6V+gnd to 12V-gnd

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Old 03-08-2016, 04:21 PM
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6V+gnd to 12V-gnd

If I am correct, the 1952 New Yorker was a 6v positive ground system. If I plan to drop in a 70's 440, it will have to be fed 12v, negative ground. Powering the exterior lights shouldn't be a big problem since I'll probably have to run new wires and sockets anyway, so those can be new 12v stuff. However, if I want to run the original radio and maybe try to figure out how to get the gauges working, will a basic 12v to 6v convert do the trick? What about the positive vs negative ground?

Thanks,
Dave
Old 03-08-2016, 06:35 PM
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I think you have to build both system to be independent from each other....
Old 03-09-2016, 08:08 AM
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Here, generally is "the deal" on 12V / 6V

Many items "don't care" about polarity

Older "wound field" motors dont, such as the starter, heater blower, wipers. If you retain the heater / wipers in 6V, you'll need resistors for them. There isn't just "one" resistor, as the amount depends on the load. You need to run them on 8V, and measure amp draw, and figure what you need for resistance

Gauges, use "Runtz" regulators. Google them. The gauges may or may not be polarity sensitive. Most Mopar gauges are "hot wire" gauges, and are not polarity sensitive.

Ammeter if you don't get to crazy on a huge alternator, you can just reverse all the wires to the ammeter. Actually, even if you added a big alternator sometimes you can use a bigger shunt across the ammeter

So far as the radio, "it depends." Frankly, you are WAY WAY better off to abandon it or have it converted to something, which is expensive, or save it for posterity.

"But if you must" the deal is...........it depends on the circuit inside the radio.

First, you LIKELY need to find someone to replace the filter caps (capacitors) which are half a century old, as well as a few others, which would have been "paper" caps.

Second, there are a couple of ways the thing can be wired for the vibrator power supply, and some ways are polarity sensitive, and some ways are not.

Another problem is that the radio draws CONSIDERABLE current, and you will NOT want to operate it from a dropping resistor.

There's a couple of avenues.....one is to scare up 12V filament tubes and replace the 6V ones, but you still will have to modify the vibrator power supply somehow for 12V. This, again, gets dicey.

You CAN buy 12V batteries with a 6V tap, and for something that you won't operate very often this might be an option, but you STILL must modify the radio if necessary, to allow for reversed polarity. Again, this simply depends on the radio and the circuit.

In the back of my mind, it SEEMS like I've seen a 12V to 6V inverter. This is a power supply just like a 12 to 120V AC inverter, except that it's designed to provide 6V output. These are a "switching" power supply, similar to something like your laptop or mobile device. You will need to operate the radio on 7--8V and measure the draw, to determine the needs. This is going to be a bit expensive.

I'm an old guy. I was first licensed as a radio amateur in high school in 66. I spent 6 years in Navy electronics, and have been "in and out" of electronics all my life. I WOULD NOT screw with this. I would find a compact modern solid state unit to your liking, and hide it in the glove box, and leave the old one for appearance.

With today's units having stuff like blue tooth and USB memory sticks, you can get "a lot of sound" in a small box.

Last edited by DDodger; 03-09-2016 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DDodger
Here, generally is "the deal" on 12V / 6V

Many items "don't care" about polarity

Older "wound field" motors dont, such as the starter, heater blower, wipers. If you retain the heater / wipers in 6V, you'll need resistors for them. There isn't just "one" resistor, as the amount depends on the load. You need to run them on 8V, and measure amp draw, and figure what you need for resistance

Gauges, use "Runtz" regulators. Google them. The gauges may or may not be polarity sensitive. Most Mopar gauges are "hot wire" gauges, and are not polarity sensitive.

Ammeter if you don't get to crazy on a huge alternator, you can just reverse all the wires to the ammeter. Actually, even if you added a big alternator sometimes you can use a bigger shunt across the ammeter

So far as the radio, "it depends." Frankly, you are WAY WAY better off to abandon it or have it converted to something, which is expensive, or save it for posterity.

"But if you must" the deal is...........it depends on the circuit inside the radio.

First, you LIKELY need to find someone to replace the filter caps (capacitors) which are half a century old, as well as a few others, which would have been "paper" caps.

Second, there are a couple of ways the thing can be wired for the vibrator power supply, and some ways are polarity sensitive, and some ways are not.

Another problem is that the radio draws CONSIDERABLE current, and you will NOT want to operate it from a dropping resistor.

There's a couple of avenues.....one is to scare up 12V filament tubes and replace the 6V ones, but you still will have to modify the vibrator power supply somehow for 12V. This, again, gets dicey.

You CAN buy 12V batteries with a 6V tap, and for something that you won't operate very often this might be an option, but you STILL must modify the radio if necessary, to allow for reversed polarity. Again, this simply depends on the radio and the circuit.

In the back of my mind, it SEEMS like I've seen a 12V to 6V inverter. This is a power supply just like a 12 to 120V AC inverter, except that it's designed to provide 6V output. These are a "switching" power supply, similar to something like your laptop or mobile device. You will need to operate the radio on 7--8V and measure the draw, to determine the needs. This is going to be a bit expensive.

I'm an old guy. I was first licensed as a radio amateur in high school in 66. I spent 6 years in Navy electronics, and have been "in and out" of electronics all my life. I WOULD NOT screw with this. I would find a compact modern solid state unit to your liking, and hide it in the glove box, and leave the old one for appearance.

With today's units having stuff like blue tooth and USB memory sticks, you can get "a lot of sound" in a small box.


Awesome.....
Old 03-09-2016, 04:02 PM
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Bump
Old 03-09-2016, 04:26 PM
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DDoger - thanks for that detailed info. Given all that, simply connecting a 6v battery to the radio might be the easiest?

Dave
Old 03-10-2016, 10:19 AM
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"Might be" LOL. Of course it will be somewhat low in voltage but would work for part of a day, at least.

Frankly, again, if I were in your shoes, and wanted to retain the original "look" I'd just hide a more modern system in the glove box (or somewhere) There are LOTS of options esp. with bluetooth, etc type stuff, remote control heads, etc.

Plus, all you will have is AM radio.
Old 03-10-2016, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DDodger
"Might be" LOL. Of course it will be somewhat low in voltage but would work for part of a day, at least.

Frankly, again, if I were in your shoes, and wanted to retain the original "look" I'd just hide a more modern system in the glove box (or somewhere) There are LOTS of options esp. with bluetooth, etc type stuff, remote control heads, etc.

Plus, all you will have is AM radio.
That is the way to go.
Old 03-11-2016, 08:51 AM
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IMHO. i would not run an ampmeter. a volt meter will tell you way more. an ampmeter cant tell when your voltage is low.
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