some european car i was like europe with a bigblock 10 miles a gallon yeah right lol they would go broke with their $6/gal gas

soon as this engine is completed should be done in the next 8 weeks or so. i WILL be entering car shows with it. the previous owner put it in our big car show they have like 3000 cars there over 3-4 days that the show runs he entered this car how it sits and placed 3rd in its class. might not been many of this class there but this car is solid. only rust is little bubbles under paint in one spot and the fenders a little bit but if you knock on the rust spots its still solid. car is complete with everything except the "death" jack, and paint has its shipped spots but not faded could use a waxing. and the vynal top i cleaned it on one corner with dish soap and water and it literally looks brand new it has no cracks in it or nothing either. all chrome is chrome none of it has any rust on it anywhere even the bumpers are perfect. i feel like i got a steal deal on it, i took pics of the car sent them to my car insurance they insured it 10,200 just from the pics full coverage for classic car insurance $9.67 / month

red67

heres my idea. 1. 3.23 rear gear. 2. stock extmaniflods. duel pipes. 3. go to this O.E.M. cam list, http://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/cam/gk.html. use the 1964-65 non-ram cam. .430 lift. 268 degrees 4, stock AFB carb, the 1967 A.F.B. is a little better. the cam i listed is very streetable. on a 65 413 it put out 20 H.P. more than a stock new yourker. and will do 16.00 sec in a totaly stock 4,200 lb, 300 L.

demetri

The transmissions shifted a bit too early, and also, more often than not, the carburetors were not completely opening. Which reminds me, yours may not be fully opening too. Have somebody mush the throttle with the engine off and look down there with a flash light. Open the top flaps of the secondaries (assuming you have an AFB or AVS carburetor) and make sure the secondaries fully open. Other option is install a vacuum gage and see if it goes to near zero when you are on it.

Also, a correction on my prior numbers. The stock converter was not 2200 rpm, was 2.2 stall ratio. What that means is that on a low speed acceleration, the input of the converter may be doing 2.2 times more rpm than the output (and a similar torque multiplication). But when the output of the converter is still (car stopped), the max rpm may be much less than 2200. My converter is 2.0 stall ratio, but when I hold the car with the brakes and rev the engine, all I get is 1600 rpm. And of course, the whole car twists and tires trying to spin. So, yours may be 1800. You can test it, all you need is a running engine and a tach. Do it with the transmission warm.

You have one more option for gearing reduction. You can put lower profile tires. You can use a 225/60R15 or even 14. The downside is that your ride quality and road silence will deteriorate. But the benefit is that this is cheaper and easy to reverse.

64Imperial

learning all this means i have to run an even more mild cam in it. 1800 stall is kind of small. that means i probably can use the cam that I got from from a guy yesterday for free he gave me 906 heads and everything free he pulled them off his engine he didnt run it very long, he decided to change his build here is the cam link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr.../make/chrysler

pretty sure this wont work with a 1800 stall

comp cams website says:

1800-5600RPM
Good mid range torque and HP,good idle,daily performance usage,mild bracket
racing,3000-3400 cruise
RPM,9.5 to 10.75 compression ratio advised. Also mild
supercharged

got this cam still new with lifters all labled so they go in correct placement for free from a guy

Seeing this guy saved me a ton of money maybe i should see about doing what ever this artical is talking about. i know nothing about transmissions so its Chinese to me. maybe you make sense of it? This would allow me to buy a torque converter from a later model thats shelf ready rather than what i have now thats totally out of the question not available. i feel liek this article is missing alot of info on what to switch out unless its just cause i dont understand the pictures and know what the parts are?
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmi...que-converter/

wonder what a transmission shop would charge to do this & if id need to find a 727 donor or if the parts they are using are able to be bought. the 906 heads the guy gave me are ready to install and 100% complete that saves me like $800 of getting my smaller heads done, i could use this money to change my transmission.