72 360 duster,no fire....
12-23-2011, 05:54 AM
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72 360 duster,no fire....
Hi everyone.Here's my issue.72duster with a 86d250 drivetrain.360/727.I got the car by trade from a friend.I sold him the motor a year ago so im familiar with it.He gave up on the car cause it wouldn't make any fire.What im wondering is this.I can't find a harness anywhere for the neutral saftey switch.I know the motors isn't grounded as well.The ground I get but the nss could it be my issue?I have a 74 powerwagon that is my daily driver and Ive borrowed the coil and ballast resistor from him to rule these out.Any ideas are appreciated thanks
12-23-2011, 08:44 AM
#2
First, do you have a shop manual and or wiring diagram?
You can download one posted over at A bodies
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...al%2C+download
So far as the "engine ground" that's easy to fix. The battery main cable should be grounded to the engine block, because that is where the heavy current for the starter flows.
Install AT LEAST a no10 (marginal) jumper from the battery to the fender, or from engine block to firewall.
A good way to do this, is buy a 1 foot long no4 "starter" (eye to eye) cable. Use the unused bolt hole(s) on the rear of the driver side head, and either bolt to the firewall, or bolt to the lower bolt on the master cylinder
Next, the NSS only controls whether the car will crank
Here is how Mopar igntion switches work
An ignition switch in reality is SEVERAL switches in one enclosure
You have the acessories switch, which is on in "run" or "accessory" and feeds the fuse box power for all accessories such as radio, wiper, heater
You have "ignition run" otherwise known as "IGN 1" which is on ONLY in the run position. This is traditionally DARK BLUE, and feeds the instrument cluster, and goes out through the bulkhead connector to the "key side" of the ballast resistor.
You have the "start" switch, traditionally YELLOW which ONLY is hot in start and ONLY goes out the bulkhead connector to the start relay.
On older "stick" cars the relay is grounded and the yellow engages the start relay, which engages the starter solenoid
On auto or newer stick cars with a clutch safety switch, there is a 4th terminal (push on) on the relay, which goes to GROUND only in park/ neutral, or when the clutch pedal is depressed, thus allowing the relay to engage
NEXT you have "ignition bypass" or "IGN 2". This is again, a separate switch in the ignition switch which is hot ONLY in start and ONLY feeds out on a traditionally BROWN wire through the bulkhead to the coil+ side of the ballast
"IN start" then, this brown feeds hot battery voltage to the coil +
THE POINT IS that if there is something wrong with the ignition bypass circuit, the car will not fire, because the "run" is NOT hot during crank
Don't guess and throw parts at the problem Look over the diagram, check out what you have
You can download one posted over at A bodies
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...al%2C+download
So far as the "engine ground" that's easy to fix. The battery main cable should be grounded to the engine block, because that is where the heavy current for the starter flows.
Install AT LEAST a no10 (marginal) jumper from the battery to the fender, or from engine block to firewall.
A good way to do this, is buy a 1 foot long no4 "starter" (eye to eye) cable. Use the unused bolt hole(s) on the rear of the driver side head, and either bolt to the firewall, or bolt to the lower bolt on the master cylinder
Next, the NSS only controls whether the car will crank
Here is how Mopar igntion switches work
An ignition switch in reality is SEVERAL switches in one enclosure
You have the acessories switch, which is on in "run" or "accessory" and feeds the fuse box power for all accessories such as radio, wiper, heater
You have "ignition run" otherwise known as "IGN 1" which is on ONLY in the run position. This is traditionally DARK BLUE, and feeds the instrument cluster, and goes out through the bulkhead connector to the "key side" of the ballast resistor.
You have the "start" switch, traditionally YELLOW which ONLY is hot in start and ONLY goes out the bulkhead connector to the start relay.
On older "stick" cars the relay is grounded and the yellow engages the start relay, which engages the starter solenoid
On auto or newer stick cars with a clutch safety switch, there is a 4th terminal (push on) on the relay, which goes to GROUND only in park/ neutral, or when the clutch pedal is depressed, thus allowing the relay to engage
NEXT you have "ignition bypass" or "IGN 2". This is again, a separate switch in the ignition switch which is hot ONLY in start and ONLY feeds out on a traditionally BROWN wire through the bulkhead to the coil+ side of the ballast
"IN start" then, this brown feeds hot battery voltage to the coil +
THE POINT IS that if there is something wrong with the ignition bypass circuit, the car will not fire, because the "run" is NOT hot during crank
Don't guess and throw parts at the problem Look over the diagram, check out what you have
12-23-2011, 02:23 PM
#3
Mopar Lover
Here is a good read: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
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