Moparnut1970

Hi Everyone,
I need some advice as I have reached my max patience. I have gotten the original truck I grew up in from my uncle that past away some time ago. He owned a Mopar ONLY shop and taught me my foundation of mechanics. It mean the world to be to get this up and back into its once great condition. Not a restore but just want to use as my daily driver. Before I can move to the cosmetics of the project I want to get the motor and drive train back to a reliable status. That being said here it is: 1985 Dodge W150 360, 727, 4 BBL eldbrock Carb, prefect body no rust just needs repainted due to someone prior horrible buffing job. It was told and appears the motor (360) has less than 10k on it due to a rebuilt many years ago by our Mopar club for him as a gift. The transmission is new and needs some interior work.
The issue:
After sitting for a few years I cleaned up the pine needles and replacing the battery I got it running enough to get to my house. Ran rough as to be expected(old gas). Once I got it to the house I cleaned and rebuilt the carb cause of all the sap and the secondaries were frozen. Then I removed all the old fuel and add 5 gallons of new. I got it started and smoked for a few but after a couple of days of starting, adjusting carb, and letting it warm to temp the smoking has now since gone away. After a couple of days it stopped starting and I realized the carb was getting no gas. My uncle once said he wanted to put on an after mark electric fuel pump. To my surprise I was under the truck and he already installed one. I did check and it was not working. I went a head replace that one and there is a mechanical one as well. Yes I know its over kill I just thought why not be sure both are working. Then I was back on track started and ran like it use to.

Then after about two weeks of starting it occasionally and was being reliable I decide to take it to the gas station to top of the the tank. Of course to get it on the road and see what else we are dealing with. Then it goes south from here.
Two block away it starts to spit and sputter and dies. It would not restart. I was thinking maybe I pushed to far on the amount of fuel in the tank so I added another 5 gallons. Once I turned the key and tried to start it just turned over with no life of trying to start. My boys then notices fuel leaking behind the rear diff. Pushed it back to the house and found a split rubber hose. I figured I would change those out and do a complete Tune up at the same time. So I replace all the rubber lines, New coil, New spark plugs, New spark plug wires, Cap, Rotor, Fuel filter, and even Power steering lines and pump(as they leaked for years prior).

Now I can't get it to even act like it wants to start. After crank for a very short time it smells flooded. So I pulled the plugs and they all were just dripping fuel. Thinking back to the double pumps I then added a fuel pressure regulator to be able to maintain correct pressure. Even after still no change. Smells like fuel with in a few minutes of cranking. I tried a different cap and rotor (even the old one). No change. I check the coil and it is putting out spark, but not as strong as I may like. Its 1/4 max length and Amber in color. I checked it at the plug and same thing. It there but same look. I had a friend say check the compression and the average throughout all cylinders is 132 nothing below 120. So as I read through the forums and see the same thing 1. Spark - Yes 2. Compression - Yes 3. Fuel - Yes
What I have done since:
- I have check ignition module and it tested fine and I think if bad there would be not spark anyways. While doing I cleaned and tighten to be sure to have good ground.
- Check resistor and is good
- I have triple checked the spark plug layout
- I cracked it over and all spark plugs are firing
- The distributor has never moved since I got it in my possession. So the timing should have not changed from the time it ran to the time it wont.
- I disconnected the fuel line and tried straight dump into the carb to see if it was a fuel delivery issue. No change.
- I found TDC and check to see were the rotor is and seems correct.
- Also I removed the breather and can see the rockers turn on a few. I was thinking of taking off the valve covers to inspect, but not sure if needed at this point.

Any advice is much appreciated as if I can't figure this out I will have no choice but to tow it to a shop when I know that I should be able to fix this. This truck means to much and Failure is not an option. Hahahahah...Thanks everyone! Sorry for the length, just trying to cover everything.

RacerHog

Recheck TDC and make sure your good on that..... Check it for ignition at the plugs?
Also Check to make sure you didnt install the fuel hoses the wrong way...
I'm going to guess you just missed something....

Moparnut1970

Thanks Bob, I am going to start form the fuel forward since that is where the no start began. I think I also might disconnect the electric pump and bypass for now. Any thoughts on the double pumps?

Thanks in advance.

Archer

M-

I wouldn't bother with dual pumps, unless there's something about the engine you're not telling us, a decent mechanical pump should be more than enough. Ditto on the fuel regulator.

IF you're sure there's spark, then wet plugs could mean a timing problem. Play with that, and if it changes at all, you're on the right track. If that's the case, then you have to think about the timing chain. If original, the gears were plastic. Might worth checking/replacing.

Archer

RacerHog

I woulds work with one or the other for now... But I would say work with the mechanical for now.... You will get her running... Keep Chipping at it... We are here to help if we can..

SPAMBURGER

Always worth removing the valve covers just to check everything. With it sitting for a while there could have been an issue with valves or lifters sticking and that could cause the timing chain to skip or bend push rods or something like that. They’re easy to remove and gaskets are cheap.