BIG TIME SWAP
10-27-2012, 06:31 AM
#31
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
Ok yesterday i worked on the top brace and the cross member, i cant use the original mount so im making one from scratch, i still have lots to do on it, but i installed it temporary to get an idea of how its going to set, i have to raise the trany/tail, about 2 inches and i got to box out the mount to increase its strength but today we got other things to do so until Monday. 
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 04:49 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Gorts 5th (10-27-2012)
10-27-2012, 12:29 PM
#33
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
Thank you im still working on it going to reinforce it with more steel, im going to box the mount and i need to raise the tail shaft about an inch too two inches.
Also i just had to put this picture of my nefuew working his bo staff his father and I, esspecialy have been training him and his older brother but Evan 5 is the natural he beats up on his older brother Alexander 10 i love them both but fore sure, Clark Do Bushido will carry on.
Also i just had to put this picture of my nefuew working his bo staff his father and I, esspecialy have been training him and his older brother but Evan 5 is the natural he beats up on his older brother Alexander 10 i love them both but fore sure, Clark Do Bushido will carry on.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 04:51 AM.
10-29-2012, 07:22 PM
#34
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
ATF+4 this is what i found out on trany fluid so this is what im going to fill it with.
When you change your transmission fluid, always use the recommended fluid. (1989-91 owners, ignore the manual and use ATF+4).
Don't assume your mechanic or dealer knows what fluid to use. Ask them to make sure. (Some people recommend watching the mechanic pour it in. We have been told about mechanics who said they were using ATF+4 when they were not.)
All Chrysler (and Honda and Toyota) four-speed and six-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use ATF+4 in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.
Some companies sell "universal" fluids; if they state that they are compatible with ATF+4®, they should work, and can be helpful for those unsure of which fluid to use. The Center for Quality Assurance warned us to check the label for Chrysler’s license number, and to make sure the fluid is on their list of ATF+4® licensed and tested fluids.
When you change your transmission fluid, always use the recommended fluid. (1989-91 owners, ignore the manual and use ATF+4).
Don't assume your mechanic or dealer knows what fluid to use. Ask them to make sure. (Some people recommend watching the mechanic pour it in. We have been told about mechanics who said they were using ATF+4 when they were not.)
All Chrysler (and Honda and Toyota) four-speed and six-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use ATF+4 in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.
Some companies sell "universal" fluids; if they state that they are compatible with ATF+4®, they should work, and can be helpful for those unsure of which fluid to use. The Center for Quality Assurance warned us to check the label for Chrysler’s license number, and to make sure the fluid is on their list of ATF+4® licensed and tested fluids.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 04:51 AM.
10-30-2012, 05:30 AM
#36
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
No, no numbers yet.
t
Today i'm finishing off the new cooler lines; 5/16, had to bend them my self and some last modifications on the trany mount and install the new drive shaft, which i picked up yesterday total cost $205.00 and wire up the relays and switches.
the tec at "advanced driveline" said that the drive shaft was bent/slightly twisted he assured me this one will hold up look at the size of those universal joints beefy.
Maybe today i will get her on the road for sure tomorrow, i'm excited and got my fingers crossed all is well inside the trany shes been sitting for about 4 yrs but looked very clean inside as earlier photos showed.
t
Today i'm finishing off the new cooler lines; 5/16, had to bend them my self and some last modifications on the trany mount and install the new drive shaft, which i picked up yesterday total cost $205.00 and wire up the relays and switches.
the tec at "advanced driveline" said that the drive shaft was bent/slightly twisted he assured me this one will hold up look at the size of those universal joints beefy.
Maybe today i will get her on the road for sure tomorrow, i'm excited and got my fingers crossed all is well inside the trany shes been sitting for about 4 yrs but looked very clean inside as earlier photos showed.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 04:55 AM.
10-30-2012, 04:34 PM
#37
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
ALRIGHT... i got her off the stands and took her for a test drive and she worked fine, i modified the mount boxed it to increase its strength. finished running the cooler lines, and hooked up the trany cooler then took her for a test drive. She shifted really fast but not hard, I built the relay panel but i didn't finish the hook up, i will do that tomorrow tonight my brother and i are out to test drive it to a friends house.:driving:
Let u all know how she worked tomorrow.
Let u all know how she worked tomorrow.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 05:00 AM.
10-31-2012, 06:20 AM
#38
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
First test drive was great!
The 2000 rpm stall is perrrrfffect!
The engine loves the rear 3.91 gear ratio, i haven't done any really hard full throttle runs yet.
i need to get a longer speed o cable, i got a lead from the "Farley Diplomat forum" where i found the swap post from another mopar brother, hes the earlier pics., at least i got cruise control so i wont have to dismantle the dash to install the cable. So i'm running around with a new combo /gear ratio and its difficult to judge your speed, i usually know it by sound but sound doesn't count any more. my brother calculated that 1700 rpm was 30-35 mpr and 2000 is 40-45 mph the city run to our friends house is 40 45 mph. :drinking:
opcorn:
On the way home about 11:30 pm the air was 40 and damp, she really loves the cold wet air, all of our mopars do, I was really tempted to do a full throttle run, but need to proceed slowly since this is the first time i've manufactured a mount of this type would hate to break it and drop the rear of the trany on the ground that would cause all types of problems.
My first impression is the ride geometry has changed, she s different bad or good im not sure yet?
the trany to rear end aliment was the most crucial in this set up, we may need to use shims for the rear springs we ran a straight edge down the drive shaft assembly to get a close set up, also used a angle finder at the tail shaft and rear yoke; with a 1 degree angle we got it very close to aline.
The emergency brake cable is installed but i got to drill two holes in the mount to support the s hooks, and that ll function as before.
the kick down is in need of adjustment, i'm opting out for making one out of a choke cable and dump the solid linkage, i need to mash the peddle to the floor and get my kick down.
The b&m shifter is just a little out also, goes into park but the gear/shifter detentes are a little off.
When i added the trany fluid on the original fill up she was up on stands and i put 5 qts in and started her in wat i thought was neutral, the trany started spinning, i found neutral and finished topping her off. the trany took 11 1/2 qts. of ATF+4. at almost $3.00 and some change a qt.
Had to tighten up the cooler line at the rear of the trany, and at the union, but all's well no leaks, also got a big trany cooler out front.
The neutral safety switch is hooked up but its not working i have to jump it at the firewall starter relay.
ANY INPUT HERE WOULD BE APPRECIATED ?
We live off a gravel/ recycled as-fault private road and its sure hard not to ssppiinn the rear wheels.
to day i will get under her to see whats going on see if the mount is holding up, and check the cooler lines.
Then wire up the overdrive and lock up and work on the neutral safety switch issue, by all rights it should work who knows we'll figure it out.
right my mopar brothers?
The 2000 rpm stall is perrrrfffect!
The engine loves the rear 3.91 gear ratio, i haven't done any really hard full throttle runs yet.
i need to get a longer speed o cable, i got a lead from the "Farley Diplomat forum" where i found the swap post from another mopar brother, hes the earlier pics., at least i got cruise control so i wont have to dismantle the dash to install the cable. So i'm running around with a new combo /gear ratio and its difficult to judge your speed, i usually know it by sound but sound doesn't count any more. my brother calculated that 1700 rpm was 30-35 mpr and 2000 is 40-45 mph the city run to our friends house is 40 45 mph. :drinking:
opcorn:On the way home about 11:30 pm the air was 40 and damp, she really loves the cold wet air, all of our mopars do, I was really tempted to do a full throttle run, but need to proceed slowly since this is the first time i've manufactured a mount of this type would hate to break it and drop the rear of the trany on the ground that would cause all types of problems.
My first impression is the ride geometry has changed, she s different bad or good im not sure yet?
the trany to rear end aliment was the most crucial in this set up, we may need to use shims for the rear springs we ran a straight edge down the drive shaft assembly to get a close set up, also used a angle finder at the tail shaft and rear yoke; with a 1 degree angle we got it very close to aline.
The emergency brake cable is installed but i got to drill two holes in the mount to support the s hooks, and that ll function as before.
the kick down is in need of adjustment, i'm opting out for making one out of a choke cable and dump the solid linkage, i need to mash the peddle to the floor and get my kick down.
The b&m shifter is just a little out also, goes into park but the gear/shifter detentes are a little off.
When i added the trany fluid on the original fill up she was up on stands and i put 5 qts in and started her in wat i thought was neutral, the trany started spinning, i found neutral and finished topping her off. the trany took 11 1/2 qts. of ATF+4. at almost $3.00 and some change a qt.
Had to tighten up the cooler line at the rear of the trany, and at the union, but all's well no leaks, also got a big trany cooler out front.
The neutral safety switch is hooked up but its not working i have to jump it at the firewall starter relay.
ANY INPUT HERE WOULD BE APPRECIATED ?
We live off a gravel/ recycled as-fault private road and its sure hard not to ssppiinn the rear wheels.
to day i will get under her to see whats going on see if the mount is holding up, and check the cooler lines.
Then wire up the overdrive and lock up and work on the neutral safety switch issue, by all rights it should work who knows we'll figure it out.
right my mopar brothers?
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 05:14 AM.
10-31-2012, 07:34 AM
#39
Nice Job!!!!!!!!
Looks great....smart thinking not romping on her until you do some test runs....looks 
proof to me...obviously you know your way around a car or 2 so I'm sure its fine....
Is that a (just in case) safety cable running under her in the pic I looked at? (kinda looks like it) Good thinking....cant wait to hear about the final results...and what the "seat of your pants feeling" is in her from 0-60 
proof to me...obviously you know your way around a car or 2 so I'm sure its fine....Is that a (just in case) safety cable running under her in the pic I looked at? (kinda looks like it) Good thinking
....cant wait to hear about the final results...and what the "seat of your pants feeling" is in her from 0-60
10-31-2012, 07:39 AM
#40
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
If we had to guess about 4, 4.5 sec, she moves out effortlessly.
In answer to your question that's the emergency brake cable in the photo.
In answer to your question that's the emergency brake cable in the photo.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 05:15 AM.
11-01-2012, 03:04 PM
#41
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
OK I guess the swap is done.
This morning i jacked her up and checked the trany mount, it was good. i finished wiring up the over drive and lockup.
i found out why she wasn't starting it wasn't the neutral safety switch its the ignition switch, i had to play with it then she fired up i guess i will replace it. i don't remember though if the contacts are in the ignition switch or if they are lower down the column in there own box?
i found the speedometer cable 3.99 at the local auto parts store will hook it up tomorrow.
The first test run ran her down the back roads and flipped the switch, and bang kinda hard overdrive engage, then i engaged the lock up, nice.
Got to the end turned around headed back, engaged the over drive and firm not a bang, pulled up in the drive way and check the fluid added a 1/2 qt then took her out on the main road, this is great runs as good as i hoped, all the hard work paid off. i love this new combo;
318, 518, 3.91, 2000 factory stall.
As soon as my bro and i can get to the strip we will post 1/4 mile times.
Hope this thread will help others in their retro /mod..and
I WANT TO THANK THE FOLLOWING......................................... ..................
TVLynn ,MrOldart2U ,oldiebutgoodie, bremereric, 67hemidart and Mr.4spd
FOR ALL YOUR ENCOURAGING AND INPUT IT HELPED THANK YOU THANK YOU .)
This morning i jacked her up and checked the trany mount, it was good. i finished wiring up the over drive and lockup.
i found out why she wasn't starting it wasn't the neutral safety switch its the ignition switch, i had to play with it then she fired up i guess i will replace it. i don't remember though if the contacts are in the ignition switch or if they are lower down the column in there own box?
i found the speedometer cable 3.99 at the local auto parts store will hook it up tomorrow.
The first test run ran her down the back roads and flipped the switch, and bang kinda hard overdrive engage, then i engaged the lock up, nice.
Got to the end turned around headed back, engaged the over drive and firm not a bang, pulled up in the drive way and check the fluid added a 1/2 qt then took her out on the main road, this is great runs as good as i hoped, all the hard work paid off. i love this new combo;
318, 518, 3.91, 2000 factory stall.
As soon as my bro and i can get to the strip we will post 1/4 mile times.
Hope this thread will help others in their retro /mod..and
I WANT TO THANK THE FOLLOWING......................................... ..................
TVLynn ,MrOldart2U ,oldiebutgoodie, bremereric, 67hemidart and Mr.4spd
FOR ALL YOUR ENCOURAGING AND INPUT IT HELPED THANK YOU THANK YOU .)
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 05:19 AM.
11-01-2012, 07:26 PM
#42
OK I guess the swap is done
love this new combo
318 518 3.91 2000 factory stall
I WANT TO THANK THE FOLLOWING......................................... ..................
TVLynn ,MrOldart2U ,oldiebutgoodie, bremereric, 67hemidart and Mr.4spd
FOR ALL YOUR ENCOURAGING AND INPUT IT HELPED THANK YOU THANK YOU .
love this new combo
318 518 3.91 2000 factory stall
I WANT TO THANK THE FOLLOWING......................................... ..................
TVLynn ,MrOldart2U ,oldiebutgoodie, bremereric, 67hemidart and Mr.4spd
FOR ALL YOUR ENCOURAGING AND INPUT IT HELPED THANK YOU THANK YOU .
) Im Glad I could at least encourage you along the way....
The following users liked this post:
Gorts 5th (11-02-2012)
11-07-2012, 05:20 PM
#43
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
Ok i have done a almost full throttle run, and all seems to be holding up fine my brother and i are trying to set aside time this Saturday for the drag strip to get some et's, we will see what happens its quite a drive from here.
One thing i noticed since the swap is the handling characteristic's or handling geometry of the car is flatter and more level the ride has changed, must be the extra weight of the trany at the rear that has moved the weight balance more to the rear.
i like it.
i need to pick up the speedo cable first and i still need the new speedo gear for the trany to compensate for the 3.91 gear, i believe i can get this from tci transmissions.
Also i was thinking on installing an electric fuel pump from MR. gasket they are sold in the local parts stores here and are inexpensive $50 -$70 bucks instead of one of the other s at $150 to $200,
Has anyone here ever used them?
The reason i'm doing this is my fuel is draining back into the tank after it sits for a few hours or over night.
One thing i noticed since the swap is the handling characteristic's or handling geometry of the car is flatter and more level the ride has changed, must be the extra weight of the trany at the rear that has moved the weight balance more to the rear.
i like it.
i need to pick up the speedo cable first and i still need the new speedo gear for the trany to compensate for the 3.91 gear, i believe i can get this from tci transmissions.
Also i was thinking on installing an electric fuel pump from MR. gasket they are sold in the local parts stores here and are inexpensive $50 -$70 bucks instead of one of the other s at $150 to $200,
Has anyone here ever used them?
The reason i'm doing this is my fuel is draining back into the tank after it sits for a few hours or over night.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 11-10-2012 at 05:23 AM. Reason: all edited for accuracy
11-15-2012, 07:58 AM
#44
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
i've done several full throttle runs "back road" 6000 rpm and the mount is as strong as ever looks like this work payed off i'm still waiting for the speedo cable to come and the speedo gear in the mail i hope the cable works, then i won't feel so sketchy about driving her long distances.
11-20-2012, 12:23 PM
#45
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
nice page lead you gave me on this, "PACT"
got all the parts found needed to finish up this swap:
PACT has the three pin pigtail connector and the 37 tooth speedo gear
#12DG2. Early type with long shaft, used with 1966 up cable driven speedometers. (Also fits Dana 300 Jeep transfer case, except early type with screw-in speedometer housing.) (Out of stock on 30 and 39 tooth gears.) Cost $39.00.
#79M. 518, three wire Pigtail connector for overdrive and lock-up. Cost $20.00
some other items i'm thinking of adding to the order:
#3A4. New Dodge 4 Ring Billet Aluminum Accumulator Piston. Fits 46RH/RE / 47RH/RE / 48RE / 518 / 618 / 500 / 727 / 904. OE plastic accumulators are prone to breaking and have poor sealing qualities. Metal rings currently offered with aftermarket accumulators have issues with sealing as well. PATC now offers a dual seal accumulator piston with 2 Teflon and 2 D-rings. The Teflon seal will prevent piston to bore contact and the D-ring seal will vastly improve sealing compared to steel rings currently offered by the aftermarket. Introductory Price Cost $39.00
√ #518RED16. Sonnax Dodge 16% Oversize Intermediate Super Servo, Cover and Pin. Fits 727, 46RE, 47RE, 48RE, 518, 618, 46RH and 47RH. New eight sealing ring design for a super seal. Fifteen percent less leakage than the original servo. The overall result is more holding force in 2nd, firmer 1-2 and 2-3 shifts that become firmer under load.$73.00 each
everything is proceeding fine.
got all the parts found needed to finish up this swap:
PACT has the three pin pigtail connector and the 37 tooth speedo gear
#12DG2. Early type with long shaft, used with 1966 up cable driven speedometers. (Also fits Dana 300 Jeep transfer case, except early type with screw-in speedometer housing.) (Out of stock on 30 and 39 tooth gears.) Cost $39.00.
#79M. 518, three wire Pigtail connector for overdrive and lock-up. Cost $20.00
some other items i'm thinking of adding to the order:
#3A4. New Dodge 4 Ring Billet Aluminum Accumulator Piston. Fits 46RH/RE / 47RH/RE / 48RE / 518 / 618 / 500 / 727 / 904. OE plastic accumulators are prone to breaking and have poor sealing qualities. Metal rings currently offered with aftermarket accumulators have issues with sealing as well. PATC now offers a dual seal accumulator piston with 2 Teflon and 2 D-rings. The Teflon seal will prevent piston to bore contact and the D-ring seal will vastly improve sealing compared to steel rings currently offered by the aftermarket. Introductory Price Cost $39.00
√ #518RED16. Sonnax Dodge 16% Oversize Intermediate Super Servo, Cover and Pin. Fits 727, 46RE, 47RE, 48RE, 518, 618, 46RH and 47RH. New eight sealing ring design for a super seal. Fifteen percent less leakage than the original servo. The overall result is more holding force in 2nd, firmer 1-2 and 2-3 shifts that become firmer under load.$73.00 each
everything is proceeding fine.
11-26-2012, 07:39 PM
#48
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
ok i made my order from pact
#618S. 500 / 518 / 618 performance 3-4 accumulator spring. This spring will give you a firm 3-4 shift into overdrive. Cost $7.00
√ #3A4. New Dodge 4 Ring Billet Aluminum Accumulator Piston. Fits 46RH/RE / 47RH/RE / 48RE / 518 / 618 / 500 / 727 / 904. OE plastic accumulators are prone to breaking and have poor sealing qualities. Metal rings currently offered with aftermarket accumulators have issues with sealing as well. PATC now offers a dual seal accumulator piston with 2 Teflon and 2 D-rings. The Teflon seal will prevent piston to bore contact and the D-ring seal will vastly improve sealing compared to steel rings currently offered by the aftermarket. Introductory Price Cost $39.00
#79M. 518, three wire Pigtail connector for overdrive and lock-up. Cost $20.00
#12DG2. Early type with long shaft, used with 1966 up cable driven speedometers. (Also fits Dana 300 Jeep transfer case, except early type with screw-in speedometer housing.) (Out of stock on 30 and 39 tooth gears.) Cost $39.00. i needed 47 teeth.
4020. This speedometer cable is 63 inches long and screws on at both ends. Cost $39.00
because the plastic push on speedo gear insert sucks i got a cast one from an older 727 way better. i will post a picture later
#618S. 500 / 518 / 618 performance 3-4 accumulator spring. This spring will give you a firm 3-4 shift into overdrive. Cost $7.00
√ #3A4. New Dodge 4 Ring Billet Aluminum Accumulator Piston. Fits 46RH/RE / 47RH/RE / 48RE / 518 / 618 / 500 / 727 / 904. OE plastic accumulators are prone to breaking and have poor sealing qualities. Metal rings currently offered with aftermarket accumulators have issues with sealing as well. PATC now offers a dual seal accumulator piston with 2 Teflon and 2 D-rings. The Teflon seal will prevent piston to bore contact and the D-ring seal will vastly improve sealing compared to steel rings currently offered by the aftermarket. Introductory Price Cost $39.00
#79M. 518, three wire Pigtail connector for overdrive and lock-up. Cost $20.00
#12DG2. Early type with long shaft, used with 1966 up cable driven speedometers. (Also fits Dana 300 Jeep transfer case, except early type with screw-in speedometer housing.) (Out of stock on 30 and 39 tooth gears.) Cost $39.00. i needed 47 teeth.
4020. This speedometer cable is 63 inches long and screws on at both ends. Cost $39.00
because the plastic push on speedo gear insert sucks i got a cast one from an older 727 way better. i will post a picture later
12-01-2012, 06:17 AM
#49
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
it's really nice having a speedo working again my speedo is nearly correct i received a 38 tooth, suppose if i ever go back to 235"s i will be solid. but i got a reference
Thursday night...
The high way was really good she cruised, "traffic conditions" 60-65 2000-2200 no overdrive in-gauged,
Friday went to do a estimate mostly city driving but she runs good used allot of the lockup. she has no problem moving into traffic right turns are a breeze don't be sleeping and think i wont take a space i caught a few unsuspecting drivers you know the one's they have just enough room between them self's and the car in front of them to keep those modern ford cylinders from merging.
i love the engine pitch the sound of her in all those gears is music! i don't think i will ever put a sound system in her.
Thursday night...
The high way was really good she cruised, "traffic conditions" 60-65 2000-2200 no overdrive in-gauged,
Friday went to do a estimate mostly city driving but she runs good used allot of the lockup. she has no problem moving into traffic right turns are a breeze don't be sleeping and think i wont take a space i caught a few unsuspecting drivers you know the one's they have just enough room between them self's and the car in front of them to keep those modern ford cylinders from merging.
i love the engine pitch the sound of her in all those gears is music! i don't think i will ever put a sound system in her.
01-13-2013, 05:56 AM
#50
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
Quick up date...
That 518 is a reliable trany i recommend doing it.
i have a mild performance rebuild for my 518, with a 3.91 gear set my 318 eats up the rpm's fast way faster than any motor i've had to date.
it's not the trany i'm afraid of breaking it's a universal joint
and as far as cruising it's perfect through town she cruises at 2000-2500 and the motor is so smooth i don't realize shes spinning at 3000 with the lock up that gives me a extra 800 rpm and any thing above 45 i can use the OD.
And the od is so fast and solid on the shift, i find myself shifting in and out of it allot.
And cruising down the highway 55-75 shes only turning 2200 2700 with out the LU, my brother did a calculation say's the car's top end should be around 160-170 depending on tire size..
It's perfect the motor is always running in her power band.
That 518 is a reliable trany i recommend doing it.
i have a mild performance rebuild for my 518, with a 3.91 gear set my 318 eats up the rpm's fast way faster than any motor i've had to date.
it's not the trany i'm afraid of breaking it's a universal joint
and as far as cruising it's perfect through town she cruises at 2000-2500 and the motor is so smooth i don't realize shes spinning at 3000 with the lock up that gives me a extra 800 rpm and any thing above 45 i can use the OD.
And the od is so fast and solid on the shift, i find myself shifting in and out of it allot.
And cruising down the highway 55-75 shes only turning 2200 2700 with out the LU, my brother did a calculation say's the car's top end should be around 160-170 depending on tire size..
It's perfect the motor is always running in her power band.
09-01-2014, 07:10 AM
#51
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
Its been over a year and the swap is great .
i have a new project... rear end its leaking at the pinoin and small oil stain in left axel end.
im also looking at a Sparten locker.
i want to attemt the rebuild myself
dcc 5249444 anyone use this kit ?
and rmg8310311 .
any input would be appericiated
i have a new project... rear end its leaking at the pinoin and small oil stain in left axel end.
im also looking at a Sparten locker.
i want to attemt the rebuild myself
dcc 5249444 anyone use this kit ?
and rmg8310311 .
any input would be appericiated
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78pwrwagon440
Transmissions, Transfer Cases and Rear Ends
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08-02-2012 12:26 PM
